"Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis

[HUSSEY]

I did a quick paint job on my dash last weekend. I also centered and enlarged the cutout for the steering column. I shot it with some primer, sanded with 600, then shot it with Rustoleum Professional. I have to give a thumbs up for the Rustoleum Professional, it comes in a larger silver can, I’ve seen it at Home Depot and Lowe’s. This stuff laid out awesome for a rattle can. The last coat I put on heavy and wet and didn’t get any runs. It dried with a good gloss and minimal orange peel.

[HUSSEY]

The brakes have been 90 percent done for some time. I finished off the remainder this weekend by getting the final pieces in place and bled the system out. I used a modified S10 pedal bracket. The brake booster is an eight in. dual diaphragm that I got from Pirate Jack’s and the master cylinder is from a 1980 Corvette which had front and rear disk brakes. Currently I don’t have a proportioning valve. If I have issues with the rear wheels locking up I’ll install an inline valve to the rears. I read a great article on brake system valves which I used to arrive at my decision not to install a proportioning valve just yet. I had posted that article here previously, post 4:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=710975

I installed new lines on the front and made use of the OE rear line. I found out that bending brake line templates out of coat hanger makes the install a bit easier. I did a Blazer big brake swap and the front brake hoses and hose brackets are from a 2000 Blazer.

I also moved the brake light switch. The new switch incorporates the brake lights, TCC lockup, and cruise control into a single switch, P/N AC Delco D1541D. The front terminal pair is normally open (brake lights) and the two rear terminal pairs are normally closed (will be used for the TCC lockup).

To bleed the brakes I used a pneumatic bleeder I picked up at Harbor Freight. Harbor Freight tools can be hit and miss but I thought this one was a winner and I would recommend it. The entire system was dry with a new master cylinder. I started at the furthest wheel back and worked my way forward. By the time I was done with the last wheel the pedal was firm and there was no need to go back and do any additional bleeding.

[joedoh]

nice work! its nice that the standard s10 caliper hoses fit the blazer brakes, because the blazer hoses dont fit the standard s10 caliper, and the rubber lines dont fit the blazer hard lines, or even the blazer frame brackets! (I bought a blazer line and hose setup, my truck frame did not have any)

brakes are the one thing I cant stand doing. I am going to pick up a harbor freight bleeder on your advice, I have a 10 year old mity vac that is a giant pain to use.

[HUSSEY]

Thanks mate! I was about to buy some stainless braided brake hose and the needed AN adapter fittings from Summit for the front flex lines then though, why?

I've been trying to put as many auto parts store available parts on my truck as possible that way if I do have future issues the replacement parts are easily obtained. About the only custom items are my Spahl fan and Summit radiator.

One other tool you may want to look at is the Eastwood Pro Brake Tubing Flaring Tool. You can use it to make double flares for brake lines and also bubble flares for hard lines to soft lines. It is a bit pricey at $200 but it works really, really well. I have a small hand held flaring tool but never really liked it. It's kind of hard to justify a $200 brake flare tool but I'm kind of a tool junkie though.

[HUSSEY]

Also another note I should have pointed out above is I got all of my brake tubing and fittings at Advance Auto. Their fittings are about the best price I've seen anywhere. Even if a line comes with a fitting, I prefer to cut it off over using an adapter, it avoids another potential leak source and I think it provides a cleaner look.

[Advanced Design]

Very nice work! Real clean on the brake pedal assembly mounting. How good is the finish coating on the brake booster from Pirate Jack?

[99 to Life]

Nice work, I'll have to give the prop valve a read. My 51' had all new everything and drums on rear, its got issues I need to diagnose. My last build used all disc, 7" booster and prop valve and it stopped way better. So maybe my drums aren't adjusted right. I got same booster for current truck off pirate bay, it doesn't look like a powder coat to me.

If you get fittings from parts store, look behind their counter for the ones that come bulk, way cheaper than buying the ones out on the floor. also we have a place called Hovis in my town, they have the cheapest fittings anywhere water, brake etc. They also sell air ride stuff.

[HUSSEY]

As 99 noted above, the booster doesn't look like powder coating, more like that electro deposit paint that comes on replacement panels. Not a high gloss but more of a semi gloss. I would give it a 7 out of 10, not bad, but if you want it to look really nice it would need to be repainted though I don't think you would be disappointed.

[HUSSEY]

I got the gas filler squared away. I ended up piecing together a filler neck out of my original S10 filler neck. I cut it off about where it bends and also cut off the end. I then welded on the end to have a sealing lip. Instead of using my MIG I thought I would give gas welding a try with some 1/16 filler rod.

I got the grommet from McMaster-Carr, P/N 63595K38. They’re made by Kennard (http://www.kennardind.com). It’s really a pipe grommet but I thought it worked well. I also bought an assortment of these for my wiring; they make them for all different IDs. I like them because they have a center that stretches easily. The easiest way to find them is to search for “Pipe Grommet” on McMaster-Carr’s website.

I plan on getting a new gas cap ordered. I saw another builder use a Harley Davidson fuel tank cap, P/N 61102-83, its chrome, threaded, and vented. My plan is to keep this non-vented cap on when it’s parked in the garage over longer periods of time but swap out for a vented cap when I drive it.

From the pics the neck looks like its installed horizontal but it actually has a slope to it. I positioned the fill inlet a couple inches higher than the connection on the gas tank.

[tetfemal]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

Running boards are mounted up. I saw a few different methods out there, I got this idea from chopit on 67-72chevytrucks. It worked out well for me. My boards had been patched by the previous owner which I think warped them. You can see I had to clamp the running boards down to my welding bench since they were warped so bad. Building this “frame” helped hold them straight making it easier to get them mocked up to the cab. I used 1x1.5 in. 11 GA for the frame and 1.5x3 in. 11 GA for the mount that bolts to the frame. My forward mount is mounted just behind the splice on the frame which is nice flat spot. The rearward mount is forward of the rear of the cab.

Do you have a downloadable pdf on these like the cab mounts you've posted?

[HUSSEY]

^^^^^
I did not make up any drawings of the running board frame. Because of the subtle differences that may exist, I think you'd be more satisfied building them to fit.

My suggestion is to first cut the short 1x1.5 in. pieces that bolt to the running board, get them drilled and mounted on the board. Then lay the long 1x1.5 piece on the board, make your marks on your smaller mount pieces then notch them out and weld those to the longer piece that runs the length of the board. One item to note is try to make that notch as tight as possible or else they will warp when welding them on.

Following that cut your 1.5x3 in. piece that bolts to the frame. From the pics you can get an idea of how tall they are. From the pics you can also get an idea of about where they mount vertically and horizontally along the frame. I would suggest drilling some elongated holes in them so you can can move them up and down a little to fine tune their height.

I would suggest cutting the piece that connect the running board to the frame mounts a little long. Fit them up and identify where they mount to the running board frame, weld that up, then you can fit them up to the frame mount.

I had installed a new cab to running boar rubber filler piece before mocking up my running boards. I think doing this made it easier getting them aligned and mocked up.

Good luck and happy building!

[av8tr33337]

I just spent a couple hours going through your entire build thread. Some if it looks very familiar as a lot of us have gleaned the same info from other build threads over the last few years. I also appreciate the innovations you have come up with. Many of them will definitely give me fuel to finish my build.

I definitely see a few things I wish I would have done different on mine, but then on the other hand you actually put my mind at ease in several areas where I have been second guessing myself. (ride height being one)

Since mine is my first ever build, I fear that I will end up with a few regrets along the way, but that's part of the process. My build has been very slow due to life getting in the way from time to time, but Im getting to a place where I will be able to devote a little more time and resources to getting this thing on the road.

All time and effort that went into documenting your progress is much appreciated and I will definitely be following for more ideas and insight.

[HUSSEY]

Hey Bartman, you know, your video and build is where I got the positioning of the cab mount 2 in. forward of the "oval hole" in the frame. I had also studied your build several years ago when getting started on mine. There's a lot of great info on here and I'm a big believer of not trying to re-invent the wheel, but rather try to make improvements on it.

I've had fun documenting my build hoping that it may help others along the way. I'd say mine is a pretty good composite of many of the good ideas I had picked up from other threads.

I understand the life thing, I've been at mine for several years now. Hope to see some updates and where you go on your truck.

[iowaboynca]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I understand the life thing, I've been at mine for several years now.

This made me chuckle....

[tetfemal]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

^^^^^
I did not make up any drawings of the running board frame. Because of the subtle differences that may exist, I think you'd be more satisfied building them to fit.

My suggestion is to first cut the short 1x1.5 in. pieces that bolt to the running board, get them drilled and mounted on the board. Then lay the long 1x1.5 piece on the board, make your marks on your smaller mount pieces then notch them out and weld those to the longer piece that runs the length of the board. One item to note is try to make that notch as tight as possible or else they will warp when welding them on.

Following that cut your 1.5x3 in. piece that bolts to the frame. From the pics you can get an idea of how tall they are. From the pics you can also get an idea of about where they mount vertically and horizontally along the frame. I would suggest drilling some elongated holes in them so you can can move them up and down a little to fine tune their height.

I would suggest cutting the piece that connect the running board to the frame mounts a little long. Fit them up and identify where they mount to the running board frame, weld that up, then you can fit them up to the frame mount.

I had installed a new cab to running boar rubber filler piece before mocking up my running boards. I think doing this made it easier getting them aligned and mocked up.

Good luck and happy building!

Seems fairly easy enough, thanks

[kameltoes2015]

Excellent details on attaching running board brackets. I am at that point in my restro, but what's "running board rubber filler piece" can you send me a pic or a link so I can get that piece(s) so I can illuminate alignment issues.

[HUSSEY]

^^^^^
Look for P/N 30-2330 on LMCs Website. Their diagram provides a good description of what it is.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=26

[kameltoes2015]

Thanks for that info.

[HUSSEY]

Getting everything wired up is my next major task at hand. I’ve divided up the wiring into three major groups 1) Power Supply and Starting System, 2) Engine Wiring, and 3) Chassis Wiring. The engine wiring is in place and was fairly easy though I still have couple circuits I have to integrate into the chassis wiring harness. I’ve also got the power supply done.

I made up a hot start kit for my starter anticipating possible hot start issues with headers, been there before. On the starter I used a small piece of copper tubing hammered flat to jump the start terminal and the battery cable terminal. I then installed a Ford starter solenoid back at the battery. This keeps the starter power cable from being powered all the time and will reduce the start terminal wiring voltage drop notorious on hot GM starter solenoids which pull a decent amount of current. For the starter cable I used 1/0 AWG welding cable I picked up on eBay.

I have two power supply cables. Each of the power supply cables run through a maxi fuse made by Cooper Busman, these holders are nice and were around $10. The power cables are 6 AWG welding cables. One supply runs to the cab which provides power to the fuse block. The other runs to the front of the truck which will provide power to the electric fan, headlights, and future fog lights (via relays). Everything is hooked up to the battery via military style battery terminals. Here are a few in-progress pics.

[dug224]

Man, love the attention to detail. Great photos. dug

[joedoh]

look at all those adel clamps!

what great attention to detail, I wish I had a fifth of it. look at all that new hardware too, just staggeringly gorgeous.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

look at all those adel clamps!

So that's what those buggers are called, "adel" clamps. I had a hard time finding them at a good price, the hardware store wants $1/piece. I bought 50 in three different sizes from a guy on eBay that sells them in bulk, he called them P-Clamps. A search on eBay for adel clamps turned up 500+ results!

FYI...I've experienced that eBay has been a great source for misc. items like wire loom, electrical crimp terminals, wire, cable, adel clamps. heat shrink, switches etc. Most vendors ship for free, or for a low fee with combined shipping, and stuff typically gets out within a day.

[joedoh]

I still have a few in my toolbox from when I was an avionics tech! sometimes when you would run a couple extra wires, engineering would call out the next larger size for the bundle. regrettably I have used the zip ties with the holes instead on most of my stuff. haha

[84blaze]

Can you measure for me how far your running board mounts hang below the frame?

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by 84blaze

Can you measure for me how far your running board mounts hang below the frame?

No problem, I'll grab a measurement next time I'm in the garage.