11-17-2017, 07:05 PM | #1 |
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Location: Brownwood, Texas
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lizard skin paint
So I have been working on my 64 c10 and doing the paint with little trouble since i bought a good gun. but I am redoing both doors since they did not look good with prior gun. I had applied clear coat so I sanded both down to what I thought was the basecoat but when I sprayed them this afternoon I had a couple of places that now look like lizard skin. I am using Martin Senour Crossfire Platinum.
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11-17-2017, 07:16 PM | #2 |
Post Whore
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Re: lizard skin paint
orange peel...sounds like
the google explanation.... Orange peel is typically the result of improper painting technique, and is caused by the quick evaporation of thinner, incorrect spray gun setup (e.g., low air pressure or incorrect nozzle), spraying the paint at an angle other than perpendicular, or applying excessive paint.
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Mongo...aka Greg RIP Dad RIP Jesse 1981 C30 LQ9 NV4500..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753598 Mongos AD- LS3 TR6060...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post8522334 Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...63#post8082563 2023 Chevy Z71..daily driver Last edited by mongocanfly; 11-17-2017 at 09:44 PM. |
11-17-2017, 07:46 PM | #3 |
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Re: lizard skin paint
no this is not orange peal I know what that looks like and now that I have new gun I have very little of that. I wish I could take picture it is actually very rough similar to a craze
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11-17-2017, 09:43 PM | #4 |
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Re: lizard skin paint
time to call in a pro....Martin or Stomper?
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Mongo...aka Greg RIP Dad RIP Jesse 1981 C30 LQ9 NV4500..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753598 Mongos AD- LS3 TR6060...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post8522334 Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...63#post8082563 2023 Chevy Z71..daily driver |
11-17-2017, 11:29 PM | #5 |
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Re: lizard skin paint
Need pictures. Could be the solvents in the new paint lifting the old paint. If that's the case, you're screwed. It all needs to come off down to primer, then re-sealed and painted.
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11-18-2017, 10:45 AM | #6 |
Lost amongst the CORN
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Re: lizard skin paint
If you sanded down to the basecoat my money is the solvents from the new paint attacked the old basecoat causing it to lift.
The fix IMO is to go to bare metal and be done with it. Depending on the strength of the solvents, the solvents can also attack primers.
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11-18-2017, 11:02 AM | #7 |
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Re: lizard skin paint
Thanks to everyone for your help I also checked Uribe and found video explaining that the solvent is probably the cause. Wish now that I should have ask y'all what paint to use. Looks like I now have lost a lot of time, will start over on both doors oh well time is all I have now since I am retired
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11-19-2017, 12:50 PM | #8 |
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Re: lizard skin paint
The C10 was likely painted in lacquer so the new urethane systems are "hotter" solvents so when in contact, the urethane solvents attack the lacquer. See picture for a personal example where this happened to me.
You can seal the pre existing lacquer coating, but this step can be tricky if you don't know what you are doing. There is absolutely no need to strip the doors where you have no "crazing" where the lacquer freaked out. WHere you have a good result, leave it alone. Go to your local paint supply store, ask them for their product that will seal your affected areas and respray. The challenge you face after sanding off the crazed coatings you will have a feather edge to the paint that is in good shape. It is exactly this feather edge area that reveal a small amount of the previous lacquer paint and if you just paint it again, chances are it will craze there too. A sealer in this area will deal down the lacquer and provide an intermediate coat that will also accept the new urethane coating you are using. Depending on the size of the areas that are crazed and your threshold for quality of job vs time and money, you may decide to strip the entire door but you do not HAVE TO strip it. Show us pictures OP, we like pictures.
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So when is this "Old enough to know better" supposed to kick in? My 1959 GMC build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=686989 |
11-20-2017, 12:43 AM | #9 |
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Re: lizard skin paint
Foot stomped thanks for the picture now I will try to upload one. Old paint is not the problem ask this is a new skin I put on and had painted but found a scratch that did not show up till I clear coated it. This truck was bought new by my father in law he loaned it to a friend who ran into a post repaired with 10 pound's of Bondi. From what I see on utube it was caused by my poor choice of paint or the reducer they use just my luck. Hope this works
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11-20-2017, 12:04 PM | #10 |
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Re: lizard skin paint
Thanks for the pictures as they really help.
You have without doubt, lacquer on that door. What kind of primer have you been using? Rattle can? Did you you lacquer putty perhaps to fill some small scratches? Show us pictures of the primer and glaze putty and I'll bet we find your problem... one way or another there's lacquer there.
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So when is this "Old enough to know better" supposed to kick in? My 1959 GMC build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=686989 |
11-20-2017, 03:01 PM | #11 |
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Re: lizard skin paint
The do0r skin came from LMC and I used 2 part epoxy primer. As I said earlier this was second time I painted it had scratch after first time. This is the only panel that this happened to all others are good.
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