Issues starting

[Hook'em]

I had a new engine put in the truck about a year ago. In the last 3 months or so, I have had some issues getting the truck to turn-over. The battery is new and once it engages, it starts pretty easily. Sometimes when I turn the key it takes a second for the starter to engage. Today, I had a 20 minute period where turning the key did nothing but make one of the idiot lights come on. No click, no nothing, complete silence. I wiggled some wires behind the ignition to no avail. I eventually wiggled some wires around the distributor cap (HEI) and then it started. I'm not sure if wiggling those wires made a difference or if it was purely coincidental. Once I got back home, I started it several times, but a few times there was the delay.

That's my back story. My question has to do with what I need to check (maybe what order) to determine where the problem lies. Trying to figure out if the starter is going out, if there is something wrong with the distributor cap, if there is a wiring issue...

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

[cdowns]

Maybe start by cleaning up the contacts where the wires go on the starter and grounds and battery cables too you cant have too clean a contact as far as wires are concerned just wiggiling things is a poor try

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by cdowns

Maybe start by cleaning up the contacts where the wires go on the starter and grounds and battery cables too you cant have too clean a contact as far as wires are concerned just wiggiling things is a poor try

what he said

[beetle1960]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

what he said

what they said...if you still have issues check solenoid.

[MagmaJct]

I HATE intermittent problems. Especially when I need a helper.

If I had the symptoms you are having, I'd do the following checks:

A helper will be almost mandatory. While attempting to crank, check the battery voltage at the terminals. Does it drop at all? Check the voltage DROP from the positive terminal to the positive terminal cable clamp. Do the same for the negative side, both tests while trying to crank. Voltage DROP should be near 0. If it's anything radical, like 11 volts, there's your "smoking gun".

Next, I'd check the DROP from the positive terminal to the starter terminal. Be careful in case it starts cranking! Next, check to ensure voltage is actually getting from the ignition switch, to the solenoid. You can also check for DROP there as well.

[Zeke's Garage]

This is kind of working backwards, but I'm usually without a helper, so you have to get creative.

Get a remote starter switch, something like this, should only be about $15 at most parts stores. Then you connect the remote starter to the large battery connection at the starter, and the other lead to the solenoid switch, usually the one next to the block with the purple wire on it.

MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL! I've nearly run myself over twice doing this... Yes that's a sad statement for so many reasons.

Hit the button on the remote starter and see if it engages quickly and completely. If so, then your solenoid should be good, as are your battery connections.

At this point check the connection at the purple solenoid wire, and trace it back up the harness to the plug on the firewall and make sure there are no breaks or rubs through the insulation. If you've got an automatic, check the neutral safety switch for contenuity and poor adjustment while trying to start the truck and 'wiggling' the shifter lever between park and neutral.

I'm betting you'll find a weak spot on the wire going to the solenoid while you're testing. Most likely you'll find a huge wad of electrical tape covering up a splice done with wire nuts and lamp cord, if you're fortunate enough to have a truck as nice as mine