Wiring bug please help!!!!

[6796Chev]

To start things out, I drive a 96 2dr Tahoe 5.7 L that has just recently stared having issues. first off I had an issue with what I though was my alternator/battery..both were replaced with Optima yellow top/100A alt. Secondly there was a coolant leak issue that ended up needing intake manifold replacements. all of which have been done the past couple of days and it still wont start Not that these issues are related. I am trying to figure out why my brand new battery is already dead? Any ideas where a constant battery drain would come from?? BTW it is ACCUAIR E-Level equipped. Any suggestions/thoughts/anything helps.

[franken]

Disconnect the negative post. Get a battery charger and start charging. It will take time as in many hours to charge if its really dead. A charged battery is 12.6V DC. Get a voltmeter and measure the voltage on the battery. Turn on the lights for a few minutes before measuring. What's the voltage?
If it starts, what's the voltage on the battery w/ the engine running?
If you suspect the battery is being drained, keep the negative disconnected when not in use.
Check w/ a test light between the negative post and cable.

Or that's what I'd do...

[6796Chev]

Ok I will give it a try thanks franken

[speedygonzales]

So where we at now?

[6796Chev]

still stuck... the battery is fine but when I go to turn the motor over the starter seems to not have enough torque to start. other than replacing the starter is there anything else you guys can think of? can it be a timing issue?

[speedygonzales]

OK so when you said it won't "start" you actually meant it won't "CRANK"?

Big difference between won't start but cranks and won't crank.

What is the voltage at the starter on the large wire connected to the battery when someone it is being cranked?

If you are getting at least 11 volts at the starter when it is cranked and the starter is still not cranking correctly, either the starter is bad or you have a couple of cylinders hydro locked.

And no the timing can't be off in a Vortec unless you reinstalled the distributor wrong.

[6796Chev]

You're right, sorry my wording was a little confusing. The motor is cranking over but not starting. Replaced the starter today and messed with the distributor and we think we have it back on an alignment mark that validates our mark of the position from when it was removed.

The voltage on the battery looks to be good, don't recall the exact number, and the drain has been cured.

When engaging the starter the motor rotates slowly and then stops. A second attempt yields a faster rotation and the sound of the engine trying to fire. We've gone through this process multiple times, on a couple occasions on the second and/or third try it does sound like it wants to run but stalls. After the second or third attempt there's a clunking sound and it sounds like a large rush of air back through the throttle body. So the hydro-lock sounds like it might be the issue behind this.

[95 S_Trucker]

My guess is the distributor wasn't put back in the same place during the intake manifold gasket replacement.

Has the engine run since the intake manifold gaskets were changed?

Bring the engine to TDC compression stroke. Install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the little triangle with the 8 on it. You may have to turn the oil pump drive with a long screwdriver to get the distributor to seat properly.

That will get you running. After that, you should get someone with a scanner, and adjust the cam/crank signal to 0+/-2 degrees.

[6796Chev]

Thanks 95 S_Trucker this helped a lot. I spent the time to change the spark plugs and wires while we were at it. Well see tomorrow if this solved the issue. Fingers crossed

[6796Chev]

when you say bring to TDC, I am assuming that's starting from the 1st cylinder?

[95 S_Trucker]

Yes, tdc for cyl 1 compression stroke.

[6796Chev]

So here where we stand. Got everything back together and running but its still running a little rough. Seems like there is a misfire. From what I understand camshaft timing has to be set at +-2 with a scan tool? any recommendations on good/affordable scanners? or can this be done without a scanner?