|03-28-2005, 11:42 AM||#1|
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sw colorado
SM465 to NV4500 swap
this is a copy paste of my thread over in the 67-72 board, enjoy and ask if you have any ???
Ok, everyone seems to want more information. here is a sort of step by step and some more pics. i will snap more photos this weekend when i finish and post them as well. if someone wants to move this to the FAQ board that is great, if not i can copy and paste it into a new thread.
As always block the truck so it won't roll, and disconect the positive battery connection before any repair/replace procedure
this is also a good time to replace the clutch, but mine is less than 6 months old, so i left it alone.
these are my steps, feel free to add anything i have forgotten.
1. remove the driveshaft
2. remove the shifter( if standard floor shift )
3. remove seat and transmission tunnel cover.
4. drain all fluid from the transfer case and transmission remove speedo cable and backup light wires
5. Remove the 8 bolts holdong the transfer case to the factory adapter. be sure to support the case, it is heavy
6. carefully slide the input off of the splined tube in the adapter and the t-case is out.
7. remove the 2 1/2 (3/4 wrench) inch bolts holding the adapter to the crossmember.
8. support the transsmission with a floor or transmission jack or cherry picker from above.
9. remove the 8 bolts holding the adapter to the transmission case and remove adapter.
10. remove 8 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame. a few of mine broke so have some WD-40 or other penetrant around for the rust. remove the crossmember
11. remove the 4 bolts holding the transmission case to the bellhousing.
12.carefully lower the transmission out of the vehicle. you must slide it strait back to remove the input from the clutch disc before lowering.
13. diconnect the clutch linkage from the throw out fork.
14. pull the starter (if block mounted this step can be ommitted)
15. remove the 6 bell housing bolts (9/16 wrench) and pull the bellhousing, clutch fork and T/O bearing.
16. Use a dolley ( i used a creeper ) to slide the new transmission and transfer case asseembly under the truck. You can either choose to put the bellhousing on the engine now or leave it attached to the case. i chose to attach mine to the engine first.
17. Use ratchet straps or chain(i prefer straps) to hoist the tranny assembly up into place with the engine hoist.
18. line the input shaft up with the clutch disc and pilot bushing.
19. slide the tranny forward and bolt it to the bellhousing using the 7/16 bolts(5/8 wrench)
20. attach the Advance adapters crossmember spacer to the aluminum adapter using 7/16 bolts (5/8 wrench)
21. bolt the crossmember to the AA adapter using the factory bolts, now with nuts and lock washers(they thread strait into the adapter in the factory application.
22. I used 1 1/2" square tube to space the crossmember down so the transfer case would not hit the cab. 7 inches long with 3/8" bolt holes on 5" centers for the spacers.
23. set the spacers on the crossmember and jack it up against the frame. drill out the frame with a 3/8 inch drill bit. For the upper frame rail i used a long shank 3/8 drill bit and went throught holes i drilled in the lower frame.
24. bolt the crossmember to the frame using new 2 1/2" bolts nuts and lock washers.
25. if your driveshaft is at the middle of its travel before you start it will need shortened, my truck had a lift and factory length driveline, so it needed no mods. the front driveline will need lengthened. I also replaced my u-joints at this time.
26. AA sells a bolt on relocation bracket for the t-case shifter, so install it and the shifter
27. install the shifter for the tranny, and re-install the interior peices.
28. re-attach the clutch linkage and starter(if removed)
All of this i for a 71-72 original 4 speed 205 combo truck, other things will have to be done if working with an auto truck.
i used all AA parts, including the transmission. the bellhousing is the left side mechanical clutch linkage part.
I will do some looking and get part numbers ASAP.
tools needed for this swap were basic hand tools, electric drill, engine hoist and an assortment of bolts and nuts.
My girlfriend and i accomplished this swap with about 6-8 hours invested.
Also this transmission requires that a special synthetic oil be used or the tranny will self destruct. here are some PN's 715690 is the AA number 12346190 is the GM part number or the Dodge part number is 4874459. You can also you Castrol Syntorque synthetic as well, but only these will work all else will ruin the tranny. It is also advised to run this oil in the transfer case, in case for some reason the seal between the two breeches. this will allow the gearbox contents to mix and possibly ruin the tranny if the same oils aren't used.
|05-12-2005, 02:20 AM||#4|
Indian Motorcycle collector
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW, WA.
Rear Driveshaft Q's
Did you use a single rear driveshaft or 2-part? If a single how long is it? Just asking 'cuz I have the factory 2-part and would like to get rid of it if I do this conversion.
35 master 5-window coupe
36 Chevy Low cab 1/2 ton
55 2dr Post Rat Rod
67 K20 Dumper-my workin' girl
70 GMC Short fleet project 4 sale
85 K30 Tow-pig/scrap hauler
00 S-10 4x4 Rainy-day Driver
'40 Harley knucklehead '97 Harley Roadking
'46 Indian Chief, '47 Indian Chief Bobber
'53 Indian Chief Blackhawk 80
RIDE'em don't HIDE'em Be American, Buy American, Ride American, Drive American.
Last edited by Americanrider; 05-12-2005 at 02:24 AM. Reason: error
|05-13-2005, 12:40 AM||#5|
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sw colorado
i have a 1 peice driveshaft, i have no idea what the length is, but with the 2.5 inch lift it fit just fine after the swap. i replaced my dana 60 with a 14 bolt and now it is streched out, needs to be lengthened, but i think i will wait till i put a little more lift on it. if you want me to measure i can do that