Static VS bagged

[CRGRS 66]

It would be wise to use DOT approved NTA air fittings and tubing. Picture is of a brass push on style fitting, some manufacturers nickel plate these fittings, so they pretty much look like stainless steel fittings. These fittings are used on the air brake systems on big rigs, very, very reliable connections. The tubing is available in several colors, the most common is black.

[DLW]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I started off the 1st 2yrs w/rear bags on my 68 & rarely had to adjust for leakage. I also leak test everything before final installation.

Thanks. I'll be pulling out the bags and checking the fittings. I sealed them up pretty good but something is letting air out somewhere. Lesson learned, check all fittings for leaks before installing ..

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

It would be wise to use DOT approved NTA air fittings and tubing. Picture is of a brass push on style fitting, some manufacturers nickel plate these fittings, so they pretty much look like stainless steel fittings. These fittings are used on the air brake systems on big rigs, very, very reliable connections. The tubing is available in several colors, the most common is black.

Thanks, will be looking into them.

[CRGRS 66]

Try a heavy vehicle supply house, or a fluid power distributor. I sell these fittings and tubing so have easy access, at very good pricing (not soliciting sales here). Cheers.

[BRASSHEAD]

I have done both static and bagged. I am currently running bags and they are nice for a smooth ride and for that cool layed out look, but for a performance ride, static is the way to go. You can set your ride height where you want it then change the stiffness with spring rates. With my bag setup to get a stiffer ride I have to add air which raises my ride height and kills the look.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BRASSHEAD

I have done both static and bagged. I am currently running bags and they are nice for a smooth ride and for that cool layed out look, but for a performance ride, static is the way to go. You can set your ride height where you want it then change the stiffness with spring rates. With my bag setup to get a stiffer ride I have to add air which raises my ride height and kills the look.

Technically, you should do the exact same thing w/bags if setting it up w/a performace agenda. The bags would need to be set-up to yield the optimum pressure @ the targeted ride height. This would be similar to setting the ride height & changing the stiffness w/spring rates.

[LVPhotos]

I plan on Accuair e-level. I got help getting a shop rate. But found this in magazine.

http://www.littlelarrys.net

[chris1044]

Fairly sure I'm going to do either static all the way around, or static up front with bags in the rear should I decide I want to use the truck to carry stuff. I'm on the fence about using it to carry more than 3-400 pounds or the occasional motorcycle.

Front I've decided on CPP modular spindle - which will allow bigger brakes when I'm ready; trying to decide on going to a 5 lug and new rims now or just doing a 6 lug for now. I'll probably stick with 6 lug and spend the $$ on some control arms VS rims/tires since the truck already has decent aluminum 6 lug rims.

Any recommendation on spring manufacturer? GMCPaul springs actually change rates for various motors, and Hotchkiss only offer 67+; but if I did the control arms I could use their stuff.

For the rear I'm thinking new trailing arms, a sway bar, 6" springs and a notch

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chris1044

Fairly sure I'm going to do either static all the way around, or static up front with bags in the rear should I decide I want to use the truck to carry stuff. I'm on the fence about using it to carry more than 3-400 pounds or the occasional motorcycle.

Front I've decided on CPP modular spindle - which will allow bigger brakes when I'm ready; trying to decide on going to a 5 lug and new rims now or just doing a 6 lug for now. I'll probably stick with 6 lug and spend the $$ on some control arms VS rims/tires since the truck already has decent aluminum 6 lug rims.

Any recommendation on spring manufacturer? GMCPaul springs actually change rates for various motors, and Hotchkiss only offer 67+; but if I did the control arms I could use their stuff.

For the rear I'm thinking new trailing arms, a sway bar, 6" springs and a notch

The Hotchkis springs would work on your 64. The front x-members are basically the same from 63-72.

[LVPhotos]

Everything is on sale! My inbox is full off sales. CPP, Brothers, and so on.

[bearmedic]

I have been looking into putting a 4/6 on my '66 with coilovers. currently my truck has a 4 link on the rear and am considering just going to the PB four link. I would like my truck to be used as a daily driver with the option on drag use. what do yall think?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bearmedic

I have been looking into putting a 4/6 on my '66 with coilovers. currently my truck has a 4 link on the rear and am considering just going to the PB four link. I would like my truck to be used as a daily driver with the option on drag use. what do yall think?

Sounds like a decent plan.

[chris1044]

ECE 1.5" springs and some drop spindle in the front, along with new arms when budget allows along with ECE 6" sprints and super track bar in the rear is what I ended up with.

I don't have the adjustability of air, but I got a decent deal on the parts (bought second hand) and if I end up needing it I can always swap down the road...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chris1044

ECE 1.5" springs and some drop spindle in the front, along with new arms when budget allows along with ECE 6" sprints and super track bar in the rear is what I ended up with.

I don't have the adjustability of air, but I got a decent deal on the parts (bought second hand) and if I end up needing it I can always swap down the road...

Rear shock relocators? With 6" drop springs they're definitely needed to maintain shock performance.

[chris1044]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Rear shock relocators? With 6" drop springs they're definitely needed to maintain shock performance.

Yep. Rear relocators along with the extensions for the front to reduce the angle. I think this plus cab mounts should improve the ride quality of the truck 1000%. Broken front coils and blown out shocks mean there's only one direction it could go

[LVPhotos]

My stock shock mount to the rear and new forward spot and stem welded to Porterbuilt arms. Newly installed Porterbuilt crossmember and rack.

[NEWFISHER]

^^^^ nice!

[par4tom]

I am running a 2.5" McGaughy's drop spindle in the front and just decided to ditch the springs in the rear of my 61 and do bags. Does anyone have a picture or a thread of how the upper cups for the rear need to be made? I'm having trouble finding good info.

My upper mounting plate is 6" in diameter...do I just take a 6" pipe, cut it about an 1 1/2" and then weld it to the upper member leaving room to tighten the bolts and run the air line?

Tom

[LVPhotos]

From Ride Tech. Takes the two bolts makes a rem9vable center post that spins on in stock location.