Any hope of fixing this? Chips/flakes fell on clear coat.

[dz1087]

After letting the final coat of clear settle for about an hour, I was pulling tape so I could get the truck out to get some sun. While pulling the plastic I had covering the white cab, a bunch of epoxy primer and base coat flakes cane off and landed on the clear. I was able to blow and wipe most of them off, but I have a lot remaining that seem to be rather stuck to the outside of the clear.

What options do I have? I was thinking waiting a few weeks and then wet sanding. Any other ideas?

[nsb29]

Wet sanding should work how many coats of clear

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by nsb29

Wet sanding should work how many coats of clear

I put three coats on.

[nsb29]

4 would have been better but you should be able to sand it out

[Foot Stomper]

The sooner you get on it with wet sanding and buffing the easier/better your results will be.

Some clears can be very hard buff after a couple weeks.

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

The sooner you get on it with wet sanding and buffing the easier/better your results will be.

Some clears can be very hard buff after a couple weeks.

That’s kind of what I was hoping for. I figured in a few weeks the clear would be hard and it Wilson be just a little harder to burn through it while wet sanding. The flakes are all on the very top of the clear so I was thinking with a hard clear more pressure could be put on the flakes.

Is that thinking wrong?

[nsb29]

What brand clear did you use? Use a stick or a hard block so you remove the flakes without removing any more clear than you have to! You don’t need a lot of pressure Or speed let the compound do the work for you

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by dz1087

That’s kind of what I was hoping for. I figured in a few weeks the clear would be hard and it Wilson be just a little harder to burn through it while wet sanding. The flakes are all on the very top of the clear so I was thinking with a hard clear more pressure could be put on the flakes.

Is that thinking wrong?

The harder the clear, the more difficult it is to buff the sand scratches out. Get on it ASAP.

What clear did you use?

[dz1087]

The clear was TCP Global Restoration Shop 4.2 VOC.

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by nsb29

What brand clear did you use? Use a stick or a hard block so you remove the flakes without removing any more clear than you have to! You don’t need a lot of pressure Or speed let the compound do the work for you

Not sure what you mean by stick or hard block.

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by dz1087

The clear was TCP Global Restoration Shop 4.2 VOC.

Read the technical data sheet and if it doesn't describe buffing timelines, reach out to TCP and they should be able to tell you what your best approach is.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by dz1087

Not sure what you mean by stick or hard block.

You’re sanding block some people use a paint stick you want to remove the chips with out removing any more of your clear than necessary something hard or stiff will take the tops off which are your chips something soft will sand everything more equally removing unnecessary clear

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by dz1087

The clear was TCP Global Restoration Shop 4.2 VOC.

Can be sanded and buffed after 6 to 8 hours they do not give any more information than that personally I never sander Or buff anything that soon I’d give it for five days And remember let the compound do the work you don’t need a lot of pressure or speed that’s when you get in trouble

[Willie Makeit]

you can squirt clear in the morning and sand/buff that afternoon. it's done everyday in collision shops.

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by Willie Makeit

you can squirt clear in the morning and sand/buff that afternoon. it's done everyday in collision shops.

100%!

If you're sanding slick sand, wait at least 5 days and hit it with 80 grit.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

100%!

If you're sanding slick sand, wait at least 5 days and hit it with 80 grit.

I don’t know how slicks sand got in here when this guy is asking questions about his clear but it can be sanded the next day and in some cases it can be sanded starting with 220
If it was in reference to my statement that I let my paint sit for 4 or 5 days, I don’t work in a collision shop never have. In six or eight hours your paint is still pretty soft. I feel that after 4 or 5 days I get a better finish especially on single stage paint.

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by nsb29

I don’t know how slicks sand got in here when this guy is asking questions about his clear but it can be sanded the next day and in some cases it can be sanded starting with 220
If it was in reference to my statement that I let my paint sit for 4 or 5 days, I don’t work in a collision shop never have. In six or eight hours your paint is still pretty soft. I feel that after 4 or 5 days I get a better finish especially on single stage paint.

Yes, my point is that if you leave slick sand for 4 or 5 days you will have to use 80 because it'll be too hard to sand... much easier with 220 same or next day it's applied... same hardening qualities with clear coat; the longer you leave it, the harder it is to sand. So saying leave it for 4 or 5 days is wrong. Perhaps the clear can be still sanded after 5 days or even 5 months, but it won't sand/buff as easy as 6 to 8 hours after application.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

Yes, my point is that if you leave slick sand for 4 or 5 days you will have to use 80 because it'll be too hard to sand... much easier with 220 same or next day it's applied... same hardening qualities with clear coat; the longer you leave it, the harder it is to sand. So saying leave it for 4 or 5 days is wrong. Perhaps the clear can be still sanded after 5 days or even 5 months, but it won't sand/buff as easy as 6 to 8 hours after application.

That’s not what you said! And I’m not going to waste my time arguing with you when you start doing your own work I Discuss it with you

[Willie Makeit]

jeesh

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by nsb29

You’re sanding block some people use a paint stick you want to remove the chips with out removing any more of your clear than necessary something hard or stiff will take the tops off which are your chips something soft will sand everything more equally removing unnecessary clear

So, paint stick with cutting compound on it? Or by itself?

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by dz1087

So, paint stick with cutting compound on it? Or by itself?

No you want to use sandpaper start with 1500 grit and then used 2000 grit to remove the 1500 grit scratchers. One thing to take into consideration the areas that have been sanded and buffed will have removed any orange peel you might want to consider sanding and buffing the rest of the truck while you’re at it

[pontgta]

That paint looks like its got a lot of metal flake. Any more pic? That color looks nice, and would like to see how the top color combo looks like

[Dead Parrot]

If you have some scrap metal or old body pieces, replicate the clear coat on those and sprinkle with some of the same type paint flecks. Now you can experiment without damaging your real paint job.

If the solvents are different for the paint and clear coat, might be as simple as a rag damp with paint solvent rubbed over the clear coat.

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by nsb29

No you want to use sandpaper start with 1500 grit and then used 2000 grit to remove the 1500 grit scratchers. One thing to take into consideration the areas that have been sanded and buffed will have removed any orange peel you might want to consider sanding and buffing the rest of the truck while you’re at it

Well, through my sophomoric painting skills, the orange peel isn't bad where this is anyway, so not much orange peel to remove...


Thanks for the ideas and tips. I was using a razor blade yesterday a little to see if that would work. Seems to be working well, but I'll have to sand and buff a lot of them anyhow.

[dz1087]

Originally Posted by pontgta

That paint looks like its got a lot of metal flake. Any more pic? That color looks nice, and would like to see how the top color combo looks like

Here ya go:


It’s Chevy sunburst orange metallic and Ford Oxford White. I chose the Ford color because it’s the same as my Mustang.