Brake line fittings

[FAKKY]

Going to do all new brake lines around truck.
Like everything else never done before.

Whats required in terms of fittings.
Basically i have ordered

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

http://www.eastwood.com/professional...vFHxoCYkfw_wcB

what fittings do I actually need at each point though .......

eg ??

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-12-24-Fi...SQC6YHMEWGAV8X

or a mix of other fittings ?

Dakota IFS front
Explorer 8.8 rear.

[dsraven]

whatever the plan, practice a few flares before you go for the real deal. don't forget to put the flare nut on before you flare the end. it usually happens when you are doing the final flare on a previously cut to length piece. you flare the tube and then remember the nut sitting on the workbench right next to you. then you have to cut the tubing to get the nut on. this can make the new piece too short. one way to get around that is to leave a small circle of tubing somewhere in the line so you have some extra to play with and also for future repairs, if required. just do this in such a way as to allow easy bleeding of the new line so it isn't a high spot that will trap air bubbles.
if you have a parts store or wrecker close you can pick up some OEM looking brake line/fuel line tube separators that push into a hole in the frame and then the tubes snap into the plastic. some have a snap in retainer over top of that for added security. they look good and hold the lines nice and tight.

[dsraven]

http://www.stanleyengineeredfastenin...ers/tube-clips


these look nice, dunno the price though.

[FAKKY]

Thanks.
I'll cut some lengths and practice flares etc ...... More confused on how to determine what size and type of fittings are required from the MC all the way to front and rear

[dsraven]

start at the front wheels with the flex hoses and their terminations in a frame bracket. then from there to a "T" to connect the two fronts to a single line, then from there to the master through whatever valving you will have. proportioning vavles etc.then do the same for the rear circuit. check out how your current driver looks and go from their with some sort of a copy.

[FAKKY]

SAE Brake Line Fitting Kit for Inverted Flares on 3/16 and 1/4 Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YGR412..._sQBszbMCXY10P

See how this kit has various sizes ?
Not sure what sizes go where and how many of each I need above the soft lines etc.....

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

SAE Brake Line Fitting Kit for Inverted Flares on 3/16 and 1/4 Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YGR412..._sQBszbMCXY10P

See how this kit has various sizes ?
Not sure what sizes go where and how many of each I need above the soft lines etc.....

This is a good assortment for what your doing. It should have most all you need.

The fittings are called tube nuts. Size of the tube nut is the line size. Ie. 3/16 tube nut fits 3/16 line. 3/16 line can have threads of 3/8-24( typical) , 7/16-24, 1/2-20 and larger for master cylinders. Nerve use a 1/4 tube not on a 3/16 line or on a metric line. 1/4 inch have 7/16-24 threads typically. but can have larger threads as well.

For your application 3/16 x 3/-24 short and long will work for the lines and unions for the prop valve up to the hoses. The master cylinder tube nuts for GM usually are drab green 3/16 x 1/2-20 and a grayish color for 3/16 x 9/16-18. They seem to be in that kit you mentioned

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

This is a good assortment for what your doing. It should have most all you need.

The fittings are called tube nuts. Size of the tube nut is the line size. Ie. 3/16 tube nut fits 3/16 line. 3/16 line can have threads of 3/8-24( typical) , 7/16-24, 1/2-20 and larger for master cylinders. Nerve use a 1/4 tube not on a 3/16 line or on a metric line. 1/4 inch have 7/16-24 threads typically. but can have larger threads as well.

For your application 3/16 x 3/-24 short and long will work for the lines and unions for the prop valve up to the hoses. The master cylinder tube nuts for GM usually are drab green 3/16 x 1/2-20 and a grayish color for 3/16 x 9/16-18. They seem to be in that kit you mentioned

Thanks.

So basically most of the brake fittings to the four corners will be 3/8-24
the larger green/grey fittings are for routing to MC

Basically that ?



..............................................

Plugging in 1993 dakota into autozone for frono soft lines ... get

http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...782_99196_2362

Fitting Size (1): Banjo - 0.375
Fitting Size (2): Female - 3/8-24

So looks like its 3/8-24 ......... guess thats one way to determine

[Flysocal]

I just finished plumbing my chassis. I used flex line on all 4 corners. Mounted tees (2) so left side flex lines plumbed directly into tee with a 3an to 3/8-24 adapter. Had to run 3/16 hard lines from right side flex lines to tee. Then hard line from tee to spot on frame to where it will eventually join up to master cylinder. I used SUR&R nickel copper hard lines and must say I was impressed with it. Very easy to work with and bend by hand. Used a good quality K-tools flaring tool which was super easy. Check out my build thread for pictures.

[NeoJuice]

I will be plumbing my brake lines soon. Just got in all the final parts I needed. I chose to go with this eastwood tool instead. I wanted a good double flaring tool instead of the cheap part store one's. I'll also be plumbing with copper nickel brake line.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-...16-tubing.html

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by Flysocal

I just finished plumbing my chassis. I used flex line on all 4 corners. Mounted tees (2) so left side flex lines plumbed directly into tee with a 3an to 3/8-24 adapter. Had to run 3/16 hard lines from right side flex lines to tee. Then hard line from tee to spot on frame to where it will eventually join up to master cylinder. I used SUR&R nickel copper hard lines and must say I was impressed with it. Very easy to work with and bend by hand. Used a good quality K-tools flaring tool which was super easy. Check out my build thread for pictures.

Thanks for info.
How do you know its a 3/8-24 though
That basically what Im trying to see how people work out.

How many of each type fitting would be required.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

I will be plumbing my brake lines soon. Just got in all the final parts I needed. I chose to go with this eastwood tool instead. I wanted a good double flaring tool instead of the cheap part store one's. I'll also be plumbing with copper nickel brake line.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-...16-tubing.html

thanks.
same here ... on tool and line ...... Didnt want to 2nd guess my braek lines holding .... so got the good one

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Thanks.

So basically most of the brake fittings to the four corners will be 3/8-24
the larger green/grey fittings are for routing to MC

Basically that ?
.............................................

Plugging in 1993 dakota into autozone for frono soft lines ... get

http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...782_99196_2362

Fitting Size (1): Banjo - 0.375
Fitting Size (2): Female - 3/8-24

So looks like its 3/8-24 ......... guess thats one way to determine

3/16 line usually has a 3/8-24 tube nut, 1/4 line usually has a 7/16-24

The larger sizes like 1/2-20 and up are for master cylinders so you don't put the lines on wrong at the master

[FAKKY]

ok - thanks - seems fairly straight forward.
Having never done this before my thoughts were

1) How do you tell if metric/sae ... or 3/8-24 or 7/16-24 without buying a bunch of bolts and seeing if you can guess best fitment size

2) Buying a kit seems cheaper. But if you buy a kit that half of it is unused - then its a waste

thanks for clearing up

[OrrieG]

For the braided lines I have always ordered directly from Russell, great tech people help you get exactly what you need and pricing is fair without summitt etc. markup. For the main runs I used pre fitted lines from NAPA, still had to flare a few. Make sure you buy a quality tubing bender, cheap ones will kink your lines.

[1project2many]

The part numbers for the parts you are using will almost always lead, eventually, to specifications including thread sizes. There are some reasonable estimates that are available, such as, if the tubing for the vehicle that supplied a part is 3/16" then a "standard" 3/16" tubing nut will work.

You could also gather up one of every part, such as flex hose, wheel cylinder, master cylinder and head to a parts store where they could match it up.

[FAKKY]

Thanks

<googles russell>

cool site

http://www.russellperformance.com/

can you order direct ? oh ... ^^ you said

[abig84]

i have that exact brake flaring tool, the instructions over complicate it. once you figure it out you can do flares in like 3 seconds its really a good machine

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

ok - thanks - seems fairly straight forward.
Having never done this before my thoughts were

1) How do you tell if metric/sae ... or 3/8-24 or 7/16-24 without buying a bunch of bolts and seeing if you can guess best fitment size

2) Buying a kit seems cheaper. But if you buy a kit that half of it is unused - then its a waste

thanks for clearing up

there is one exception to the 3/16 line rule. There is a 3/16 line x 10MM. BUT it will not thread into a 3/-24. It look similar but doesn't fit. A thread gage will help you. 3/16 is very close to 6 mmm but it is not a replacement for 3/16 line.

As for the kit. buy it you already don't know what to buy so if you purchase the wrong items then you wasted those and have to rebuy it all. That kit should have every thing you need and its cheap for the items your getting.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

You could also gather up one of every part, such as flex hose, wheel cylinder, master cylinder and head to a parts store where they could match it up.

Ditto, no waste

[mr48chev]

Are you running the stock rotors and calipers or swapping to the bigger brakes?

[1958Warrior]

I used got my fittings and brakeline from Eastwood:
http://www.eastwood.com/16pc-steel-f...16-tubing.html

http://www.eastwood.com/3-16-steel-b...bing-25ft.html

Speedway has a good tip chart:
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/ima...em-TechTip.gif

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Articl...le?keyId=28780

I had to buy a few extra fittings cant remember what size, also don't forget the flex line for the rear from frame to axle , residual valves , adjustable proportioning valve ,
Might also want to add some armor protector, I just reused what was on the donor :
http://www.eastwood.com/brakequip-3-...armor-3ft.html

I used a double flare tool similar to the one NeoJuice used , worked good, Put a drop of brake fluid on the line before you do the flare it will help lube it and not contaminate the line with oil.

[OrrieG]

I got and used a classic Imperial tool like this one, got it at an estate sale for $15. I love finding good quality old tools.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Are you running the stock rotors and calipers or swapping to the bigger brakes?

Well stock rotors and calipers as far as the NEW front and back

Dakota IFS front
Explorer 8.8 rear


While we have the thread going .......
What are the locking parts called that go between the softline and hardline to hold in place and to frame. Kinda like a mounting tab with a clip.


On the banjo fitting side at the actual caliper ...... if you don't have the banjo bolt to attach soft hose to caliper - do they typically come with the soft hose - guessing not and need to just find one with right thread side ...... assuming standard 'bore size' ...... etc

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by 1958Warrior

I used got my fittings and brakeline from Eastwood:
http://www.eastwood.com/16pc-steel-f...16-tubing.html

http://www.eastwood.com/3-16-steel-b...bing-25ft.html

Speedway has a good tip chart:
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/ima...em-TechTip.gif

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Articl...le?keyId=28780

I had to buy a few extra fittings cant remember what size, also don't forget the flex line for the rear from frame to axle , residual valves , adjustable proportioning valve ,
Might also want to add some armor protector, I just reused what was on the donor :
http://www.eastwood.com/brakequip-3-...armor-3ft.html

I used a double flare tool similar to the one NeoJuice used , worked good, Put a drop of brake fluid on the line before you do the flare it will help lube it and not contaminate the line with oil.

thanks good tip on the protector also ......