47 chevy 2 ton question

[rollreckless]

I got myself into a project as said above:

47 chevy 6800
16000 lb gross weight
216ci
2 speed rear dually
solid frame
floor pan holes
motor still has compression
Some rust holes in corners/ typical areas.. nothing terrible though.

my question is... I kinda bought into this blindly without much knowledge on stove bolts and I was wondering if this truck is really going to be worth much of anything before i dump a lot of money into it. it was an old central hudson gas and electric work truck.

Is this a desired body style or should i have been looking harder for a 3/4 ton?

thanks ahead of time guys!

[buggy5872]

Big Bolts don't really bring any money. If you are restoring it for resale you will lose money. Most that build something that size are planning on keeping it or using it for a specific purpose. There are some exceptions but not many. Cab Over Engine trucks are hot right now but could be cold in a year or two.

[mr48chev]

It all depends on what you want to do with it. The guys over on http://www.aths.org/ love those big trucks and the bigger the better and they love ones with a history.

A lot of guys here hunt those trucks for the cabs to swap to their stock 1/2 ton frames or to swap to S-10 frames to build custom trucks.

I would have to think that no matter how much money you put in the truck it is only going to be worth 4 to 6 thousand dollars max if it is close to perfect. That is if it is nicely restored to stock and done up either showroom stock or done up in the livery of the company it belonged to or possibly a fictional company such as Rollreckless Freight works. The biggest difference in cost is going to be in tires brakes and what ever you put on it for a bed. Engine parts, interior parts and small stuff will cost the same as they would restoring a half or 3/4 ton.

[studda]

Definitely won't be as easy to sell as a 1/2, 3/4, or even a 1 ton but they still make nice, fun projects. I'm currently working on a '53 1 1/2 ton with a 216 in it that isn't worth a lot of money, but I sure have fun working on it and it's fun to drive. I have maybe $650 tied up in it and have gotten it to running and driving condition minus brakes, but wheel cylinder rebuild kits can be DIY installed for under $100 for all four wheels. It looks like you have useable tires, which is a money saver. If you want to drive it and have fun, it doesn't take a lot of money to get these trucks up and running. I don't know about NY but here in Missouri, I don't even have to get mine inspected to get it licensed as long as I drive it less than 1000 miles per year for personal use and can drive it to as many shows as I want. I'm going to patch my rusted metal with sheet metal from Tractor Supply that can be bought cheap and then just paint it with Oliver tractor green Van Sickle, a single stage enamel made for farm implements that can be bought for $30 a gallon. Good luck and have fun with it. It looks like a cool truck. I like the short wheelbase and I wish mine had the two speed rear. Here's my '53 4400 if you want to check it out:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=608606

The only difference in the 1 1/2 and 2 ton and the 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton is the frame, rearend, front fenders, hood, and front bumper. The cab and all interior/engine components are exactly the same.

[Trekster]

What do you want to do with it? It looks fairly complete so if you want a two ton truck, you're set. On the other hand, you have a 5 window cab that is desirable that you could use to set on a newer frame. I like the build it as a two ton and use drive it. Again, what do you want to do with it?

[studda]

I originally bought mine to put the cab on a later model 4X4 frame. The fact that I put less than $100 into it to have a running truck changed my mind. As Trekster said, you can do whatever you want with it. I was going to use a full size 4X4 frame because the track width is wider and the body would be too wide for an S10 frame. With the bigger wheel opening in the front, you could at least put 35 inch tires in the front. The stock 7.5X20 are around 35 inches tall.

[ETsC10]

Originally Posted by Trekster

What do you want to do with it? It looks fairly complete so if you want a two ton truck, you're set. On the other hand, you have a 5 window cab that is desirable that you could use to set on a newer frame. I like the build it as a two ton and use drive it. Again, what do you want to do with it?

That was my first thought, too...

[rollreckless]

Well for under 100$ I can get the motor running and 12v converted. Which is what I'mworking on now. it seems like it'llrun and drive. II'm just waiting on parts. So I was just gonna do some body work flat red paint and drive it around and eventually sell it. So mainly I'll have time invested into it. Have any of you seen the front brush guards like that? It has a chevy symbol on it.. I'mwwondering if it's factory and if it's rare/ should illeave it on or remove it?

[studda]

I'd just leave the brush guard on it and, when you sell it, the new owner can decide whether they want it or not. Unfortunately, I know nothing about it, as to whether it's custom or factory.

[rollreckless]

Alright guys I have another question if it's not too much trouble. I can't seem to get spark. I have the hot wire from ignition running to a ballast resistor and then the hot on thecoil.. Hot on coil to condensor, and then negative grounded on block. I crank the motor with the foot pedal and I have one plug wire attached to a separate spark plug grounded to block to check for spark and nothing lol. Idk why it's not. Any ideas??

[rollreckless]

Here'swwhat it looks like.

[studda]

Have you checked to make sure you have current coming into the coil? I didn't have spark on mine either and changed the coil, points, and condenser and that gave it life. Check to see if you have any spark coming from the coil and, if you do, check your points and condenser. Just take the coil wire off just like you did with the plug wire in the picture and test it. If you don't have spark going from the coil to the distributor, the coil is probably bad or there is no electric coming to the coil. Also, test for spark against the engine or other bare metal. The way you have it, in order for it to spark, it would have to spark on the plug you have on the end of the wire and on the plug in the engine simultaneously.

[Flthead]

I have a 2 ton rolling chassis if you need any parts . I hate to junk it and have been holding onto it in case someone needs parts . Located in southern nj . If you need any parts for chassis. I do have a big truck hood and grille . I dig these big ol trucks

[rollreckless]

The coil gets warm and the resistor gets hot. So when I turn the ignition on I know it should have power. But I'll check. And does the condensor really make that much of a difference?

[rollreckless]

As far as the truck goes it's rusty but pretty complete. I'll keep you in mind for sure if i do happen to need anything though! Thanks FLT.

[studda]

Without the condenser, there will be an arc across the points gap and eventually burn them out if they aren't already. The condenser charges up while the points are open and releases voltage at just the right moment.

[rollreckless]

Alright. Well I'm gonna use the cap that's on it now to check for spark so if it is bad it can burn out the old set. But I think my first time around I hooked up the coil without the resistor so I may have burned it out. Idk yet though. I'll test and get back to you. Thanks studda. I really appreciate it.

[studda]

It was my pleasure. Good luck with it. They are pretty easy to get going. It just takes a little time to track down the problem.

[mrolds88]

While not really super familiar with the old 6v systems, I have a few questions. 1. Are you using a 6v coil?
2. If you are using a 6v coil, do you need the ballast resistor? (Might try it without it)
3. This might be a dumb one, but, positive terminal to the power and negative to the distributor?
If the points are good and set, and condenser is good, then it has to be in the coil setup. If everything is good, when the points are closed and power is run to them, you should be able to lift the one side of the points off the oher and hear/see a small arc.

[rollreckless]

There are never stupid questions my friend! I'm using a 12v battery, and a 12v coil that needs an external ballast. It actually says on the coil to use external resistor. So it's down to 9v roughly. I haven't tried studdas idea of checking the coil for spark. It was 8 degrees here so I said F that lol. But also Idk the condition of the condensor. So ill buy the repair kit tomorrow at napa for like 10$ and throw it in. But I'm kinda banking on the whole idea of the coil being burnt from my stupid self not using it the first time with a resistor. .. Although I didn't let it get all too hot before i thought it was going to grenade and I disconnected it.

[studda]

I almost forgot. Check your distributor cap and rotor too. If they are too corroded, no electricity will flow from rotor to cap. To test your coil, just unplug the coil wire and see if it arcs on the motor or body of the truck. Just watch out, it'll shock you if you're too close to the end, if it works, that is.

[rollreckless]

Well they were a tiny bit burnt when i first opened them but i took a fine file and cleaned them up.

[Katrina/10]

You don't need the ballast resistor just to check for spark. It isn't normally used during cranking.

[rollreckless]

Alright so I tested the wire for power with ignition on and there is power. If the hot wire was on the coil hot and it was properly grounded it should make spark without me even cranking it if I just touched the coil wire to a good ground area on the block right? Since there is power going to it? I tried that and no spark. Good thing advanced is gonna replace it as defective. But that should be the issue, correct?

[rollreckless]

And Gary I'm using a 12v battery not 6. So I'm using the resistor because the coil calls for an external resistor.