TA_C10: Stage 1

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

I can't edit my old posts.... The button isn't there anymore. I sent a message to both our moderators and one sent message back telling me to start a new thread.... I sent another message to ask if they could open my thread back up so I could edit old posts. No response.... I might have to start a new thread if they don't get back with me. That would really suck.

.

Don't do "a new thread" as there's no need.

Just re-post the post(s) again w/the pics. A simple copy/paste for the text portion minimizes re-typing it all.

[TA_C10]

I thought about that but I need to fix around 15 pages worth of pics....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

I thought about that but I need to fix around 15 pages worth of pics....

In that case, post the pics & put a reference to a specific post number (the one @ the top/right of all posts) that has the data/info.

Like this: Page 32; post 778 & then the images.

[TA_C10]

This is scary....

[Kronald_70GMC]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

This is scary....

There is nothing there to click on

[Kronald_70GMC]

Got it. Wow that is some pretty cool piece of equipment though.

[TA_C10]

Yeah, and I figure the professional thief's probably have access to this type of equipment.... Crazy. Makes me wonder if it's true there are scanners they can use to find GPS trackers in vehicles too. I know there are CELL scanners so my guess is GPS too... Strong signal would indicate the vehicle they are targeting has one installed and they go hunting. Or maybe the scanner is good enough it can locate the device withing inches....


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[TA_C10]

Update - Custom Gas Filler


I really intended to put my gas filler in the bed stake hole at rear drivers side like others have. Having that little pop-up filler looks cool I thought. But then the more I thought about a tonneau cover and sealing that off from rain, then to keep the gas from pooling in hose under bed I would have needed to drill holes and pass gas filler hose through all the bed support rails, and also the electrical that goes inside the bed stake pocket... I just decided to go a different route. I almost decided to go the easy route and install it in the drivers rear wheel well since its a direct shot to the tank. But then I saw a site selling a filler box and liked it a lot. So I built it instead saving me $200. I can't believe how much money some of these guys are making off these simple parts...

This filler is custom but looks little OE. I like that better I think. I started with 16awg sheet and just went to town. No real plan just a tape measure and about 6 hours total of work.






Made a quick brake so I could bend the sheet metal.









I then marked my angle and cut out the side to bend down the top panel to create the 45 degree top panel for filler.









I had to notch the bottom and 2 other places around the box to fit the contours of the bed side bead rolls and wood bed floor flange.





Tacked the top, welded it up, grind down.















Cut hole for gas filler.





Cut hole in bedside inner panel to feed the hose through.











Used a couple of washers, grind down a flat spot, welded them on for moutning tabs to secure to bed stake pocket and floor.







Drilled holes for gas filler cap ring and welded the nuts to back side.

[MDPotter]

Nice work on that gas filler! It's hidden and it lets you use your side fill tank.

I'm learning that a lot of aftermarket products are priced with a convenience factor - the fabricator is the only one out there making a certain product and/or buying it is easier/takes less time than making one or gathering the parts yourself.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Nice work on that gas filler! It's hidden and it lets you use your side fill tank.

I'm learning that a lot of aftermarket products are priced with a convenience factor - the fabricator is the only one out there making a certain product and/or buying it is easier/takes less time than making one or gathering the parts yourself.

x2.

[TA_C10]

Update - Backup Camera

Daily Drivers need backup camera's right? Well I think it's one of those awesome technology advances available in new trucks and I wanted to integrate it on my old truck. Being able to see to park or backup, or to be able to see your trailer hitch for hookup is just plain nice to have. So I started researching backup camera's and looked at Top camera's online for the past 3 years. I found over and over the AUTO-VOX had a good product consistently and they keep getting better. This of course weighed in with cost. Their camera was a top rated camera which was big for me. It's universal kit allows you to mount in any vehicle. All the components are metal, which I also needed and liked for longevity.

To keep the old school look in the truck without a huge screen in dash or mounted on top of dash, I am using their system that comes with a rear view mirror LCD screen. I wanted both regular mirror and LCD as opposed to the full LCD mirror deal. I haven't really found those to get good reviews yet. This one is also wireless so the camera gets power at the reverse lights out back and that's it. No extra wires running into cab. The mirror gets power that I plan to feed through the roof skin and down the A pillar. The LCD mirror had good reviews as well. When the LCD is off, it's just a regular looking(and functioning) full length mirror.

I tested it out the other day and it works pretty good. I can't wait to start using it for real. Here is the AUTO-VOX unit I purchased:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This is the camera install only. The rest will come later.

This unit comes with the normal license plate bracket mounted camera. I can't use that because of the flip down license plate. I would lose the tow hitch view. Plus I wanted this to look OE as best I could make it. My first thought was to build a flush mount bracket so all you would see is the hole/camera lens. But I quickly realized I have to maintenance this camera if it ever dies flush mounting it would mean an access panel would be needed. If I did the tailgate handle relocate that might work but for now I'm not going that route. Plus with my paint I don't have a clear coat so I couldn't clear over the lens to seal it from elements which means some kind of seal or it just leaks water into the tailgate. So I decided to mount it somewhere I could easily replace it if needed. Right under the tailgate handle works perfectly.

I chopped the metal license plate bracket for a couple small plug welds. That's pretty much all there was to it. I still need to figure out where I will route the wire out the tailgate. I'm pretty sure there is a spot just below the hinge but that will be left for another day.

The camera has LED lights that are like dusk to dawn. When it's dark they illuminate helping to see at night along with your backup lights these should do real nice.





I cut the bracket down, smoothed the edges, and it was ready for install.





Drilled 2 holes, plug welded the bracket to backside of tailgate handle opening.







The camera and bracket have quite a bit of adjustment and the angle was almost a natural fit in our tailgates. Should work out just fine. I tested it with my old tailgate with handle installed and there is no interference with handle.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Nice work on that gas filler! It's hidden and it lets you use your side fill tank.

I'm learning that a lot of aftermarket products are priced with a convenience factor - the fabricator is the only one out there making a certain product and/or buying it is easier/takes less time than making one or gathering the parts yourself.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

x2.

Thanks guys. Yep, suburban side fill tank. And I need to get into this convenience part making business lol.

.

[1971Stepside]

Can this mirror be retrofitted to the stock arm (I have a 71) don't see a pic of the backside of it to know if it could be mounted in place of the original mirror.

[TA_C10]

Funny you ask that. I had plans to do that. I found specs before I bought said the material was metal at the ball joint so I thought perfect! Turns out it's aluminum.... So I couldn't weld the two together. So I'm just gonna stick it to windshield... I have the OE mirror too that mounts to roof panel and it ain't aluminum...

There might be another way but I doubt you would get it to articulate and be sturdy. Maybe I should look at it again just to be sure.

[1971Stepside]

Maybe I should look at it again just to be sure.

I feel like if anyone can figure out how to make it work you will...keep me posted. I love the idea of a backup camera on the truck as I sure don't want to bump into anything.

[MDPotter]

DUUUUUUUDE. That is cool. There you go again, blowing everyone's doors off in the modern convenience department.

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I feel like if anyone can figure out how to make it work you will...keep me posted. I love the idea of a backup camera on the truck as I sure don't want to bump into anything.

My plan is to print an adapter to mount the new mirror to the stock location. So not using the stock arm, but making a mounting pad that the mirror slides into, that uses the 3-screw location. Might consider something like that, or just fill the holes and do the windshield.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

My plan is to print an adapter to mount the new mirror to the stock location. So not using the stock arm, but making a mounting pad that the mirror slides into, that uses the 3-screw location. Might consider something like that, or just fill the holes and do the windshield.

Siggy, I plan to get you my dimensions tonight for Cold Air plate. And I would be VERY interested in the printed piece to utilize stock mounting location. Let me know what you need and I can make that happen too.


.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

DUUUUUUUDE. That is cool. There you go again, blowing everyone's doors off in the modern convenience department.

Thanks man. Some of this stuff is easy work so I figure why not?


.

[rodstored-72]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

DUUUUUUUDE. That is cool. There you go again, blowing everyone's doors off in the modern convenience department.

eehh.. it's alright....

TA: that is a really cool idea.. & very nice setup! I agree with MDpotter....

[TA_C10]

Ok everyone, here is the re-post for my fuel tank sending unit install. Page 5; Post 105

Tanks Inc PA-4 Install - LMC 21 Gallon Side Fill tank


The PO had relocated the gas tank to the rear and used a SummitRacing universal fuel cell with baffles. Worked fine and I originally planned to reuse the tank until I did some extra research on my new fuel system(fuel injected). This truck is going to be a DD, so a quiet and LONG LASTING pump was in order. So I sold the poly fuel cell for $100 which helped purchase the new LMC tank. I went with the LMC tank and PA-4 fuel pump kit because they were much cheaper than the popular boyds tank and also held more fuel.

I wanted the side fill and extra capacity. The truck isn't "draggin crete" with a 4.5 / 5.5 drop and with plans to use a normal 2wd bumper I think I will be fine. I may have to paint the tank if its too visible but no big deal to me. I also plan to put the filler in the bed stake hole up top, or maybe behind the marker light. Not sure yet.

With the LM7 going in for reliability I also needed a new in-tank pump setup with baffle for slosh. So I decided to go with the TANKS INC PA-4 unit. Comes with a Wahlbro 255 lph pump and a little pan that acts as a small baffle in bottom of tank. Here is how I installed the unit.



The PA-4 kit is universal for fuel injection systems. Comes zinc coated with a drop arm that can be cut to fit your tank. After researching the LMC tank I knew there was a flat spot on the top of the tank so I ordered it up and prayed it was a large enough area for the PA-4. Turned out to be perfect size.








I followed pretty much the same video directions provided by tanksinc.com website but with a few modifications... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3jyyOGlD9o

The PA-4 comes with a slotted ring to mount the unit. I used the ring to mark by hole to cut. The PA-4 hole diameter is 4.5". I found large hole saw blades and bit unit at harbor freight, turned out the largest hole saw was only 4.25" but it turned out to be almost perfect size to use because it gave me the ability to use a die grinder and diamond bit to enlarge the hole to the perfect size of the ring. The 4.25 hole saw doesn't cut a perfect hole











Then I slid the PA-4 unit into the tank and marked the front/back for reference later. Then turned the unit upside down and marked the holes to drill.











I then punched the center of my marks, drilled the holes, inserted the slotted ring inside the tank using supplied screws and tack welded it in place with my mig. I cleaned up the welds with the die grinder. Wasn't much to it, pretty simple.












Here is where it got tricky. Because my tank was so large, the PA-4 unit was only setup to be used with a maximum tank depth of 10.5" and my tank depth was 13 and 1/16". So I went down the local hardware store and bought a small piece of galvanized sheet metal. Galvanized because it will be submersed in fuel and I didn't want it rusting. I cut it to size, bend the sides, drilled holes in the center for the screws and it mated up pretty easily to the original unit extending the PA-4 unit the extra few inches I needed so the baffle tank sat on the bottom of gas tank.
















Before finishing the install I wanted to seal up the welds I made on the top of the tank. So I bought some gas tank sealer from Eastwood and it turned out to be some really good stuff. I put 2 coats on.








I then proceeded to install the rest of the components in the kit. I used Permatex gasket maker(fuel resistant) under the cork seal that came with the kit and I put a little antiseize on the screw threads as well.

















Because the unit was extended I also had to buy another foot of submersible fuel hose because the kit only came with a 6" piece. That stuff is expensive!! All in all the unit turned out pretty solid. The wahlbro should provide plenty of fuel for future mods to the LS and now that it's in the tank it should be quiet and cool running.

The top fittings are 1/4" NPT so I will adapt that to AN style fittings for the fuel lines. The 3rd fitting is the rollover vent valve. And the 2 wires for fuel pump will be soldered and waterproofed later on when I get the engine harness completed and fuel pump relay installed.

I capped off the old sending unit supply line but plan to still use it for fuel level gauge.

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Siggy, I plan to get you my dimensions tonight for Cold Air plate. And I would be VERY interested in the printed piece to utilize stock mounting location. Let me know what you need and I can make that happen too.


.

I think all I'd need was to pick up an adapter piece like in the photo, and then just take measurements from my truck on screw spacing and expand the photo piece to include a plate that mounts to the stock bolt holes.



I'll see if I can find the adapter on amazon, and if it's fairly universal for newer-style mirrors.

[siggyfreud]

I'm assuming it uses the left-most style mount. If the left metal plate in my link looks like what they have provided (either in metal or plastic) let me know and I'll order this kit and measure out the piece, then build an adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-76864-...a-634359676517

[1971Stepside]

I'm assuming it uses the left-most style mount. If the left metal plate in my link looks like what they have provided (either in metal or plastic) let me know and I'll order this kit and measure out the piece, then build an adapter.

Siggy, I am interested in an adapter if you come up with something. Thanks

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

I'm assuming it uses the left-most style mount. If the left metal plate in my link looks like what they have provided (either in metal or plastic) let me know and I'll order this kit and measure out the piece, then build an adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-76864-...a-634359676517

Here are the pics. It actually comes with several different adapters for different model vehicles. It would be the one far right in your amazon link.