Step by step Flip kit install 1 ton dually square (now with pics)

[RunninLo]

Hey gang I have to postpone my plans to bag my 1 ton dually but decided to get the flip kit for it so I can put an end to all these altitude related nose-bleeds I get when I climb up into the thing.

I have installed plenty of flips in the past but if the interest is there I would be happy to document and do a little write up on my install including tons of pics. Campy ( J Campell who is on this board and turned me on to Duallyscene.com ) already gave me a tip on modding some parts to allow me to keep my factory rear sway bar if I so desire.

Anyway parts will hopefully be in in time for me to install next week on my days off ( wed/Thurs ) let me know if this is something you guys want or if I should just go kick rocks.


Josh

[Spray-Bomb]

Sweet

[BACKYARD88]

We need all of the info we can get around here

[project 67 sub]

x2

[aggie91]

x3, COUNT ME IN!!

[lolife99]

yep,...x4

[monolith]

Perfect timing!

I'm very interested in seeing how it goes.

[RunninLo]

Update
Kudo's to Sport Truck Direct and Western Chassis the box was waiting on the steps when I got home from work today.
that's ordered around 3PM on Monday to on my steps Friday. I can't complain about anything there. The camera is charging so I will hopefully start tomorrow getting the prep work done. This will only be the actual spring flip portion as I have a large step notch that will be going in later but I know there are plenty of pics of the bolt in step notches. I'm also going to check with campy to see if it is ok to use a diagram he sent me detailing the mod to keep my sway bar. Thanks for the interest and here we go....

Josh

[RunninLo]

First off apologies to anyone still on dial-up. Here is the guinea pig. I couldn't resist gratuitus suburban shot/

[RunninLo]

1) find a hard level surface preferably concrete to park on. Get out your trusty tape measure and take measurements from the ground to the bottom of the fenderwell through the axle centerline. Jot these down as your base line measurements. I found that on the rear axle my right was slightly higher and up front the left was. that could be from a variety of reasons including but not limited to; variations in manufacturing, tire pressure variances, body spacer compression, surface irregulariies. The important thing is is your baselines drop by the same amount. For the flip I est. 6-7".



2) Block the front axle from rolling. Wester Chassis also recommends putting the trans in park and setting the e-brake

3) with a properly rated jack under the axle lift the truck and stabilize with a stout set of jackstands.


Western recommends doing the next steps one side of the vehicle at a time.

4) remove the wheels
5) remove the shocks
6) remove the u-bolts, bottom plates, and in my case sway bar mount plate.
7) lower the axle to free it from the leaf pack.

8) remove the leaf pack. I left the shackle on my pack so I knew which end went to the rear. not sure if leaf springs need to be mounted a certain way but at least now I can put them back the way they were.


the center pin of the spring pack will need to be removed so that the upper overload and spacer can be removed.

The kit was supposed to come with new shorter pins but my box had some minor shipping damage and the pins were missing. I just turned the correct 3/8-24 die ti cut the threads farther down the OE pins.

I then used a cut-off wheel to trim to the correct length.



Tonight I started to remove the overload pads and bump stop from the frame as well as complete the install but mother nature had other plans. due to a near torrential downpour the installation of the kit will have to wait for another day. I promise it will be soon as I'm anxious to see it.
here is some eye candy of the last shop truck and where I hope this will sit soon.


Josh

[dieselarmy13]

in

[lolife99]

RunninLo,... is it just the pics,... or does the right front (passenger) wheel "set back" in the wheel opening? I wondered if you had some prior frame damage?

[RunninLo]

despite the fact that the little ol lady I got it from "rubbed" it on everything , hence the fenders, the frame and suspension is straight. I think it is an optical illusion due to the fact the the lower fender is rolled in and I hadn't turned the wheels perfectly straight . It aligned great right after I bought it.

Josh

[RunninLo]

12) trimmed the spring pack center pin.


13) using a combination of cut-off wheel, angle grinder, pry bar, and BFH I removed the brackets for the overload springs.
14) using a saw-sall favoring the blade toward the bump-stop bracket to avoid frame damage I was able to "filet" the bumpstop bracket off.

15) with my now smoothe frame I used the floor jack to raise up the axle to the point where the spring pack could be installed undeneath.

16) this part slips in between the axle and the spring pack. It is very important that the hole is toward the front of the vehicle. the hole locates over the centering pin on the spring pack and allows the axle centerline to move back. this supposedly helps center the wheels in the opening and prevent driveshaft binding.

installed


17) despite it violating the "rule of scrub" i decided to try to keep my factory sway bar. the factory bracket had to be notched slightly to allow the western bottom plate to sit flush like so: diagram ctsy J Campell

18) U bolts added, proper placement of centering pins confirmed, sway bar bracket added and the nuts threaded on.

19) torqued everything to specs, reinstalled the rear wheels ( hey they're chrome, suprise!), and set her on the ground.




Well there are a few things left. I obviously need to get my spindles installed as well as trim the springs for now to get the front level. The running boards are next to go and even though I was hoping to save notching the frame for when the bags and SFBD are completed the rear axle currently rests on the frame. I guess I will need to deal with that sooner rather than later.
I'll post a pic here once it sits level and has had a bath but the rest of the work will be in the build thread I started last year if I can find it.

Josh
hope this was enough help to someone to justify the space it took up on the board.

[RunninLo]

just wanted to add the finished shot with the front down. Nevermind the fact that now that it is this far I have decided since I already have ,tank valves, dc comp + EDC + N setup, bags, front cups/plates, and steel to fab the rear link/watts that I will just get started on the bodydrop and bags.
anyway heres the pic with the static drop:

And who would've guessed the wheels were chrome from the first couple of pics? still need a light rub down with some 0000 steel wool and some chrome wheel acid but they are shinin up pretty nice.
Josh

[smashingchuck]

Sweet running boards.

[joe231]

sweet!!

I looked for your build thread but couldn't find it

[kev2809]

nice dually, cant wait for the stbd project. i would take off that camper though if your not gonna use it

[RunninLo]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

Sweet running boards.

they will be getting "drug" off asap

Originally Posted by joe231

sweet!!

I looked for your build thread but couldn't find it

that's because I was confused and meant this post http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=298820 which strangely enough you posted in Now trhat I have something to show I'll start a proper build thread for it.

Originally Posted by kev2809

nice dually, cant wait for the stbd project. i would take off that camper though if your not gonna use it

BD will be waiting till burb is draggin. Need to keep at least one vehicle capable of relieving stress instead of creating. As for the shell it is staying for the long term although I have to remove it to adjust the bed for rear suspension. I may roll without it for a bit to see how the roll down rear window works open air but ultimately dig the look of the cab high shells. Subs will be just on the other side of the roll down so if I want bass... drop the window and turn the subs on. gonna do 2 eclipse titanium 15's in the bed for boom and a single 8" ( maybe a 10") in the center console for every day driving.

Josh

[joe231]

Originally Posted by RunninLo

that's because I was confused and meant this post http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=298820 which strangely enough you posted in Now trhat I have something to show I'll start a proper build thread for it.

Josh

I got short timers disease

[ratty 46]

Sub'd on this one too.

Ratty 46

[N2TRUX]

Nice write up. Just when I was about to ask for a night view of those sweet light up grab handles you nixed them. Whats up with that?...

[joe231]

well, since it was brought back up....Josh, do you know the thickness of the metal on that flip bracket saddle?

[RunninLo]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Nice write up. Just when I was about to ask for a night view of those sweet light up grab handles you nixed them. Whats up with that?...

2 missing 1 broke seemed only natural to nix them. Was gonna donate them to KD with red bulbs to make handles for his coffin in the hearse.

Originally Posted by joe231

well, since it was brought back up....Josh, do you know the thickness of the metal on that flip bracket saddle?

IIRC 1/4" but may have only been 3/16th I'll put the calipers on it once the temp get out of the single digits. Working on Insulation and sheetrock for the shop finally so postponing all vehicle work save for maintainance till it's done

Josh

[Twitchin R&C]

hey. thanks for this write up. your truck looks sweet. i have a couple of questions. first what tire size are you running? and second, with this drop, do you have any steering clearance problems like with the fenders or inner fenders? thanks