OK, Time to start planning my lift. ?'s (Long post)

[Psycho71]

'85 Burb - 3/4ton 4x4 w/350/400/208. D44 front and 14bolt rear diff's. Warn hubs in front. Lockers are not known at this time as I have been focused on getting power to the diff's, and will be digging into them as I work my way towards them. but the build sheet says 3.73;1 gears front and rear.


I'm getting ready to drop the newly rebuilt drivetrain in within the next week. It's all done, sittin in the shop just waiting til I get the time to deal with it. So next on the agenda will be the suspension/lift.

I have some 16.5x9.75" wheels and some Military 36x12.5x16.5 tires I'll start out running. Kinda of a budget constraint right now, but will be upgrading the tires in the future if I don't like these bias ply's. Not ever looking to run a tire larger than 36", and more likely will settle in around 35" with my final tire selection. With a very possible gear ratio change coming sooner or later, depending on initial drive ability.

And the more I read, the more I realize I am liable to be upgrading to a D60 front diff, and an NP205 at some point, but not sure if this has a bearing on my inquiry at this time.

Anyhow, I have been on the fence between a straight up 6" lift or a 4"lift and doing some fender trimming. Given the burb will need a paint job anyway, I am pretty set on doing the 4" lift and trimming the fenders before the paint work is done. Thinking on keeping the COG lower and overall profile lower this way. And by looking at a LOT of pics, fender trimming can be done where it doesn't look like a complete hack job.

So now is where I get to show my ignorance on the whole 4x4 thing. I know I can just get a lift kit and slap it on there, and get the lift I want/need. But I'm reading about add a leaf kits, shackle flips, etc... I thought I wanted a kit with front and rear springs, no lift blocks in the rear. This would leave me the option of adding a 1-2" block in the rear if I need something to level the truck back out once I get it all set-up and loaded to it's normal capacity (bumpers, swing away spare rack, roof rack, interior drawer storage system, etc...). I do not want to rear of the burb sagging like grandma's old baggy drawers. No offense to anyone's grandma intended!

So, can anyone explain if I should be considering a shackle flip as a portion, or the main source, of the rear lift? The benefits or draw backs of doing this? Operationally, or Financially? I have researched this online, and can't come up with a firm yeah or nay answer.

Same question(s) about the add-a-leaf (front and/or rear)?

The leafs on the front are flat right now, not sure if they are meant to be that way stock or not. The rears are almost surely sagging a bit.

This thing will NOT be a daily driver, but will see regular road use as my fishing and hunting vehicle. As well as being a trail and moderate off-road recreational vehicle. I want it to be capable of towing just about anythng I want to hook up to it, but mainly it will be towing my little bass boat or a 16' utility trailer with my 8n tractor and mower on it. Pretty much all my regular towing needs can be met using any decently powered 1/2ton pick-up.

Thanks for any advice y'all can offer up. And you cannot be too descriptive in your answers. I am learning this 4wd stuff as I go, so be gentle .


Jay

[duallyjams]

D-60 front with cross over steering and 52 inch front springs
the rear shackle flip with zero rate
http://diy4x.com/
http://offroaddesign.com/

[special-K]

I put a Tuff Country 4" EZ-Ride suspension on my '91 Suburban with Rancho RSX9000 shocks (adjustable) and 12.50/35 Goodyear MTRs mounted on 10" wheels. I really like this set-up. The springs are the longer 56" ones from factory. Shackle flip is cool,but you still have your tired old springs. My 'Burb rides real nice on softest setting with no sway even with 4-5 passengers (2 seats) and the cargo area full of tools. It rides just as well with just me and no tools. I go to full firm only when towing and that keeps it just right. I never messed with the 7 settings between. If I leave the shocks soft with a trailer I really feel the difference...very mushy with swap. If I set the shocks to firm without a trailer the suspension feels like a rock over speed bumps,etc. I keep the swap bar on the front and used a spacer. Oh...I didn't cut the fenders and the tires did bite the back of the front fenders. With stiffer springs and 8" wheels it probably wouldn't hit. Mine are still uncut,but kinda bent .

[MTCK]

Sounds like a cool build. Not that it matters, but you likely have a 9.5" SF 14 bolt and corporate 10 bolt front if they are the original axles. I had a shackle flip on my old blazer and loved it. I'd be concerned that the stock springs may be tired, especially when you load that big dog up. Add-a-leaf's are fine, but a pain to install, and again you are reusing the original springs.

I personally like the idea of the 4" and fender trimming. In your application I'd go springs all around and get some heavy duty ones for the rear. Also, since you are already 8-lug, you could keep your eyes open for a K30 and grab the 14FF, D60 and likely lower gears in the future with not much modifying to install them...

I have always liked ORD's stuff, so take a look at their web site.

Post a build thread when you get started, and good luck to you.

[Psycho71]

Give that man a cookie! LOL

I did a little crawling around under it yesterday and discovered it is in fact the 14bolt semi-floater, and the 10bolt. I will be keeping my eyes out for a donor truck so I can get the good stuff. For now, I'll just check these out and make sure they aren't gonna leave me stranded somewhere.

Looks like this project is gonna be fast tracked a bit. I just got the word today that my new job starts monday, with a company truck. But they won't be as lenient on me using it for personal stuff as my present employer is. So I'll be needing to get this thing on the road fairly quickly so my hunting and fishing doesn't suffer.

It's looking like the 4" lift is gonna be my best way to go. Any reason I shouldn't be looking at Rough Country for the parts? So far I'm looking at springs front and rear, shocks, high steer arm, new steering stabilizer, and steering box brace kit.Along with all the parts to rebuild the steering and outer axle components. I figure she'll roll down the road with that, on the street anyway, then I can look into the trimming before I get offroad with her too much, and possibly some cut-out fender flares at that time as well to make things pretty (maybe).