The project with no name - 1970 K20

[hotsam]

That's a sweet truck man!!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by webfoot

It is superlift suspension part number 3040. Found one on eBay for $71.24.

I hadn't heard of it either til I posted that update a week or so ago, found it digging around d60 threads on another site.

They used to include that in their 12" lift kits. I have no idea why they quit doing it. Those were hard to get them to make about 4-5 years ago. I'm not sure why though. You'll be much better off with that instead of the steering block for sure.

[webfoot]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

They used to include that in their 12" lift kits. I have no idea why they quit doing it. Those were hard to get them to make about 4-5 years ago. I'm not sure why though. You'll be much better off with that instead of the steering block for sure.

It made an immediate improvement.

Snuck out of work today and put my new fuel sender in, the old one only moved under 1/4 tank. The new ones outlet fitting is at a little bit of a different angle than what I'm assuming was the OEM unit, so it was a little bit of a challenge until I bent the outer tabs of the lock rings down a little bit, then it almost fell in.

[webfoot]

Turns out if you replace the fuel sender, it creates a big void in your fuel system! I was fretting over a no-start issue til I disconnected the fuel line and very little came out. I "primed" the system by forcing air into the tank and it fired right up.

[hotsam]

That's a nice draglink... I've made a few like that for lifted cross steer setups but never seen one for stock Chevy setup. I'm sure that made a Huge difference...

[webfoot]

It looks like my overcharging issue is fixed. I installed a delco 12si internally regulated alternator this past weekend after the truck stalled and wouldn't start at an intersection. 2 guys jumped out of their car and helped me push it into a gravel lot and gave me a ride up to my house. I popped the hood and could hear the battery boiling.

The end of the hose clamp holding the lower radiator hose on interfered with the alt belt (I have a LWP setup) and caused it to flip which ruined the belt and also caused the PS belt to flip, so now I have to get 2 new belts. 2 steps forward, 1 step back.. Its nothing new is it!

I bought a new high hump off the board to replace the hacked up one I have. I think mine is a low hump so the trans sits way too high and the T-case hole was butchered in so I can't even screw the boot retainer ring down. I decided while I was at it I should also replace the molded vinyl "carpet" which is old, dirty and starting to crack. I ordered the ACC brand in grey since it will match the seats well and something different than black which is in every old ride I have owned.

Did I say I wasn't going to do my spray-in bedliner? After hearing what this costs I decided to order a kit from TCP global. This comes with tint to make it charcoal metallic so it will match the upper bed and cab, and mixes 4 liters and includes the hardener and schutz gun for $185. I figure with the short step bed it won't be too much work cleaning it up and scuffing. People 6' tall or so can see into the bed but it looks horrible in the driver's seat.

[webfoot]

Bed is sanded to prep for Bedliner, need to blow it out and power wash one more time. Hoping to shoot by the weeks end. Put that new high hump in and can't wait to have retaining rings installed. Should help with the noise. Figured while I was at it I'd replace the old black molded vinyl carpet with new grey molded. Going to let it sit til tomorrow afternoon til I finish trimming and put the seat back in.

[Dieselwrencher]

That looks very nice!!!

[webfoot]

Got the thing all trimmed up and got the seat back in. Still gotta screw the T case ring down.

Anybody know why the T case shifter would hit back of the hole in the hump before going into 4 low? I guess I see why the previous one was cut! 4wd isnt operational now anyway but I'd like to make it work someday.

[webfoot]

The ugly maroon nightmare is over! Not too difficult.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work. That looks so much nicer.

[webfoot]

Well this thing is now a driver, so now what???

I put in those new push-on door seals with the mitered corner, those sure are nice. I think the factory units may have sealed large june bugs from entering the cab, but other than that they seem kinda worthless. Only problem is it leaves a gap where the old recess was where the old seal would have covered. Oh well.

The last 2 things I'll address is to get the bearings in the dana 60 replaced and make the 4wd functional again, and install the rest of the AC stuff. A functional speedometer would be nice too.

This thing was a hell of a lot more work than I anticipated, but when isn't that the case. Now that this thing is where I want it I can focus more on my 68 GTO ragtop I stepped away from to work on this.

[Dieselwrencher]

Oh yeah, there are always a million little things that turn into months worth of work. The GTO would be nice to be driving right now. Someday, I have a 68 Buick GS400 convertible to restore. It will have to wait until a lot of other things are done first. Haha

[7dee2]

Good for you webfoot! Pretty sure you'll find stuff to do on the truck, if it's like our old blue C30 it'll let you know what it wants next. Did you use the ones from Precision, or? Debating on gluing or push on myself right now.

[Dieselwrencher]

Not to step on web foot's toes, but even after fighting my push on seals, I doubt I would go back to those pesky glue on ones IMO.

[webfoot]

Yeah, for sure it ain't done, its just done enough for now!

[$20071k10]

your 4wd shifter looks like one out of a square body

[webfoot]

Originally Posted by $20071k10

your 4wd shifter looks like one out of a square body

Ahh thanks .. I'll do some digging and see if I can track down a correct one.

[webfoot]

Looks like I haven't posted on this in a couple of digit changes!
I had some nagging ongoing issues on this which caused me to not drive it much..
First was the ride.. it was like a 40 year old tractor, and I've spent time in plenty of those.. well the KYB GR-2s I had on it were apparently for a much lighter truck (perhaps a duh moment) and although I had replaced them in the recent past they were all blown out. I replaced them all with Bilstein 5125s and WOW what an improvement. I also added a Bilstein steering damper and that also was a nice upgrade. (over not having one!)
The truck also would not start after sitting more than a day. Well duh - it needs a choke. I put one of those expensive edelbrock ones on for use with a divorced choke. Now it starts in a second or two after sitting out in the cold for a few days.

I installed some shoulder harnesses in it recently, mainly so my 6 YO son could ride in it. He LOVES this truck, maybe more than I do!

Not much to do cosmetically, I do have a redhead steering gear arriving today. anybody know of a steering pump upgrade that would complement the box well? I have heard the earlier ones are over-pressurized a bit. I already have a LWP setup so maybe I'll go to a 1975 model or so since I think the steering system was upgraded by then. This one leaks from the pressure port so its gotta go anyway.

[webfoot]

Changed out the steering gear for a unit rebuilt by Redhead. WOW what a difference! No more granny turns and I opted for the variable assist. I haven't had any real seat time in it other than going around our cul-de-sac but I like the steering in it better than my 06 2500HD.

Now my 2-3 year vac booster has gone bad already.. I think I'm going to upgrade to the 80s/early 90s booster which is still available NOS.

[webfoot]

Upgraded to the (up to) 1993 G30 booster, found a NOS one for less than the crappy new remans. To do this isn't exactly straightforward, but I did learn a new skill int the process, bending and flaring brake lines. I used Copper Nickel line, it flares and bends easy.
To use this you need to cut the booster pushrod shorter, I had a buddy of mine TIG weld it to the shaft on the new one. Stock is about 3.5% from the booster base to the center of the eye. The holes in the booster bracket need hogged out to fit the 10mm studs on the booster, and the lower pair of holes need slotted a bit. Then the lines from the proportioning valve to the booster need custom bent since the ports are switched over the original. (the matching prop valve still uses SAE brake line fittings so you can reuse your old ones)

I still need to get the brakes fully bled, I have an pneumatic "power bleeder" but it is pouring today so I still haven't gotten to test it.

New booster is bigger (I think 11") and is a dual diaphragm.

[webfoot]

Everything seems sorted out now, and I also found out I in fact had the wrong T-case shifter in, and now the boot can be screwed down and it is a LOT quieter in the cab with that big hole plugged. Put a new Hickey shift knob on and good as new.

Brakes; CHECK!

also got a Dodge D60 steering arm from a member here who had already reamed it out to accept a chevy ball joint. Got that on and initially had it the same length as the drop arm. MISTAKE! My left turn radius was about 50 yards. The factory steering arm needs shortened as far as it can go since the dodge arm sticks straight out. but the pitman arm and steering arm are almost level now.

No complaints anymore except it needs an alignment and the clear on top of the cab is starting to blister already.