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Old 05-21-2018, 04:37 PM   #1
ncoonen
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292 Push Rods

I feel like kind of a dumbass but I am going to ask anyway. Is there some trick to dropping in the push rods on a 292 after the head is torqued down? This is the first time I've put a 292 head on with the engine in the truck ('63 C10). In the past I have done the assembly on an engine stand.

The #6 push rods are not even close to standing up straight enough to drop in. I thought about a hole in the cowl to be plugged later but that's just embarrassing.

D'oh...ned.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:40 PM   #2
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Re: 292 Push Rods

I know nothing about 292's so just shooting off the hip here. But don't they have inspection covers on the side of the block that you can take off?
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:00 PM   #3
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Re: 292 Push Rods

For those that don't understand the problem, on some applications there is not enough room between the firewall & top of engine to drop the pushrod straight down. Drilling a hole in the cowl is probably the way you will have to do it. I wander if a guy could pull the lifter out & put the pushrod down in the hole & up into the head. Then put the lifter back in. Usually you have to have the pushrod in the head with a wire or close pin .
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:34 PM   #4
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Re: 292 Push Rods

Quote:
I know nothing about 292's so just shooting off the hip here. But don't they have inspection covers on the side of the block that you can take off?
There isn't enough slack in the path of the rod to allow you to tip it in the top and then slide it down onto the lifter.

Quote:
I wander if a guy could pull the lifter out & put the pushrod down in the hole & up into the head. Then put the lifter back in.
I am going to try that next but I don't have faith that there is room for the push rod to slide past the cam and still have a straight shot up through the block guides and the head. The darn rods are almost 11.5' long.
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:09 PM   #5
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Re: 292 Push Rods

Here's a picture of the #6 intake push rod trying to fit into the head casting. The top of the push rod needs to go back about an inch to drop in through the castings. Just to give an idea to those who can't picture the problem.
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Old 05-22-2018, 06:54 AM   #6
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Re: 292 Push Rods

Unbolt the trans and jack it up to tilt the engine forward?

For others, the slot in the head acts as the pushrod guide, so you can't just drill it bigger.
Must confess I've always pre-assembedl my engines out of the vehicle - but I can see how you got here.
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Old 05-22-2018, 06:34 PM   #7
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Re: 292 Push Rods

Quote:
Originally Posted by ncoonen View Post
Here's a picture of the #6 intake push rod trying to fit into the head casting. The top of the push rod needs to go back about an inch to drop in through the castings. Just to give an idea to those who can't picture the problem.
You learn something new every day. I guess I've always been spoiled by other engines that don't have this problem.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:27 PM   #8
'68OrangeSunshine
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Re: 292 Push Rods

Compressing the No. 5 & 6 valve springs with the 292 in-situ can be a problem, too.
I had to modify the wonder-bar type of valve spring compressor, by drilling an almond shape out of the flat part and inverting it. The pushrod then rides thru the hole, while you work the bar back-handed.
Disconnecting the forward mounts and lowering the block is the only solution I can think of.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:11 AM   #9
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Re: 292 Push Rods

Depending on how original the truck is, I would be tempted to do as Wrenchbender said. Drill a hole in line with the rod opening. Push the rod up and then drop it down then patch the hole and paint it. Otherwise, it's a lot of work.
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Old 05-25-2018, 08:01 PM   #10
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Re: 292 Push Rods

Or drill a hole and plug it with one of these...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-K...6072/100200567
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Old 05-26-2018, 09:27 AM   #11
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Re: 292 Push Rods

Once I have the time, I plan to drill a 7/16" hole for each pushrod. One will come up through the cowl lip, where the back of the hood meets the cowl. The other will go through the curved firewall up behind where the underdash heater air hoses run. I'll patch the hole in the cowl lip in a manner TBD. The other hole will get a proper firewall grommet and I'll use it for the tach, oil pressure, and water temp gauge wiring. In the picture above you might notice the tach signal wire going through the firewall in a simple hole with some RTV smeared on it..

I'll post some pictures when the deed is done.
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