Should the green wire on lightswitch get 12v

[K10-Kansas]

My dash light wont come on. I see my gray dash light wire has 0 volts. I tested the green wire at the switch and it also has zero volts. Should the green wire show 12v?I turned on the headlights and turned the rheostat just to make sure.

[Steeveedee]

You should get power there if the rheostat is turned to the stop going counterclockwise. You should feel it click in. If no power, probably the switch itself.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

You should get power there if the rheostat is turned to the stop going counterclockwise. You should feel it click in. If no power, probably the switch itself.

Ok thanks. Since the green had no power I checked the orange and also no power there.. Turns out, my parking light fuse was blown. Put in another fuse and it blew. Disconnected the rear parking light harness at the rear and still blew. Disconnected the rear lights harness at the dash and it blew. Clipped the left (easy to solder back together) and it blew. Clipped the right and the next fuse didn't blow. My 12v driver's front parking wire definitely is touching a ground.

[PbFut]

Be careful in that area. The primary splice running the unfused alternator power, and full load battery power (Possibly unfused as most unknowingly remove the fuse link between the service block and battery, is right in that drivers side area. That same splice also runs unfused to the firewall to power the cab and instruments and lights. Up until a few hours ago, I did not realize just how hot the splice in this area is electrically. The power to the front lights and the markers runs in the same main harness. If things are shorting and getting hot, you will have a harness fire is no time.

[RustyPile]

K10-Kansas, Repair those wires you cut, buy the tool on this link.. https://www.toolaid.com/product/25100

Install it in the place of the blowing fuse, and turn on the lights.. Follow the instructions for using it and it will take you by the hand and lead you directly to the short..

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

K10-Kansas, Repair those wires you cut, buy the tool on this link.. https://www.toolaid.com/product/25100

Install it in the place of the blowing fuse, and turn on the lights.. Follow the instructions for using it and it will take you by the hand and lead you directly to the short..

Oh, have you used it? I bought a wire tone wire tracker and so far it can't even find a short on scrap wire I put together for a test. Tone wire trackers apparently aren't intended to be used to find shorts.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by K10-Kansas

Oh, have you used it? I bought a wire tone wire tracker and so far it can't even find a short on scrap wire I put together for a test. Tone wire trackers apparently aren't intended to be used to find shorts.

I sure have.. Started using one over 50 years ago.. I designed my first one myself.. The tool uses an induction meter to "sense" the current flow, and a circuit breaker in place of the fuse.. Click on the link I posted.. When it comes up, click on "instructions".. It's a simple design and very easy to use.. Like I said, it will take you by the hand and lead you directly to the short.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I sure have.. Started using one over 50 years ago.. I designed my first one myself.. The tool uses an induction meter to "sense" the current flow, and a circuit breaker in place of the fuse.. Click on the link I posted.. When it comes up, click on "instructions".. It's a simple design and very easy to use.. Like I said, it will take you by the hand and lead you directly to the short.

Great. I went ahead and bought one

[K10-Kansas]

Turns out, my add-on front parking lights were the self-grounding type and kept blowing my parking lamp fuse thus killing my dash lights. I cut off the metal bracket that caused them to ground out.

I had added these to the truck because the PO put on a 67 bumper so I didn't have front parking lights.

[Steeveedee]

Good to see a solution!