roadster shop

[don81]

Has anyone ever purchased a complete frame or front end kit from the Roadster Shop? I would love a complete frame but price comes into a factor. My frame is fine but want to improve it. I am looking to box the frame, buy one of their front end kits and put in a four link kit in the rear.

[Domer]

search for the make it handle thread. will help with alot.

[don81]

Originally Posted by Domer

search for the make it handle thread. will help with alot.

That is what I am doing now.

[Domer]

its lots of info.. but a good read. I will be going with a No limits setup for my truck when i get that far. mine was a toss up between that and scotts hot rods front end. I will be using both their front wide ride, and thier fatbar rear setup. shockwaves all around.

[don81]

I would like to see more info and pictures of the No Limits complete frame. I am not considering Scotts Hot Rods, just a personal preferance. I remember seeing the 55 chevy truck they did years ago on a tv show at a local car show, it was tucked away with no tags or signs to show it off ( I undertand why), also a close relative bought a camaro front end from him and had to send it back to get things straightened out to work correctly, it was very frustrating and time consuming. Shipped from PA back to CA. Just where I am at.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by don81

Has anyone ever purchased a complete frame or front end kit from the Roadster Shop? I would love a complete frame but price comes into a factor. My frame is fine but want to improve it. I am looking to box the frame, buy one of their front end kits and put in a four link kit in the rear.

Check out this thread....
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=602304

[Nsanehotrodz]

Originally Posted by don81

I would like to see more info and pictures of the No Limits complete frame. I am not considering Scotts Hot Rods, just a personal preferance. I remember seeing the 55 chevy truck they did years ago on a tv show at a local car show, it was tucked away with no tags or signs to show it off ( I undertand why), also a close relative bought a camaro front end from him and had to send it back to get things straightened out to work correctly, it was very frustrating and time consuming. Shipped from PA back to CA. Just where I am at.

Rob is building two complete frames in the next month or so for the 67-72 trucks. Shoot me an email or call our store and I will get you the very best price on everything you need. Whether you decide to use your stock frame with No Limit parts or use one of their complete frames. www.nsanehotrodz.com

[robnolimit]

Don81, all of the info on our chassis is on our web site. prices, options, and info. The first two questions are:
1) Truck info. - yr. model, long/short/, desired eng/trans, static or air, wheel size, stance
2) Build goals. What do you want to do with it? cruise, drag, auto-x, show, ?
OK, I guess there are three questions.
3) what is you budget range for a rolling chassis?

With this info we can help you get what you want and give you the info you need to make a good decision.

[don81]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Don81, all of the info on our chassis is on our web site. prices, options, and info. The first two questions are:
1) Truck info. - yr. model, long/short/, desired eng/trans, static or air, wheel size, stance
2) Build goals. What do you want to do with it? cruise, drag, auto-x, show, ?
OK, I guess there are three questions.
3) what is you budget range for a rolling chassis?

With this info we can help you get what you want and give you the info you need to make a good decision.

1967 Chevy c10 short box, and probly turbo 5.3 with t-56, coil overs not completly sure on wheel size 18x8 or 20x8 and no wider then a 10" in the rear. The stance would be low but drive able.

I mainly just want to drive it but with the ability to drag or auto-x it. This is why I really wanted to focus on a great frame and possibly a roll bar tucked inside the frame minus the rear hoops to give it away. I am interested in the front end being updated with c6 suspension in the front, more bracing the middle as I have seen to stiffen it up and run a 4 link in the rear.

That being said I am asking alot for a budget of $10k or in that ballpark. Which is why I am considering a front clip and boxing the frame myself. I have been reading your blog on handling and c channeling the inside with diagnal supports also.

Ill shoot you and email also to chat.

[robnolimit]

In a quick comparison, the parts to build you chassis can run up pretty quickly, depending on what you do. Here are two basic samples.

Outline #1
Chassis pack with WideRide IFS and Fatbar 4-link 4399
Use OE chassis and add C notch 200
Use OE rear axle and brakes
add rear fuel tank 500
boxing and bracing material 200
That's $5300 in parts, now for a real comparison, add in sandblasting, rebuild the rear gears and brakes, and the install and fab labor, appx $3500, so the package installed has a value of $8800

Outline #2
Chassis pack with WideRide and FatBar 4-link 4399
Raised rear rail kit 1175
Mosier 9", axles and gear set with locker, brackets welded 2300
Rear Explorer 12" disc brakes 600
rear mounted fuel tank 500
Now the parts are up to $8975, and again, the install labor, but no clean/prep/rebuild of the rear axle. Appx $3000, for a total value for the build of $11,975.

You can add and upgrade to these as well. Larger brakes, air ride, triple adjustable coil-overs, splined sway bars, plumbing

Comparing this to a full chassis you can see that at some point, it is no longer a good choice to stay with the OE frame as a build platform. Of coarse this is based on the costs of labor. If you are doing the install your self, you can save on that section, but the total value is the same.

If you go to our web site you can use the Pro-Tech chassis build sheet to build a comparable chassis. With a tank, gears/posi and explorer brakes, to make the comparisons as equal as possible, that comes out to $11,978.

To me, the biggest advantage to a new chassis has to do mostly with the base platform. The new chassis are so much more rigid than a modified/boxed/braced OE chassis. This is felt directly in the drive quality of the truck. The door fit, chassis flex/body flex, road noise, performance consistency, and the overall confidence given to the driver. Now, I hate to give them credit, but Toyota was the first to build a production truck on a rigid chassis platform, but all of the manufacturers do now. Some are much stronger than others (if you saw the Chevy/Ford chassis flex video you know what I mean) and that's where the ride quality and stability come from. I hope this helps in your build planning.