bleeding a hydrolic clutch - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bbchevy · 03-14-2006, 05:59 PM

hi my truck go low on clutch fluid when i went off roading because the o ring on the resovwar is gone.... the clutch went dead... how do you bleed it ... i ewntr under the truck and pushed the plunger in , and it made bubbles com out of the resovwar, but it would just keep doing that and not help it .... there is a bleeder valve ... but it doesnt seem to help much.... ?? any ideas how to do it ??

b454rat · 03-14-2006, 06:31 PM

You bleed it the same way as you do brakes. Pump, open valve, close, pump, etc. I have a hyrdo set up that I was gonna use, wanted to see if it was any good. Had water in it, but put some fluid in it, did the above steps, and it must work, I push the plunger and nothing moves. (Cylinder is rusted) Before you could hear air and fluid moving around.

Russell · 03-14-2006, 06:41 PM

Usually to bleed it entirely, you need to pull the slave cylinder off the bellhousing, and angle it in a way that the bleeder points straight up while you get a buddy to pump for you.

When it is entirely bled, you should not be able to push the pedal down at all with the slave cylinder off the bellhousing, and bleeder screw shut (less mechanical play in the clutch rod to pedal connection etc)

Once you put the slave cylinder back on, it will force some of the fluid up and into the reservoir, so don't overfill it while bleeding, you just need enough in there that it won't suck any air down into the tubes. After you've got the slave cylinder re-installed, then top the fluid off to the indicated line, and you'll be good to go

bbchevy · 03-14-2006, 07:25 PM

do you hold down the clutch pedel and then open the bleeder , or do you open it as you are pushing the pedle down and not let it bottom out >?

Russell · 03-14-2006, 08:43 PM

Do the same as bleeding brakes, have a buddy pump the pedal till it is solid, then have him hold it down while you crack the bleeder open. You should continue doing so until no more air bubbles come out of the bleeder. As soon as you crack the bleeder, the clutch pedal will fall towards the floor. Make sure you keep the reservoir full though, you don't wanna introduce fresh air into the top of the system, lol

bbchevy · 03-14-2006, 09:45 PM

hey, thanks alot it worked, it just took a while but i finally got it

Russell · 03-15-2006, 02:47 AM

Glad to hear you got it bled

Bit of a pain in the butt the first time, but goes pretty easy after that

03-14-2006, 05:59 PM	#1
bbchevy 87 Wanna Be K30 Join Date: May 2003 Location: long island, new york Posts: 218	bleeding a hydrolic clutch hi my truck go low on clutch fluid when i went off roading because the o ring on the resovwar is gone.... the clutch went dead... how do you bleed it ... i ewntr under the truck and pushed the plunger in , and it made bubbles com out of the resovwar, but it would just keep doing that and not help it .... there is a bleeder valve ... but it doesnt seem to help much.... ?? any ideas how to do it ??

03-14-2006, 06:31 PM	#2
b454rat Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Binghamton, NY Posts: 3,453	Re: bleeding a hydrolic clutch You bleed it the same way as you do brakes. Pump, open valve, close, pump, etc. I have a hyrdo set up that I was gonna use, wanted to see if it was any good. Had water in it, but put some fluid in it, did the above steps, and it must work, I push the plunger and nothing moves. (Cylinder is rusted) Before you could hear air and fluid moving around. __________________ 2000 GMC CCSB 454/4L80 6” lift SAS 1999 Chevy CCSB 454/NV4500 6” lift 1999 GMC Yukon 350/4L60 4" SAS

03-14-2006, 06:41 PM	#3
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Re: bleeding a hydrolic clutch Usually to bleed it entirely, you need to pull the slave cylinder off the bellhousing, and angle it in a way that the bleeder points straight up while you get a buddy to pump for you. When it is entirely bled, you should not be able to push the pedal down at all with the slave cylinder off the bellhousing, and bleeder screw shut (less mechanical play in the clutch rod to pedal connection etc) Once you put the slave cylinder back on, it will force some of the fluid up and into the reservoir, so don't overfill it while bleeding, you just need enough in there that it won't suck any air down into the tubes. After you've got the slave cylinder re-installed, then top the fluid off to the indicated line, and you'll be good to go __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

03-14-2006, 07:25 PM	#4
bbchevy 87 Wanna Be K30 Join Date: May 2003 Location: long island, new york Posts: 218	Re: bleeding a hydrolic clutch do you hold down the clutch pedel and then open the bleeder , or do you open it as you are pushing the pedle down and not let it bottom out >?

03-14-2006, 08:43 PM	#5
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Re: bleeding a hydrolic clutch Do the same as bleeding brakes, have a buddy pump the pedal till it is solid, then have him hold it down while you crack the bleeder open. You should continue doing so until no more air bubbles come out of the bleeder. As soon as you crack the bleeder, the clutch pedal will fall towards the floor. Make sure you keep the reservoir full though, you don't wanna introduce fresh air into the top of the system, lol __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

03-14-2006, 09:45 PM	#6
bbchevy 87 Wanna Be K30 Join Date: May 2003 Location: long island, new york Posts: 218	Re: bleeding a hydrolic clutch hey, thanks alot it worked, it just took a while but i finally got it

03-15-2006, 02:47 AM	#7
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Re: bleeding a hydrolic clutch Glad to hear you got it bled Bit of a pain in the butt the first time, but goes pretty easy after that __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)



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