1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[Super_Dave]

BABA YAGA! got some new KYB shocks installed today. They made quite a difference:

Increased HP: 47HP
Increased MPG: 3.7 MPG
Decreased ET 1/4 Mile: -2.35 sec.
Decreased 60-0 Stopping Distance: 58' 6"
Decreased W-W Turning Radius: .5 Turns
Doors close easier...
Door and Fender Gaps no longer need adjustment...
Front dropped 5" and back dropped 8"... so I don't have to remove any leaf's in the rear or buy any expensive drop kits...

Who woulda thunk $125 worth of KYB's woulda done all that!
Oh, and the ride is a bit firm but should mellow out after the KYB's get broken in...
Front: KG5409 $31.99 each
Rears: KG5415 $31.79 each
$40 rebate through April

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

Next up are the new KYB shocks, Cab Mounts and (4) hinge pins and (2) S springs. Need my sons strong back for help on the doors.

I use a cherry picker (engine hoist) for the doors so no help needed taking them off or going back on.

[Super_Dave]

Well... missed my edit deadline... Here is BABA YAGA's! new derrière and ankle braces...

KYB furnished nice quality upper hardware but you have to use your old lower hardware until you can get replacements. Would be nice if the hardware were complete or they let you know that you will only be getting half of the hardware so you can have the lowers on hand.

On to the doors... hinge pins and springs, and new body mounts! Still keeping my eye out for radiator core support, inner fender (God only knows why that specific area manages to die an ugly death from the battery... gotta fix that issue once and for all) and a bed side that will be cheaper than fixing the dents on my beltline... those hard edges can eat a lot of body work time, making a bone yard find much more reasonable.

After that, it's time to get serious about the newly discovered cancer (minor though it is compared to most) in the inner rockers and kick panels.

Then start saving funds for body, paint and upholstery.

[Super_Dave]

While waiting for funds to multiply, I have been playing around on paint schemes and wheel combos for BABA YAGA!

[Super_Dave]

Sunday afternoon, my son and I went to the pick-n-pull and retrieved a pristine 1974 chrome front bumper. While there, I wanted a side view mirror upgrade.

I spotted a couple Chevy Beauville's with power mirrors. I snagged a set and even though I don't know if I will actually hook them up to power, I liked the increased mirror size. Plus, I can fine tune the mirror angle by hand without having to move the main housing.

The passenger mirror on one van had the 1" black plastic trim ring around the mirror housing, but the drivers side did not. The second van had a drivers side with the trim ring but no glass... someone had popped it out for a replacement. So, I opted to buy it anyway and then order or pull a mirror later.

The Beauville does not have the same curvature to the door that the C20 does, so using the chrome housing was not an option. We ended up cutting the base of the post off, where the compression washers are, co we could slide the post out of the housing. We then replaced that housing with one of the OEM C20 housings, tightened up the compression sleeve around the post inside the housing and we were in business. I can practically see the curvature of the Earth in that mirror!

The only real issue is the Beauville mirror post grommet on top of their housing is way too big for the C20 housing's hole, so we sectioned the Beauville's grommet for the time being. We tried the C20 grommet but the Beauville's shaft diameter is too big to work with that setup, so I will turn replacement grommets on the lathe out of Delrin to take its place.

Like a lot of things we do, we didn't take any photographs. However, when we replace the glass on the drivers door mirror and replace the OEM mirror, I will document the process and post it to this thread.

[Super_Dave]

Well, today we took BABA YAGA! into Tony Price's shop to get the first carburetor tune. We had set the idle at about 1300 during the break in period so we would protect the cam while sitting in traffic.

I had noticed that the 350 just wouldn't pull hard from 1-2 and a punch from 3rd to 2nd was not as responsive as it should be... had to really stand on it hard. The Trans-Go kit was working fine, it just felt like we were driving with 4,000 pounds in the bed... lots of RPM's but no serious scoot!

Tony looked around and noticed that the linkage was binding, so we weren't getting WOT like we should. So we made a quick revision to the linkage, dropped the idle to 700 rpm, set the timing to 12°, adjusted the idle mixture screws and viola! All done. Anyone in the Portland area who wants a real guru to dial in your motor... You can't do much better than Tony. Besides, we talk about his drag racing while he's working, and he's always good for a story or two.

Took BABA YAGA! out and it was like driving a totally new truck! The 350 is responsive and pulls hard in all gears, shifts are firm and instantaneous. BABA YAGA! really lifts the front end when you stand on it... Man I wish gas wasn't going back up!

[Super_Dave]

Friday, my #2 son and I drove to Oregon City and met an old timer Chevy Dealer Mechanic. Had all the dope on the 50's-60's Chevy's. Nice guy and a cool shop too. Our visit was to check into a $50 Can-O-Pee for BABA YAGA! Didn't hold too much hope, but when we got there it was definitely worth the $50.

It Should work for the next year or two until I have BABA YAGA! lowered, shortened, painted and upholstered. Then BABA YAGA! gets a crew cut in the form of a flush fitting tonneau cover. In the meantime, BABA YAGA! is sporting a Red, White and Blue theme for the 4th of July!

[Super_Dave]

Today, #2 and I had to fix an exhaust leak at the header flange. I had ordered a set of Remflex gaskets, (anyone wanting trouble free gaskets for all performance levels... REMFLEX!). Pulled the bolts from the Heddman Ceramic Hedders and popped off the new gaskets that came with the headers. Take my advice: DO NOT USE THE GASKETS THAT HEDMAN SHIPS WITH THEIR HEADERS! And while we are at it: DO NOT USE THE HEADER BOLTS THAT COME FROM HEDMAN! THEY WILL RUST AND CORRODE IN A MATTER OF DAYS!!

Rant over. Looking at both Header gaskets showed multiple blowouts. In fact, the two center exhaust ports had a blowout 2" wide across the top and extending all the way down to the bottom of the ports. Not bad for 1,200 miles, huh?!

Talked to ARP and they recommended 3/4" header bolts... with the Hedman .25" flange and the .125" Remflex Gaskets and the .0625" star washers, it's not going to work. Go with the 1" bolts. My 3/4" are on the way back for replacement with 1".

Remflex says to crush the gaskets 50% when tightening the header bolts. The graphite based gasket material is pliable and will expand back out against the heads and headers. We did as advised and cranked BABA YAGA! up... Music to my ears! Runs a lot quieter under normal throttle, so all the leaks were adding to the noise factor. With multiple leaks, it was difficult to tell how much noise they were responsible for until the crappy Headman gaskets were replaced..

According to Remflex, you don't need to go back and re-torque the header bolts. Since I have to replace the crappy Headman bolts with 1" ARPs', it will be interesting to see if they backed off at all.

NICE BLOWOUT... HUH! Looked like this all over the both gaskets. I have serious questions about using anything from HEDMAN again.

[patrickth]

Just dropped in to say hello. My truck has been nickle and dime tricks to me lately. I haven't spent any time on it though, been busy with a 68 Pontiac Le Mans OHC-6 I am going to flip. Got to get a new power steering hose and still haven't done the window register.

[chvtrkman]

This looks like an interesting build... will try to follow along when I can. BTW: I don't know if you're taking a poll or not, but my vote on the paint scheme would be #9 or #11.

[UKNOWME]

I must've missed it somewhere but why do you call it BABA YAGA?
BTW I like these paint schemes above better than the Bel Air ones from you other post.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by UKNOWME

I must've missed it somewhere but why do you call it BABA YAGA?
BTW I like these paint schemes above better than the Bel Air ones from you other post.

BABA YAGA comes from the movie John Wick. It's what the Russian mob called John Wick.

As for the paint schemes, I have several months to determine the direction I want to go in. I like the schemes in this thread but I also like the thought of the '56 theme. At some point, one will win out over the other.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by chvtrkman

This looks like an interesting build... will try to follow along when I can. BTW: I don't know if you're taking a poll or not, but my vote on the paint scheme would be #9 or #11.

Thanks for the input.

I started another thread about a 1974 BelAir Concept located here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...93#post7209093 . I had this wild hare idea about using the fleet side to imitate a '56 Belair. Going to make the final design decision difficult.

[tucsonjwt]

I don't know if you did your door pins yet, but I recommend OEM GM door pins and bushings only - still available online or at your local GM dealer.

They come in multi packs, so I bought multiple sets equivalent to the pack size and sold the remaining pins/bushings here in the for sale section.

I have a thread on my pin and bushing install if you search for it - might help you find a good source.

Speaking of sources for OEM, I like:

www.oewarehouse.com
www.oehq.com
www.davesauto.com
www.gmpartsdirect.com
www.rockauto.com

Also, search ebay and Amazon once you have the OEM part number.

I have purchased parts from all of these sources and have had no problems.

I have no cherry picker, so I built a short platform out of old 2 x 4 s to support the door bottom when removing and reinstalling the doors - worked good for me.

New pins and bushings made a huge difference on door closing. The power door lock and window wiring had to come out but it was not too much of a hassle.

[Super_Dave]

tucsonjwt,

I got the pins and bushings from Rock Auto. I haven't done the job yet because I was waiting for my son to assist me. He has since moved, so my wife and I will take a run at it this summer.

Thanks for the link to the vendors. It's nice to know who others use and trust.

[Super_Dave]

I thought I would post a video of BABA YAGA running.

Nice 010 Block 355 SBC. 4/6 static drop this Spring, along with body and paint. Interior after that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkYS...ature=youtu.be

[Drizzle]

Sounds really good man

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by Drizzle

Sounds really good man

Thanks. We are looking for an inexpensive second bowtie vehicle to run when Baba Yaga is offline. Depending on what we find, we may be doing a second engine build for Baba Yaga and putting the current engine in the second vehicle... All depends what we find.

[midnight rambler]

coming along truck is looking nice

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by midnight rambler

coming along truck is looking nice

Thanks.

I have a couple of contracts to fulfill which should generate some discretionary revenue to get on it this Spring. I need to find a Chevy driver to keep me on the road and still be worth keeping after the C20 is back online. Don't need any extra vehicles that don't serve a regular purpose.

[Super_Dave]

Well... I finally have some discretionary income to use on BABA YAGA! However, as usually happens, the wife has other ideas. So, after satisfying most of her wants, I can now start on the long awaited build. If I don't, she will re-purpose all the funds!

With the money pool depleted by more than I would have liked, I am forced to reconsider some of the initial plans, such as the 1979 C10 suspension swap. Keeping the C20 suspension will save me money that can be used elsewhere.

We purchased a low mileage Buick Regal as a fill in vehicle while the truck is off the road. It will eventually take the place of the wife's 215K mile Camry once it bites the dust.

I have the wheels picked out, along with tires. According to my calculations, my current setup (235/85/16) has a total tire/wheel height of 31.73". By going with a set of 18" on all four corners and 245/45/18 tires in front and 285/45/18 tires in the back, I will have a 1.42" rake without any suspension modifications.

The front tires are 9.6" wide and there rears are 11.2" wide. The truck as whole will be lower to the ground but the body and suspension relationship will still be unchanged.

The stock front ride height will drop 5.05" and the stock rear ride height will drop 3.63" just from the reduced sidewall and overall diameter. The plan calls for changing over the wheels ans tires and seeing how much of a change needs to be done to the static drop relative to the chassis and body relationship to get the overall look I want.


Clearly, the rear will need some additional help. By removing the rear overload springs and one leaf from the spring pack, I should get another 1.5". Flipping the axle on top of the stock spring pack will net about 4". So far neither option will cost any money and the frame hasn't been cut. Additional options are lowering shackles and spring hangers.

Once we nail down the mild suspension mods, it goes to the trans shop to have an Art Carr 2004r transmission installed to replace the TH350. Since the 2004r is a bolt in affair and no drive-line shortening is anticipated, the only concern is maintaining the proper pinion angle. The final drive ratio with my 3:73 gears and the 2004r, should give me a 2:50 highway cruising number. Then I won't need a loan to go for a drive farther than the local Post Office.

Next on the list is the body and paint. I have decided to forego the 1974 Belair concept due to finances, and will focus on one of the BABA YAGA! paint schemes.

Lastly is the upholstery and carpet. I have a decent quote for Leather and Tweed and look forward to having the majority done by mid-summer... if all goes as planned and I don't have any more funds re-purposed.

[slotard]

Regarding rake you're looking at tire diameter, it's radius that contributes to ride height so you'll get .71" rake.

How much space do you have between the top of your leaf and your frame rail? The thicker leaf pack and larger tube diameter of the C20 (vs C10) mean that you get more drop from an axle flip. If you're doing the flip anyway, removing the overloads won't do all that much (other than soften the ride).

I'd go for a basic 4L80E rather than a 2004R but the 2004R is an easier swap. On the other hand, if you won't be doing any towing/hauling I imagine it should be ok.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by slotard

Regarding rake you're looking at tire diameter, it's radius that contributes to ride height so you'll get .71" rake.

Good point.

Originally Posted by slotard

How much space do you have between the top of your leaf and your frame rail? The thicker leaf pack and larger tube diameter of the C20 (vs C10) mean that you get more drop from an axle flip.

I have 4.5" from the top of the leaf pack to the bottom of the frame rail and 3.75" from the top of the leaf pack to the top of the axle tube and

Originally Posted by slotard

If you're doing the flip anyway, removing the overloads won't do all that much (other than soften the ride).

Pretty much the biggest reason for taking them off... with or without the flip.

Originally Posted by slotard

I'd go for a basic 4L80E rather than a 2004R but the 2004R is an easier swap. On the other hand, if you won't be doing any towing/hauling I imagine it should be ok.

I will only be using it for hauling occasional sheet goods as a shop truck. The rest will be cruising around town and on the highway as mobile advertising.

[slotard]

14FF axle tubes (that's what my '73 C20 has, so I'll assume you have one too) are 3 3/8" diameter. If you do the axle flip without doing anything else, that leaves 1 1/8" suspension travel (axle to frame distance = leaf to frame - axle diameter) unless you notch it. Add in a softer spring thanks to pulling the overloads and it'll be even less uptravel. You'll need to notch the frame.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by slotard

14FF axle tubes (that's what my '73 C20 has, so I'll assume you have one too) are 3 3/8" diameter. If you do the axle flip without doing anything else, that leaves 1 1/8" suspension travel (axle to frame distance = leaf to frame - axle diameter) unless you notch it. Add in a softer spring thanks to pulling the overloads and it'll be even less uptravel. You'll need to notch the frame.

Having not done a flip, and with new KYB's on all corners, what kind of travel will be needed/recommended for "normal" (subjective, I know...) driving conditions? Trying to determine, if a notch is needed, just how much should I chop... I know the "kits" already have it built in, but thinking my body guy might be able to take a smaller bite out and box the rails...