LSX swap guys, what headers are you running?

[68GenIII]

Just like the Title says. Have you found any headers for a LSx swap that dont hang to low and fit w/o to much of a headache?

[shifty]

i'm using stock '98 manifolds right now. perfect bolt-up, but you'd need to create an exhaust bung on the pass side if you're not going to clear out the cats and use those too. i would like to know of a good set of headers that would work that also have the O² bungs on them.

[clay68c10]

Someone is making an LSx swap header for Chevelles (hooker??). Chevelle BB headers seem to fit our trucks and don't hang down too low. Maybe those swappers would fit... I saw them in a recent issue of Hot Rod.

[68 short step]

im useing 00 camaro/firebird headers... they dont hang but bout .5 inch below the frame..... driver side needs one tube at bottom beat in a tad. (probley wont need to do this if running stock a arms, im runnin DJM lowering a arms) on the pass side you'll need to notch the top frame rail, again, not much. ( less then .75 inch deep by 2 inch long) bottom frame rail will be close to side of header. i went ahead and took .5 out of the frame to give me nice clearence.....and of coarse new wxhast will need to be fabed up
only take about 2-4 hours start to finish.... ill get more pics if ya want
just let me know what ya want

[Custom 68]

I am using stock Z06 manifolds they fit very well. Carcraft did an article and showed these stock manifolds performed about as well as headers. They are alot more free flowing than the other stock ones. I may eventually switch but for now they are quiet and work well. and cheap...
68 short step yours looks great!
Dave

[68GenIII]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

im useing 00 camaro/firebird headers... they dont hang but bout .5 inch below the frame..... driver side needs one tube at bottom beat in a tad. (probley wont need to do this if running stock a arms, im runnin DJM lowering a arms) on the pass side you'll need to notch the top frame rail, again, not much. ( less then .75 inch deep by 2 inch long) bottom frame rail will be close to side of header. i went ahead and took .5 out of the frame to give me nice clearence.....and of coarse new wxhast will need to be fabed up
only take about 2-4 hours start to finish.... ill get more pics if ya want
just let me know what ya want

Those look great! I will be running a 6 litre motor so I have some 6 litre manifolds which are supposed to flow better then the Camaros. Im also installing a set of heads and a cam and think a LT header would be best for me. Has anyone tried a Covette header? The reason I ask is that they are pretty symetrical and run a little closer to the motor and tranny? Thanks for the replys!

[shifty]

Originally Posted by Custom 68

I am using stock Z06 manifolds they fit very well.

what year?
also, have you got pictures?
do the manifolds have one O² bung on each, or is it like the F-body cars with no bungs on the pass. side?

i was told the Z06 manifolds would work, but only if you modify them slightly. never learned what that meant.

[Custom 68]

Originally Posted by shifty

what year?
also, have you got pictures?
do the manifolds have one O² bung on each, or is it like the F-body cars with no bungs on the pass. side?

i was told the Z06 manifolds would work, but only if you modify them slightly. never learned what that meant.

Shifty
I will need to get some new pictures of these, I custom built my motor mounts so my engine sits different than most. It is moved rearward about 4 or more inches and sits very low in the compartment. I dont remember the year but I believe they are 2002 manifolds I got off e-bay for 20 bucks or so. yes they both have the o2 bung in them, sure works slick.
Dave

I did not modify the manifolds but ground slightly around where the AC goes (5.3 location) on my frame rail.
Dave

[shifty]

I'm bumping this for the sake of adding a pic:

The set of ’98 Camaro/Firebird manifolds (top) worked best for me (GM P/N 12567706 RH, 12559507 LH). Other possibilities include ’99-’03 Camaro/Firebird (second from top), ’99-’03 C/K Silverado (second from bottom), and ’97-’03 Corvette (bottom).

[gringoloco]

Mustang 5.0 headers will work. There is a guy at LS1tech that has done a few this way. You have to remove the flange and replace it with an LS style flange. The bore spacing is identical, so the primaries line right up...

[shifty]

you (per chance) have a link to a thread on the topic, or with pics of that particular setup?

wonder how much better those would flow over the stock manifolds i'm using? with headers only costing ~$350, i can't imagine spending the coin to do the 5.0 'stang manifolds, but ... it's interesting nonetheless.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by shifty

you (per chance) have a link to a thread on the topic, or with pics of that particular setup?

wonder how much better those would flow over the stock manifolds i'm using? with headers only costing ~$350, i can't imagine spending the coin to do the 5.0 'stang manifolds, but ... it's interesting nonetheless.

Well, this took some doing, as LS1tech's search is acting hokey, but here's the link: Linky

They have to flow better than those logs. The Mustang shorty headers can be had for less than $100 all day long and the flanges are ~$40.

This is a quote from the guy who did it and a few pics:

Originally Posted by busta9876

Headers are a Mustang 1979-1993 factory replacement , they would bolt in place of factory header.

To open up the ports, I used a torch to heat up the ports red hot, and I used a peice of round steel stock just smaller then the tubes, and drove it into the pipes with a hammer.

The flanges you can find on ebay usually. I've seen them as cheap as $25 a set up to $75 a set.

This is an identical set to the ones I used: (this is a completed auction)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUSTA...QQcmdZViewItem

GMPP sells the flanges, GM Part# 12480130 $22.00 each

[Ford Assassin]

I wonder if these would fit without too much trouble......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02...3286.m14.l1318

[jkade]

I ran a set of mac mids on a 68 I put a ls1 in and the only required minor trimming. On my blazer I have bought a set of pacesetter long tubes for a fbody but I have custom front frame rails and they wouldn't work with the stock ones. The mac's for a fbody are hard to beat for the money and the little trimming you have to do.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by jkade

I ran a set of mac mids on a 68 I put a ls1 in and the only required minor trimming. On my blazer I have bought a set of pacesetter long tubes for a fbody but I have custom front frame rails and they wouldn't work with the stock ones. The mac's for a fbody are hard to beat for the money and the little trimming you have to do.

Well maybe the pacesetter long tubes will work on the stock frame rails, mine look just like 68 short step's and I paid less than $400 for them shipped and brand new.

[Gray Ghost]

Originally Posted by Custom 68

I am using stock Z06 manifolds they fit very well. Carcraft did an article and showed these stock manifolds performed about as well as headers. They are alot more free flowing than the other stock ones. I may eventually switch but for now they are quiet and work well. and cheap...
68 short step yours looks great!
Dave

Where did you get your manifolds and how much were they?

[Ford Assassin]

I bought some Hedman long tube headers that are meant for '98-'02 F-Body and they weren't going to work without some major work to the passenger side and they were pretty close to fitting on the drivers side, but the ran right into the stock column shifter linkage on the trans.

So for now I am just going to run stock '98-'99 F-Body manifolds. I know I am leaving some power on the table, but I'd rather have it running first, then worry about power mods.

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by Gray Ghost

Where did you get your manifolds and how much were they?

I just got a set on e vil bay for $74. They seem to usually go for about $100 though.

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

I bought some Hedman long tube headers that are meant for '98-'02 F-Body and they weren't going to work without some major work to the passenger side and they were pretty close to fitting on the drivers side, but the ran right into the stock column shifter linkage on the trans.

So for now I am just going to run stock '98-'99 F-Body manifolds. I know I am leaving some power on the table, but I'd rather have it running first, then worry about power mods.

The thing I hate about the f-body manifolds is those GINORMOUS flanges.
I don't have anything mocked up yet but Nathan at Porterbuilt said the frame had to be clearanced for them to clear. This may not be the case if you're not using a dropmember though.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

I bought some Hedman long tube headers that are meant for '98-'02 F-Body and they weren't going to work without some major work to the passenger side and they were pretty close to fitting on the drivers side, but the ran right into the stock column shifter linkage on the trans.

So for now I am just going to run stock '98-'99 F-Body manifolds. I know I am leaving some power on the table, but I'd rather have it running first, then worry about power mods.

Dough Thorley Headers made these specifically for our LSX equipped trucks.....

[Ford Assassin]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Dough Thorley Headers made these specifically for our LSX equipped trucks.....

....and they are pretty too, but I refuse to pay for a set of headers that cost more than my complete turn key 5.3.

Besides, the high cost of these headers just motions me further to just build a single or twin turbo setup using stock manifolds flipped 180*.

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

....and they are pretty too, but I refuse to pay for a set of headers that cost more than my (insert item here)

[Ford Assassin]

I ended up using the F-Body headers afterall. I had to notch the frame on the passenger side, trim the lower control arm on the drivers side, and move the collector extension on the drivers side to make them fit, but they do fit now. I will still need to plug the passenger side o2 bung and add another else where due to the frame being in the way.