Dana 60 Rotor replacement

[Mr. 250r]

Well after i bought this 89 i noticed under hard braking it would pull to the right pretty decent, so i just decided maybe a cut and some pads and then it slowly spiraled out of control.

Firstly after i took the wheel off i noticed the rotor and 2 real nice gouges in it although the pictures don't make it out to be that bad its pretty noticeable while i could get it cut down i decided on new rotors and pads and ill have these cut and waiting around in case my suburban needs them. The brake pads were also pretty much almost gone on the outside of the right side so since i could not find a D60 rotor replacement guide i decided to make one.

This will also cover the hub bearings/seals/races and while i did this i left the brake line on the caliper and just set it on the king pin.

Starting out, take off the tire if you can't manage this sell your truck. Then check your brakes and see what they look like, here is what mine looked like.



After inspecting your pads you need to take out the allen bolt on the lower backside of the caliper



Then take a punch of whatever you desire to knock the 2 caliper locking pieces out, here is it half way out



Then you will end up with these 2 pieces so don't lose them



Now this is where you take off the caliper I've done it two ways the first time i lift the bottom out after a good amount of work, the second time i took the top out first with the hub on but able to fall off, do it either which way you desire.

Now after you get the caliper off you will have this, check your rotors, pads whatever you want but now we go even farther. Firstly though here are my pads and rotor.




Now onward to take off the locking hubs and hub



Take off the 6 screw holding the locking hub on



You will then have something like this, don't mind the two screws i put back in ill explain that later. You must take out the big snap ring that sits on the inside of the hub around the outer edge and then the small one on the end of the axle.



Now here is why those two screws were put back in as you just use them to pull out the rest of the locking hub, easy as that



Now you have this so there is a 3 lock/washer setup going on here and you will need a special socket which is NOT the same as the 10b/44 one just in case anyone wondered. You use the socket to take off the first lock nut



Now there is a washer with holes in it that connect to the back nut so you need to get it off however you choose. I use snap ring pliers with those brass ends or whatever and grab to holes and pull it off the other lock nut



After that washer is off you take the socket again and take off the last lock nut and you will basically end up with this



This shows the little nipple that holds the middle hole'd washer in place


Now all the hard work has paid off, at this point you should be able to pull the hub and rotor assembly right off and be careful its somwhat heavy if your not holding it right and the outer bearing will fall out if you tip it backwards *Locking hub side to ground, outer bearing will fall out as pictured*



At this point you can check for possible spindle damage or check the dust cover or whatever you decide maybe even go for a kingpin rebuild while your here lol



I should be updating this tomorrow with the whole pressing studs out, new seals, re packing the bearings and hopefully putting it all back together

[350TacoZilla]

nice step by step, though now would be a good time to switch to the easier to work on and get parts for 3/4T style brakes.


http://www.azrockcrawler.com/_images...brakeconv.html

[Mr. 250r]

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla

nice step by step, though now would be a good time to switch to the easier to work on and get parts for 3/4T style brakes.


http://www.azrockcrawler.com/_images...brakeconv.html

I dunno if i would consider it an upgrade but i don't want to get into that right now but ill keep reading up on it thanks for the piece as i never knew about it before.

Now onto the some more progress a couple of things happened, one the hubs and rotors are assembled and ready to go back on the truck but I'm waiting to ask my uncle about something tomorrow and I've decided to take a couple more steps that aren't really anything worth noting but ill be taking off the caliper mount and dust cover just for the heck of it while I'm there and since the dust cover is no longer made ill clean it up and paint it before it rusts to pieces.

Here are some pictures of the progress.

Continuing where i left off, this is what you should have at this point



Now time to take the hub and rotor and get the studs out. You can do this however you please if you don't want the studs you can beat them out of need be or do like i did since im saving the studs i pressed them out. The press i used didn't exactly fit everything the best but i made do using one of my lug nuts which is open ended and flat so i threaded it about 1/4in from the bottom and put this bolt on top and pressed them out pretty easily on the first rotor



The whole setup using a trusty harbor freight jack



I don't have any pictures but on this one the hub did not fall off the rotor like the other one so i just flipped it over in there and put a piece of wood and pressed it off the rotor which took no effort so then you end up with this



Now is a good time to replace the seals while your here and check the bearings my seals were junk as you can tell from this they were also seated wrong



The way i got the back bearing out was doing this, take a block of wood and hit the bearing from the hub side which will knock the bearing and the seal out at the same time, be careful not to hit the race. And no you don't have to do anything the way I'm doing it this is just a step by step feel free to change it as you do it



If you do it my way you end up with this after a bit



Seals bad. My other rotor the spring was stuck inside the bearing so good idea is to probably replace them



At this point i would suggest cleaning the hub like i did, i washed it in solvent then put it in the parts cleaner then you can check the races to see if they need replaced luckily mine didn't. You can also clean both bearings however so i used solvent again and then air and check them here is the inner bearing, all my bearings are perfectly normal so i will not be replacing them just the seals

Not sure why but my camera seems to make the bearings and races have all these non existent scratches and stuff something with the flash and reflection but they're good trust me




First race looks pitted but that's left over from the parts washer i didn't wipe off



Second race



Now after its all cleaned out i then suggest cleaning the mating surface for the rotor you do not want that to have anything on it so it can press flat against the hub, i wire wheeled it



Then i wire wheeled the other side where the wheel bolts to as well



At this point if you want you could just paint it but i didn't, but now on to my least favorite part. Packing the bearings. Assuming your bearings/races are good or you got new ones here's what i do. By hand. You could also use a bearing packer its up to you, the way i do it is put a big glob in your hand as then push the grease through the bearing until it comes out the top as show then i lightly coat the whole bearing in grease



Now put the bearing back in the back of the hub making sure it sits in there correctly



Put the new seal on. This is the updated seal per say the original is a single lip the new is a double lip



Notice how the studs are already in?! Confusing isn't it lol but don't worry about that i did some stuff backwards but don't let it all confuse you. Now i lightly tapped the seal in with a plastic headed hammer and made it flush but you could press it or use a big socket just do whatever to get it in there



Now time to clean the studs and put them in. I let them sit in solvent then cleaned them with a wire wheel but do as you please or if you bought new ones it wouldn't matter



Put the studs in the rotor and the way i did it was with a piece of metal and a mini sledge but you could press them in or use the lug nut method, whatever suits you just make sure they are in. When i pressed them i had one side down to far and there was a very slight rock in the rotor i happened to of noticed so i switched to the hammer and it is was cured



Check to make sure they seated all the way and the reason i like the hammer and punch setup is because when you do that you can hear them seat as the sound from hitting it will change but again to each their own



Check the outside for no gaps as an added precaution



After all that hard work you end up with this




I will continue this tomorrow stay tuned for some more picture heavy posts

[61K10]

great thread Mr 250R--

[Mr. 250r]

Originally Posted by 61K10

great thread Mr 250R--

Thank you now time to post some more on it since I've been away

Now starting where i left off, take off the dust cover and brake shield



this is what you should have next



this is as far as im going i am not going to take the spindle off or anything so clean it up and check for damage if need be, here is a damage check pic and nothing wrong



after that its basically the end for me at least and the only reason i went this far was to paint the brake and caliper shields, the dust shield one seems to be zinc coated which will not rust but will corrode and since mine was in good condition just corroding i decided to wire wheel it and paint it along with the brake shield




Put the caliper bracket, brake shield and dust cover back on and then the washers and nuts and tighten it all down

[Mr. 250r]

Had everything painted finally started finishing the other side and guess what happens the caliper is all locked up so in a small fit of rage i decided to hit the piston with a hammer then checking online for a new one they core charge lol so i dunno what im gonna do besides buy a new one and finish it up

[Mr. 250r]

To pickup where i left off i got a rebuilt caliper and all is well now here we go..

I lightly greased the spindle do as you please on this part



Now slide the hub assembly on and now your ready to put the spindle lock nuts in



Now here was another problem for me.. one of my original spindle lock nut sets was installed incorrectly so i just decided to "upgrade" per se to the stage 8 set now you do not have to do this as it is an expensive upgrade compared to the original stock nuts and the original will probably hold up fine but these stage 8 can't really come loose thanks to a snap ring design but do as you wish. I believe 4wdfactory sells original lock nuts but i got my stage 8's from summit racing. I will show how to install both for your viewing pleasure

Firstly here is a picture of what happens when they are installed incorrectly. One do not use a punch to put these on, use the correct socket or else this will happen



Then someone put the first spindle nut on backwards which presses the nipple against the bearing thus breaking it off as pictured here the broken one sits on top of the other nut that still has the nipple on it. This nipple is needed for the special washer that is placed on after this piece which will be explained shortly



This next part will cover installing the original gm 3 spindle nut set, first you start with the spindle nut with the nipple you MUST install this facing out away from the bearing. I believe there is a torque spec on this but i do not know it i went off what my father told me to do which was tighten it down tight till the rotor has drag on it since you are putting a preload on the bearing but feel free to go and find the torque spec if you want i am not telling you to do it my way remember that lol. Also if you install the spindle nut wrong the whole setup will be wrong and lead to eventual damage which i do have



Now you put on the special washer that has a tab that slides on the key way that is on the spindle then one of the many holes on it slide over the nipple on the first spindle nut as to lock it in place and if its not lined up you just tighten or loosen the first spindle nut a little till you get it in the closest hole. Make sure that it is in there as this prevents it from spinning if you don't then again there will be eventual damage



Now you can put on the last spindle lock nut this one i again went to my father who said tighten it as much as you can against that special washer, again i believe there is a torque spec but i am not going off it so do as you wish on this part



Now installing the original gm spindle lock nuts are done, now i will cover the stage 8 lock nut install then continue on to the locking hubs and such

Here is the back of the package you will only worry about the top 5 pieces, i didn't take any pictures of the rest of the package or instructions but the instructions could not be more simple



Here is what you get



The first part you put on is the thrust washer and there is no nipple that can get messed up on. refer to my picture of the package to figure out which is which



Next is the notched washer that can only be lined up one way on the spindle key way



Next is the grooved spindle nut that you will either tighten to spec or tighten a lot to put preload on the bearing and drag on the hub/rotor assembly



Using a pair of special pliers you put the locking retainer over the grooved spindle nut and locks into it at the same time and then locks into the 2nd notched washer you put in. It may not line up on the first one so as the instructions say rotate it through every hole as it may line up which it did for me or you tighten or loosen the grooved spindle nut slightly until it lines up with the closest notches



After that using the same pliers you will put the snap ring in onto the grooved spindle nut. You must put the snap ring on the farther groove since there are 2 grooves it will be the one closest to the locking retainer you just put in and if it doesn't go in that groove its because the locking retainer is not all the way in



Double check that the snap in is 100% in the far groove as pictured