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Old 05-27-2004, 08:30 PM   #1
PHOENIX
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Exclamation How to INSTALL pilot bearing/bushing?

Ok I got the old bushing (no bearing, just a regular bushing) out as discussed in the other thread.

I went down and got a roller bearing from the dealer for around $10.
The bearing is slightly larger then the one I removed.
Its the same OD as the ones that came with the clutch kits.
All the bushings I have dont want to go in except the one I removed (which may be wore down).

So my question is, do I have to hammer this thing in?
I dont want to damage anything.
I used my modified alignment tool again and hit on hit with a rubber mallet.
It went in a little bit. I then used the tool with a regular hammer. Dont think it moved much. I know the modified alignment tool has flex and isnt passing all the force from the hit through. Which may be a good thing.

How the heck do I get this thing in?
Is the proper method to hammer it in?
Can I use a steel washer and steel bolt against the bearing to hammer it in?

Please let me know ASAP, I have to get this thing in so I can start putting everything back together tomorrow night and saturday.

thank.
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Old 05-27-2004, 09:07 PM   #2
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I would think it should be a tight fit to keep it from wobbling around with you. The bearing does all the work not the outside of the bearing. Find a socket that fits the hard outside part of the bearing and drive that sucker home. If the plastic alignment tool moved it a tad, a socket will work for sure. Just don't beat on the inner part of the bearing and you will be OK.
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Old 05-28-2004, 12:18 AM   #3
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thanks Mike,
I put a deep 13/16" socket on it and drove it in with the hammer.
It took a few hits to get 'er done, but its all the way in and looks perfect.

Going to start throughing everything back in tomorrow after work.
I have a friend coming over saturday to help get the transmission into place.
I hope to be driving the truck sometime saturday.
I miss driving my truck, I have been driving my dads Dynasty for the last week (at least it has a/c that will freeze your nips off).

Heres a few pics of the new parts. Should last awhile and get it done right.
Got the flywheel resurfaced at Napa's machine shop and got the Zoom multifriction (kevlar/high burst? organic disc) with the stronger pressure plate. I returned the cheaper Beck/Arnley clutch kit to Checker.
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Last edited by PHOENIX; 05-28-2004 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 05-28-2004, 12:33 AM   #4
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Don't forget to pack that bearing with plenty of grease .

Last edited by Bowed; 05-28-2004 at 12:35 AM.
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Old 05-28-2004, 05:32 AM   #5
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Remember the chamfered side on those things points to the tranny. It should be a tight fit but not so tight that you have to hammer the snot out of it. Some light tapping should get it in, use a brass or teflon hammer.

Why does everyone like roller bearings? They have to be packed with grease, I always run sintered bronze (oilite) bushings, they are porous and will retain oil, just drop them in a cup of light oil and it will be fine for a very very long time.
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Old 05-28-2004, 10:32 AM   #6
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This is the first time I am using a roller bearing. Every other time I have changed the clutch I used a bushing and it just came right out and pretty much slipped right in, took a little force by hand only. Thats why this time I wasnt sure if I had to hammer it in, I never had to do it before. The only reason I am using the roller bearing is because thats the only thing the dealer could find for my truck. They couldnt find bushings at all and the bushings I had at home seemed to be steel. Not brass or oil impregnated types.

I packed the pilot bearing with grease and have the chamfered side facing the trans (bearings closer to engine). I am going to repack the throwout bearing inner recess and lightly coat the fork groove on the throwout bearing. I am also going to very lightly coat the trans splines with white lithium grease for smooth sliding with clutch disc (as recommended by most clutch manufacturers). I also installed a new backup switch. This trans came from a junk yard about 5 years ago or so. The backup switch was damaged then and I never fixed it. I will have backup lights again
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Old 05-29-2004, 03:42 PM   #7
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Question If you dont mind my asking how much wasthe clutch kit and how much to resurface the flywheel
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Old 05-31-2004, 03:06 AM   #8
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That clutch kit was $222.00 and the resurface from napa was $28.
Zoom Multi-Friction MF-5505-1
Most places who resurface flywheels will charge $40+.
Napa seems to be the cheapest I have found thats holds that price all the time.
If you are going to get it done and are going to go with Napa, call your local Napa first to make sure that location has a machine shop.
In the past I had the flywheel resurfaced for as little as $20 at some clutch shops.
It was around closing time and I thing the guys did it and pocketed the money.
A stock clutch kit from the gm dealers is just under $400.00.
That is why I went with a "performance" clutch kit.

I got everything installed Saturday. This clutch kit is much smoother then others I have had in the past. Seems to work pretty damn well. The pedal is much easier to push also, there is less resistance, yet it feels as strong if not stronger then other clutch kits I have used. Some clutch kits require a break in period. This one didnt say anything but I am not going to get on it much for awhile.
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Last edited by PHOENIX; 05-31-2004 at 03:10 AM.
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Old 05-31-2004, 01:55 PM   #9
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Thanks so much for the info. I have my engine out now and the flywheel needs to be turned. My buddy said I should just go back with the old clutch. It looks ok but the throw out bearing is worn. What do u think. Now is the time to do it so I may replace it.

Thanks again for the info.

Tony
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Old 05-31-2004, 02:33 PM   #10
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Since you have to pull everything out to resurface the flywheel, I would just put new components in. Saves the hassle of replacing the clutch (and resurfacing the flywheel) again.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:47 AM   #11
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I agree if its been awhile since you did the clutch and your bearing is worn I would replace it all while you have it out and easier to do.
Seems kind of weird your bearing wore out first.
I have eaten up a few clutches in this truck and either the pressure plate, or disc go out first.
You cant tell when a pressure plate it going to go out by looking at it, so if its been awhile you can save your self some future headache if you get it done now. How many miles you think you got on those clutch parts?
If your flywheel doesnt have a matte finish your should have it resurafaced.
Resurface your flywheel if:
It have a smooth shiny finish
It has grooves in it (like disc brake rotors get)
It has color changes from heat

For best performance you want your flywheel to have a slightly textured matte finish like shown in the second picture above. Some people just use sand paper on them, but the resurfacings not only gives you a better finish across the flywheel but it also levels it out so you dont have any high spots that can eat the disc up. its well worth the $28.
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Last edited by PHOENIX; 06-01-2004 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 06-02-2004, 03:29 PM   #12
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Well thanks for the info. It had a brand new clutch put in in 98 along witha brand new long block. It sat around for 4 years at a buddies house he only drove it 4 or 6 times in that period. The flywheel has some black heat marks and you can feel real small waves in it. Im trying to do this as cheap as possible so any suggestions. I will be resurfaceing the flywheel at my local Napa store. I wont be 4x4ing too much so do u think a napa clutch kit will be ok or do u have a better idea under 200 bucks for the whole kit and kaboodle.

Thanks all
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Old 06-02-2004, 03:58 PM   #13
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When the clutch set was put in '98 did you have the flywheel resurfaced then?
If so, then I dont know why it would have the heat marks if only driven a few times.
Makes me wonder why the throwout bearing is worn if it has so little use.

If the truck was sitting all that time the pressure plate was putting pressure on the disc (clamping). But I dont think you would have a problem if you kept the old one in and used it. I dont know if the pressure plate clamping power gets weaker from clamping and not clamping or from staying clamped. I know when you get a pressure plate it is not clamped and when you tighten all the bolts the pressure plate applies pressure on the disc and clamps down.

Based on whats your saying I would resurface the flywheel and use the old clutch set with new throwout bearing. If you have the money to spare and dont feel like messing with the clutch later on put a new clutch set in now while its easy. I have used a few clutch kits from checker ($130). I had one for 4-years and another for 3-years and they never gave me trouble. But I did get 2-duds in there that where a headache to take everything back apart again just to do the job twice. Thats why this time I bought a better one.

Its kind of a toss up, you have heat marks on your flywheel and a worn throwout bearing yet the clutch set has very little use. Maybe the throwout bearing wasnít replaced during the '98 clutch job. Its up to you on what you do, itís a hard call.

If I were you I would stay away from the Beck/Arnley brand clutches.
A lot of clutch places I talked to liked the Luk brand clutches and I was told they are a leading clutch manufacturer. The Zoom clutch I bought has Luk stamped on the pressure plate. I was also told by at least two clutch guys that Luk manufactures the center force clutches too.
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:07 PM   #14
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Thanks for the info. I am not sure if the clutch was done in 98 for sure that was what I was told by the owner that got it after the engine job. You know how that goes Based on your info and that of others I am gonna put in a whole new clutch I dont want to fool around with it again. And sure as heck it will fry when Im trout fishing this July. How is Phoenix. I have family in Tucson.
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:13 PM   #15
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It just keeps getting hotter everyday.
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:15 PM   #16
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I bet I live in Paso Robles California it hasnt got hot yet but it will.

Can I ask one more question what have you heard about the centerforce 1 clutch kit
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