Serious Black

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

I'm goin' straight!!!!! Ok, maybe not straight, but straight ahead. Got the truck aligned today!!!!!! Yeah! I also got my alternator issue resolved, my uncle went through my alternator to verify the work I did, which was fine, with the exception of one screw that holds the brushes and voltage regulator (I had the one screw that was insulated in the wrong spot and the uninsulated one where the other was supposed to be, needless to say, it was grounded, but no more! Charging like a champ now!!!!! I have a few interior pieces to install and swap the memory and power leads for the stereo, and that will be it!!!

I might have to cut down my rear bump stops though, I can feel the bed/chassis bottoming out on big bumps, if that doesn't do it, guess I'll have to do the C notch...... I'll have to clean her up and get some pics outside later tomorrow,
Have a good one!!!
Ben

Sheepdip Happens!

[snipescastle2]

well, as I probably mentioned, my Temp gauge hasn't worked since I got the truck put together and running. I've been chasing this ground for a while now, I found the tin that the gauge attaches to was the culprit. after removing the ammeter and temperature gauges from the cluster, I tested each post/terminal for continuity from the tin it mounts to. I found that I must have over torqued the nuts that secure the gauge to the tin, causing the studs to touch the tin, shorting the gauge to read full hot/pegged out. I took the gauge back apart and wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the top center post/terminal stud, and then put everything back together, this time I was careful not to "Over torque" the nuts, once I fastened everything back into the cluster, turned the key, Bingo! gauge reads cold......glad that is over and done with, now to get it all back together and hit the open road!!! I didn't want to venture too far from the house in the event I had some issues, but I believe we're good to go now.

I still have to attach my head liner. I had the upholstery guy make me a custom headliner to match my seat material, "Black tweed" I had him make a raised "Chevy Bowtie" in the center, he had given me some heavy duty Velcro "Dual Lock" strips, but I don't believe they were enough to hold it up, so I just bought a roll of the stuff, "say's it'll hold 19 pounds" so, that will be another item for this week to get done.
Getting closer all the time!
Have a good one!
Ben

[JJ's Sierra Grande]

so glad to hear you're almost there. truck looks great.

[snipescastle2]

Thank You Sir! I'm getting excited about getting around to driving this beast!!!
Have a good one!!!
Ben

[rgreathouse]

Did you have holes to mount trim? Or how did you mount it? Looks great!

[snipescastle2]

i had to drill most of the holes myself, the truck was originally a "CST" so, some of the trim holes were there. I used the factory assembly manual layout measurements for the rest, that had to be the most nerve wracking thing I've ever done (drilling holes in a brand new paint job) but it worked out great! Thanks!
Ben
Posted via Mobile Device

[snipescastle2]

this weekend, I stripped all of my rally wheels of the factory paint, (sand blasted them) then I powder coated them at my Uncle's shop. They didn't come out as great as I wanted, but no one has a Powder made up that closely resembles GM's "Argent Silver" it's more of a darker hue of silver/grey metallic, but still better shape than what I had.
when I got everything done, and out of the oven, and it had all cooled down over night, I set about mounting and balancing my tires again....well, "Murphy" is a real S.O.B. (Murphy's Law) wouldn't you know it, I get to the very last tire, started to mount the tire and the damn tire machine rips a huge chunk out of the tire bead of my BFG T/A radial......
so, yesterday, I had to spend yet another $300 on two front tires (wanted a matching set) albeit, they aren't T/A radials (Cooper Cobra's) at least I can drive it..... now, if I could only think of an "Acronym" for our trucks that is similar to "BOAT" (Break out another Thousand") the wife is growing ever impatient to my weekly spending on this truck.....perhaps Vanity plates that read "SWMBO" come to mind..... (She Who Must Be Obeyed)

I had some chrome powder coat powder left over and tried to coat two of the rally center caps, since they were pitted pretty well, I figured I had nothing to lose. Well, after I bead blasted them to get them smooth, I'm guessing the zinc/pot metal under the chrome must have "Out gassed" or had a reaction to the powder coat, because it resembled "Wrinkle Paint" around the areas that the chrome was absent from. Needless to say, I need two rally center caps for the rear now...... I'm about two weeks out from Our Company's Car show
(13th of August) trying like hell to "Git Er' done......
It's actually a Fund Raiser event for "Reach" a fund set up to help the companies families during a hardship or catastrophe.....

Looking forward to being there, as well as the all Truck Nationals coming up soon....

Have a good one!
Ben

[Low Elco]

Gettin' there! Excited to see you at the Nats! when you go in, bear to the left, they usually save a spot for us over there.

[rgreathouse]

Gotcha, I'm debating if I want trim or not. So was thinking about leaving it off till after paint then deciding if I want to add. How hard was it? Any tips? Do you worry about rusting from bare metal inside holes?

Thanks

[snipescastle2]

Well, I used the trim nuts with the "Mastic" sealer inside them, I also added a dab of clear silicone sealer to the studs where the passed through the sheet metal. some are clips, you just do the same for those. I found that using 1/4" pin striping tape to layout the trim pieces really helps. my doors and fenders already had the holes drilled, the only exception was the bedsides. I had to drill most all of those. if you mount the fender and door trim first, it makes laying out the outline of the trim for the bed easier, you just take some painters tape and hold the bed trim in place where it aligns with the door trim and cab corner trim. once you have the outline where the trim goes, you remove the trim pieces, take some pin striping tape and layout the center of both outlines, then just mark every 6"-8" (I forget what the book called for) some are closer, some are further, it depends on whether it's a short bed or long bed.

One recommendation though..... I bought my trim through Classic parts, and it looks nice, but those "Counter part" reproduction trim pieces are flimsy/weak.....I bent a few by pushing little too hard to get the clips to snap into the holes. I should have waited and bought the trim kit from "MAR-K"
it's about $250-$300 more, but far more sturdy, and anodized, just like the NOS stuff..... just sayin'
Have a good one!
Ben

[snipescastle2]

Chip,
yeah, I'm doing the old two step shuffle, "five steps forward, ten steps back"
I'll be glad when that's over and done! I wired up my Tahoe automatic dimming rear view mirror with Temp and compass last night, it's the little things you know, that I have left to do.....seems like a lot, but I'm almost there.....
Have a good one!
Ben

[snipescastle2]

I managed to grab a pic of Serious Black's new shoes this morning on my way out the door this morning. the color of the powder coat looks almost spot on in the picture, it's actually darker in person... I scored a complete set of center caps for my rally' wheels off Ebay for $20.00 yesterday Yeah!!! (I only needed two, but for that price, I'll pass the other two onto someone else needing them. If it weren't for the blasted heat this week, I'd be out in the Garage "Turnin' and Burnin' " it was 93F yesterday in my garage, and I was sopping wet with sweat, just wasn't feasible to hang out there for any length of time. sometimes you just can't get a break!!!
well, have a great day!!!
Ben

[snipescastle2]

thought I'd share the "Auto Dimming/ compass/ temperature rear view mirror install link for anyone who might want to try this.
Have a good one!
Ben


http://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to...w-mirror.6902/

[snipescastle2]

well, didn't get much done over the weekend, but I did manage to get some nicer center caps for my rally's. I spent an hour yesterday using some 0000 fine steel wool, polishing the center caps (removing the silver paint) from the outer rim, looks so much nicer without the silver paint

I'm just trying to finish all the little things prior to Saturday's Reach Car show at the Cedar Oaks training facility at our Company. Looking forward to my first show!!! There's another one in Sedalia, MO. on the 10th of Sept. Might have to check that one out also (If the wife will let me take the day off that is)

I had a friend at work make me some emblems for my rally wheels out of the scrap black mother of pearl drum wrap I had left over. I'll have to see how they look once I get home tonight, basically, they are the same size as the original, with the "Bow Tie" cut out.

well, work calls, have a great day!!!
Ben

[snipescastle2]

After fighting my Temperature gauge issues for the last four-five months now,
I finally got it fixed, albeit temporary any way's. Many thanks to "VetteVet" for his time and diligence in helping me find my problem.

In the end, the problem ended up being no power to either the fuel gauge and Temp Gauge. I placed a 12v jumper to both hot terminals of both gauges and they work exactly as they should. VetteVet suggested I may have a small break in the copper foil trace of the circuit board, and that may be, as I don't know my own strength when tightening those tiny nuts on the back of those gauges, I over torqued them and one of the posts grounded causing my temp gauge to go full hot, now, I haven't checked both of the 4 amp buss glass fuses for the gauges as of yet,(the ones in the front light harness inside the black rubber dust boots) my ammeter gauge works,so I thought the fuses wouldn't be the problem, but now that I think about it, when the pin grounded, it could have easily blown one of those tiny fuses. The only other thing it could be, is a pin on the cluster connector isn't making up its connection.

So, for the time being, problem solved(temporarily) at least I can take it to the Companies "Reach Benefit" Fundraiser Car show Saturday! yeah!!!
I'll delve into the PCB trace continuity checks Sunday and report my findings then.
Have a great day!
Ben

[swamp rat]

After reading Vic's thread i thought i'd come here to offer congrats on the award you picked up the other day, much deserved!

[snipescastle2]

Mike,
Thanks for the congrats! There were many high dollar entries and out of 77 managing to place in the top 20 was quite a surprise! Thanks again!
Have a Great Day!
Ben

[Low Elco]

Congratulations, Ben! Little reward for all that hard work.

[snipescastle2]

Hey Chip! Thanks bud! I was very surprised to have gotten that award with all the competition that was present, but hey, I'm lovin' it!!!!
Have a good one!
Ben

[snipescastle2]

okay, the day of the car show, I experienced an unusual noise, something like what you would get "when you have all the lug nuts come loose on a wheel" take in mind, this happened to me once I got off at an exit, turning right. Any way's, I was fearing the worst, pulled into the Quick Trip there on 291 North, across from the Highway Patrol, jacked the front end up fearing my lugs had come loose....nope not it.....checked the rear wheels, nope not it....checked the drive shaft, nope, not it. so now I'm scratching my head trying to figure this one out, thinking it could be my pinion bearing in the rear end, or axle bearings, but I just rebuilt and or replaced all these, without any issues..... so, I babied the truck all the way to the show, and looked everything over pretty well, but couldn't find any smoking gun......

Yesterday (Sunday) I took it to my uncle's shop, put it on the lift, and pretty much confirmed what I already knew, however, my lower control arms were rubbing the inside edge of my wheels when I made wide turns, so I clearance them while I had it on the lift, still had the weird noise though. Drove it home and parked it.
Well, today, I looked again and everything I had checked twice before was fine, but I figured I'd check my front end just for the heck of it, grabbed the steering wheel and gave it a turn, and "Bingo" !!! I found that weird noise I was hearing. as I turned the wheel, I put my flood light on the area under the hood and then, the problem stuck out like a "Sore Thumb" the pinch bolt for the steering shaft to the rag joint was hitting the Emergency brake cable sheath, causing the grinding, ratcheting noise I was hearing.....talk about driving you nuts trying to find something like this.....glad it's over, I drove the truck after I relocated the cable away from the steering shaft just to make sure I had indeed found the problem......Man! am I relieved!!! I thought it was gonna be an expensive repair....... I don't know why this didn't happen before during any of the other trips around town, oh well, it's done and I can get back to enjoying it now!
Here's a picture showing the problem.....
Have a great evening!
Ben

[Low Elco]

HAHAAHAHAAA! Same exact thing happened in Yeller! Weird noise, huh?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

HAHAAHAHAAA! Same exact thing happened in Yeller! Weird noise, huh?

See, that's what you get for not being totally eat up and cutting the excess threads off all your bolts, then facing the ends off the in the lathe. (OK, OK, it's a little bit sick, but somewhat controllable via self medication.)

[snipescastle2]

well, now that the worst is behind me, I can finally get to enjoy this beast....here are a few pics from the show Saturday....
Ben

[Low Elco]

BeddyBeddy nice!

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

See, that's what you get for not being totally eat up and cutting the excess threads off all your bolts, then facing the ends off the in the lathe. (OK, OK, it's a little bit sick, but somewhat controllable via self medication.)

I never mentioned how long it ran around WITHOUT said bolt!