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Old 03-25-2019, 09:37 AM   #26
SunSoaked
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

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Originally Posted by straight6chevyguy View Post
Am I just really stupid or is that a ford solenoid?

I can't answer your first question cause I don't know you. But yes, that's a Ford solenoid. I use them on my vehicles to help prevent heatsoak when running headers. It also makes dealing with the starter easier cause you get the wire connections up where you can reach them.

Regarding the fusible links, I buy them in bulk (10') at Napa for the same price as a single link with a crimped on ring connector.
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:28 PM   #27
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

Glad you got it figured out man!
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:35 PM   #28
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

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Originally Posted by SunSoaked View Post
I can't answer your first question cause I don't know you. But yes, that's a Ford solenoid. I use them on my vehicles to help prevent heatsoak when running headers. It also makes dealing with the starter easier cause you get the wire connections up where you can reach them
I'm still learning about all these trucks and this was just the first time I had seen this done.

My first thought was "that don't look right". LOL
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1965 chevy c20 292 4speed http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=777601
1976 chevy c10 250 4speed http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=787037
1998 chevy c1500 4.3L 5speed (My current driver)
2002 Chevy s10 4.3L auto 4x4
1971 mercury monterey wagon 400 auto
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Old 03-27-2019, 03:20 PM   #29
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

Just an FYI, in my case, dual start batteries in good shape is what helps starter heat soak the most. You will still get drag on the starter when hot, but with all of the smog junk on my 83 (and all trucks of this vintage) the starter is so close to the manifold heat shield you can't stop the heat soak. My 73 C20 454 had the same problem, but the remote solenoid, high torque starter, and dual start batteries mostly fixed the problem, since there was more space between the starter and the exhaust manifold.

In Tucson and Phoenix all vehicles manufactured after 1966 have to go through emissions. The rest of the state is exempt. I just took the C20 through emissions and, as usual, the truck got the thorough "anal emissions exam," complete with checking the emissions handbook, looking for all of the underhood smog junk, looking for the presence of catalytic converters (which my truck does not have - considered as an "exempt heavy truck" (i.e. 3/4 ton and up.) So, if I want to keep the truck on the road I have to keep all of the smog junk.

The state recently passed a law allowing old vehicles which are insured as a collectibles (insured with Haggerty or the like) and driven a very limited number of miles, not used for any practical purpose, to be exempt from emissions. I doubt that Haggerty would insure my old heap, and the few times I drive the truck it will always be for a practical purpose, like using the dump feature or getting building supplies.
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Old 03-27-2019, 03:31 PM   #30
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

I've always wondered if you could register it in another (exempt) county, get a P.O. box and forward your mail to your current residence. I'm in Yuma and I know a few California guys five miles away in Winterhaven who do just that. You can renew the registration for up to 5 years at a whack.
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Old 03-27-2019, 06:21 PM   #31
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

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Originally Posted by tucsonjwt View Post
Just an FYI, in my case, dual start batteries in good shape is what helps starter heat soak the most. You will still get drag on the starter when hot, but with all of the smog junk on my 83 (and all trucks of this vintage) the starter is so close to the manifold heat shield you can't stop the heat soak. My 73 C20 454 had the same problem, but the remote solenoid, high torque starter, and dual start batteries mostly fixed the problem, since there was more space between the starter and the exhaust manifold.

In Tucson and Phoenix all vehicles manufactured after 1966 have to go through emissions. The rest of the state is exempt. I just took the C20 through emissions and, as usual, the truck got the thorough "anal emissions exam," complete with checking the emissions handbook, looking for all of the underhood smog junk, looking for the presence of catalytic converters (which my truck does not have - considered as an "exempt heavy truck" (i.e. 3/4 ton and up.) So, if I want to keep the truck on the road I have to keep all of the smog junk.

The state recently passed a law allowing old vehicles which are insured as a collectibles (insured with Haggerty or the like) and driven a very limited number of miles, not used for any practical purpose, to be exempt from emissions. I doubt that Haggerty would insure my old heap, and the few times I drive the truck it will always be for a practical purpose, like using the dump feature or getting building supplies.
What smog 'junk' do you have under the hood? Can't imagine a 73 having much.
*EDIT* Just re-read the original posting for help & noticed it's an 83 that had this issue. The 73 you mentioned was a previous truck.
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Old 03-29-2019, 05:11 PM   #32
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

Yup. Some people use a non-residence address outside of Pima and Maricopa counties to register their vehicles. Of course, that would be unlawful. Also, if you have an insurance claim and the insurance company discovers that you are not parking your vehicle at your stated residence (i.e. insurance fraud) you might not get your claim settled and/or they might drop your insurance. Also, insurance rates are heavily dependent on where you live. If your insurance "parking" address is out in the boonies where nobody drives except you and the human smugglers, then your insurance will be cheaper, and that is also a form of insurance fraud.

The insurance companies communicate electronically with ADOT (Arizona Department of Transportation.) I used to buy a new truck or SUV every 6 months. Whenever I sold the vehicles and got another new one, ADOT would get a "cancellation notice" from my insurance company. Since the car dealer who got my 6 month old vehicle as a trade in on a new one took weeks or months to submit the title of the new owner, ADOT always sent me a threatening letter to let me know that I must re-insure the vehicle I sold. So, this scheme is not a simple as it sounds, but I am sure many know how to work the system.

I will stay on the right side of the law and put up with the smog inspections every year. I am sure that significantly reduces the carbon footprint of my little 454 big block engine and saves the planet from global warming (or climate change, or whatever it is now.)
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Old 03-29-2019, 05:15 PM   #33
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

My old truck does not qualify for 5 year registration. It has to get emissions tested every year. Cars with OBD II can get 2 years. I did not know of any 5 year registrations without emissions.
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Old 03-29-2019, 05:26 PM   #34
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

Here in Yuma, I get the option of 1,2 or 5 year renewal. Been like that as long as I can remember, regardless of vehicle.
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Old 03-30-2019, 07:38 PM   #35
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Re: Replaced frayed wire - now no start

Yup - you are correct. I need to move to the beautiful Yuma area.

Most vehicles registered outside the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas
Vehicles with model year 1966 and older
New vehicles that have never been registered in Arizona or in any other state
Motorcycles
Commercially registered trailers 10,000 lbs GVW and less
Solar, electric and hydrogen powered alternative fuel vehicles

Looks like emissions exempt or new vehicles can get 5 years.
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