Restoration help

[shane427]

I am wondering what parts of the truck need to be original for it to be considered a good restoration. I.E. parts that need to match the id numbers and such. Does it affect the value if you have to replace a rusted door or buy a new wiper motor (just examples) My current project is a 69 chevy C-10 with a 350 4 bolt main and a turbo 400 tranny. Going with a frame off restor. Need some help with what I should keep and what I can replace without damaging the trucks value

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[COBALT]

I was worried about the same thing when I got my '69 C20 considering that I was going to do the same thing. I have the same config as you only 3/4 ton.

What I discovered simply by experience is that the engine, tranny, carb...most of the big mechanical components are worth keeping in good condition and restoring to original-especially those 4bolt mains and TH400s. Things like water pumps, fuel pumps, steering boxes, etc. can be rebuilt and cleaned up (the cases are really the important parts-especially for TH400's).

Stuff like doors, bed panels, rockers, fenders, tubs, etc. are very hard to keep original because of cancer. If the entire panel has been replaced has it been replaced with a panel from the same year? That's probably a good thing. Was it welded and/or filled? Well, that's a different story I would think.

Crap like hardware who cares unless you're picky, but I think the hardest thing to contend with is grills, tailgates, wheel covers, bed hardware (if a wood bed especially), door hinges, suspension parts, and brake parts. Basically, anything that takes a considerable amount of abuse over 35 years, and is hard to find orignally (or even decent replacements for).

If you need a grill and a tailgate start looking NOW. It took a while for me to secure these two little items.

One thing to remember, though. These trucks aren't technically classics yet. They're still in the "fun as hell and easy to customize" category. Maybe in 20 years when they're not around any more...but I wouldn't spend time rebuilding a wheel cylinder unless replacements aren't made any more...my .02

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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!


[This message has been edited by new69owner (edited May 20, 2002).]

[1971Stepside]

Shane,

What I have seen on these trucks the number match is not as critical as say your old Camaro's etc. I think having original metal is good vs. Fiberglass etc. Lastly, the cool thing about Hot Rods and showing is that everyone has something a little different. You can pretty much do whatever and as long as the quality of workmanship and parts is there you are good. These old trucks don't follow the same numbers match, original paint, one owner stuff that the cars do. If you were going back 100% stock then I could see where that would be beneficial, but if you are going for a street truck/show truck then personalize it and you will be good.

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2001 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax, Allison, 4WD, Love it

1971 Chevrolet 1/2 ton 2WD Short/Step Side. In process of frame off restoration

[Longhorn Man]

Date coded diff oil and date coded tire air is a b!tch to find!
I afree that magor components are where you need to be concerned. Engine, tranny, rear axle, ect.
As far as body panels go, I like trying to keep the drivers side door. If not painted over, there is a sticker in there showing the birth month of your ride.

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'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
E-mail longhornmail@yahoo.com
My name is Andy...not Randy...I'm in Ohio...Not Illinois...close enough?
Columbus Ohio