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Old 09-03-2018, 07:20 PM   #1
Tcwivwallace
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New to Body Work, Advice Required

Hey All,

I have decided to undergo a bodywork job on my 2009 Silverado. I sanded down the rust to bare metal, primed, sprayed color coat with the duplicolor paint match stuff, then applied a clear coat on that. I wetsanded up to 1200 grit then used rubbing compound, polishing compound, then a wax. Come to my surprise, my white truck has now turned pink... any advice in what this is and how to fix it?
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:08 PM   #2
72HuggerK20
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

There looks to be rust still poking through that. Are you trying to sell the truck and hide the rust to make a little extra on the sale? I wouldn't expect any rust repair that wasn't done by cutting out all of the rust and welding in new metal to last more than about 6 months, tops.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:25 PM   #3
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

Im no expert but i learned the hard way...
If you sanded to bare metal the 1st thing you should have done was epoxy primer...
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:28 PM   #4
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

Not trying to sell, I have had the truck just over a year and the bubbles in the paint fell off and the rust was reavealed. I put on the Loctite rust dissolve and then primed over that. So those little pink spots would be rust just poking back through? I can buy a patch panel for that section relatively inexpensive. That would probably be the best option? I'm just a bit OCD about the paint job, but not enough to send it to a shop and get it professionally done.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:34 PM   #5
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

Your best bet is always to put in new metal. So yes, cut out all of the rust, then cut your patch panel to fit the hole. Grind down the welds, use filler only to fill low spots, not holes. Get the filler all sanded out to 150 grit, put on a coat of epoxy primer, then a few coats of primer surfacer. Sand that out to 600 grit, and sand the rest of the box side with 800. You can thin down epoxy primer to use as sealer. Go to harbor freight and get a real paint gun for 10 bucks. Get some value-line basecoat like PPG Omni or similar from another brand. Paint the patched area, blend into the existing paint. You will need to clear the entire box side. After that you can sand out dust nibs and buff it.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:36 PM   #6
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

What's sad is a 09 truck with rust....not sure what you need a patch panel for unless it's rusted thru...take it back to bare metal and put epoxy on it...
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:43 PM   #7
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

Rust belt rust starts from the inside out there Mongo, I'm guessing the panel has holes.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:51 PM   #8
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

Probably so...we don't have those issues down here....
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Old 09-03-2018, 09:00 PM   #9
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

Most rust in that location on the wheel opening is coming through from the back side due to trapped dirt , water, and then rust between the wheel well and quarter panel. Just addressing this issue from the front side will never keep the rust from reappearing .
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Old 09-03-2018, 11:49 PM   #10
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

MP&C hit it right on. I had an 07 that had this issue. I could see 1 bubble just starting about the size of a pen head. If you want to see how bad it is pop out the tail light and shine a flash light inside the box and have a look above the wheel well. There is probably a 2 to 3 inch wide belt of rust where the inner fender meets the box side.
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Old 09-04-2018, 12:14 PM   #11
LH Lead-Foot
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

I looked at the photo 20 times and appears to over the wheel house or wheel well area. When you sand it down to bare metal, flash rust will occur quickly with 50% relative humidity. I sounds funny, but one should clean the area before sanding with a pre-paint cleaner to remove wax, silicone, road tar and nasties.

But as posted, an epoxy sealer is a glue and seals the metal from moisture in the air. A quart of SPI epoxy mixed 1 part to 1 part and sprayed on after sanding, wipe with pre-clean, tack...but before starting the filler and spot putty (If needed for pits).
The good thing about SPI epoxy is a 7 day open window prior to filler, sanding, spot putty for feather edge. The main thing is it chemically grabs on and cures together. If you sand thru the epoxy sealer during the filler, you can re-spray the bare metal spots or the whole repair.
Sand the surrounding area with 800 grit for blending clear into the panel. Pre-clean again, tack rag and spray a light coat of base color, followed with two coats to hide the repair area.
Many will reduce air pressure and double distance to blend a metallic color coat into a slightly larger area around the repair to blend, color match, by fooling the eye.
Wait, check a test area for tackiness that allows you to proceed. Tack and clear following the temperature with proper reducer while focusing on the repair. Follow the spray time allowed by the paints specs sheet. Clear the entire panel to cover. If you have "Nibs" or dirt in the color, wait, do some very light sanding, tack and then clear coat.
With practice, many can blend the clear around the repair using special solvent ratios to melt it in to the good areas. Then wet sand, buff & polish as needed.

I guess the main thing to take away from the conversation is, epoxy seals the bare metal. Filler is catalyzed, some spot putty is catalyzed and of course your base color and clear is catalyzed....So all products chemically adhering, filler chemically grabs on, then color base & clear form one large molecule while out-gassing of solvents occur over time & temp allowed by the manufacture.

Pre-clean falls into two categories; prep and final. Make sure you know what you are getting. Most spot fillers are not catalyzed but can work fine. Allow your new tack rag to air dry by un-wrapping and hang up to out gas any solvents used for storage before use. Once the metal is bare, you can tell if tiny rust spots are inside coming out with small single wire to pick at the scab. If it goes thru, then you need new metal.
Hope this helps the overall painting experience for you going forward, but the "Pink" is either flash rust, thin layers of color coverage or the worst...rust thru.

Hope this helps.
ASE Master Tech / not professional painter, but I play one in my own garage with our vehicles armed with research and asking questions like this forum. Like they did "Pre-YouYube".
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:02 PM   #12
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

Did you use any type of filler or spot putty? I've seen the solvents in primer/paint pull the pigment from the hardener up and discolor the basecoat. Some filler has red hardener which would turn white paint pink, and the discoloration pattern sort of looks like filler was wiped in those spots.
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:11 PM   #13
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

I had chalked the pink color up to Duplicolor products
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:16 PM   #14
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

I have an uncle who had a "budget" paint job done locally... it had blue spots coming through the white paint everywhere there was filler so that made me think that it's possibly solvent pulling up the pigment from the filler.
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:44 PM   #15
LH Lead-Foot
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Re: New to Body Work, Advice Required

A good quality sealer will block the solvents from bleeding thru while providing a base for good color match. The sealers also protect the substate from new solvents from the paint you used, being drawn into the repair & original paint.

So, yes...Without "Sealer" being mentioned in the original post, I would say it looks like solvents from plastic filler bleeding thru.
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