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09-13-2017, 10:22 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Which should I grind?
I'm in the middle of the disc brake conversion and just replaced the upper and lower ball joints got the spindle in tighten down the castle nuts and I can't turn the steering wheel...
 So the question is do I grind down the spindle or the upper A arm?
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Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen 
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09-14-2017, 06:33 AM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Fisherville ontario
Posts: 4
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Re: Which should I grind?
If you only need to take like an 1/8th inch then id start by grinding the a arm a little, that rolled steel is pretty tough. But are you sure you have the right parts here? Its just weird that its touching
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09-14-2017, 11:50 AM
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#3 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Re: Which should I grind?
Quote:
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Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen
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09-14-2017, 12:00 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 44
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Re: Which should I grind?
I'd grind the spindle. I wouldn't want to compromise the tubular A arms. Tubes are very strong until you introduce a stress riser such as a kink, dent, deep scratch or thin spot. The cast iron spindle wouldn't be compromised if you removed some material from that location.
Correction - that's a factory stamped A arm. I'd still grind the spindle. The rolled portion of the A arm contributes to its rigidity. You're not wrong. The suspension and steering should not bind and fully articulate through its range of travel.
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James 1971 Blazer 350/SM465/NP205 1966 Chevelle 468/TH400 2009 Corvette Z06 built LS7 |
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09-14-2017, 12:08 PM
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Re: Which should I grind?
Quote:
That's what I thought, that A arm was designed to be as minimal as possible and still be strong, I don't want to start taking out material. I will grind the spindle a little and see if that gets me there.
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Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen
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09-14-2017, 01:04 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,907
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Re: Which should I grind?
I would take a little off of each.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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09-15-2017, 08:46 PM
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#7 | |
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Post Whore
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 10,791
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Re: Which should I grind?
Quote:
If they are factory spindles I wouldn't hesitate to remove the material that is causing your problem. If they are aftermarket then I would return them as they may have been mis- machined.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.  RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird. 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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09-15-2017, 10:28 PM
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Re: Which should I grind?
So they have a western logo on them but it looks off, like maybe a spin cast of a western spindle? Here are some photos...
  Here is where the upper ball joint goes...  and Here is is with an overlay of where I think the hole should be... also the red arc shows where the A arm is contacting it. 
__________________
Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen
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09-21-2017, 10:40 PM
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#9 |
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GM Addicted
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Visalia, Ca
Posts: 2,291
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Re: Which should I grind?
If mounting hole was further in towards frame it would have an effect on camber. Also I’ve had a few sets of spindles rub like that when suspension isn’t loaded. Never grinded anything and never had issues.
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 ..Mac’s Garage..73 GMC, 54 Caddy, 2010 Silverado, 68 C10 RIP DAd My 73 GMC Truck Build Pic 2010 Silverado 4/6 on 24s IG:MacsGarage |
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09-25-2017, 07:43 AM
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hayes Va
Posts: 4,569
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Re: Which should I grind?
Are the shocks on it? They will not let it get but so far down.
Jimmy
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60 to 66 Chevy and GMC window decals http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=661131 Good friends, good food and a hotrod what else do you need? 1966 BBW long fleet Daily driver 1965 BBW short fleet Sold and going to a good home 1965 Suburban 2003 3500 Duramax 2005 Ultra Classic |
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09-25-2017, 09:22 AM
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#11 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Re: Which should I grind?
Quote:
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Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen
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