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Old 01-26-2011, 04:39 PM   #1
peglegs
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Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

found this at my local lumber yard from Ospho a phosphoric acid that prepares rusted surface's for painting it eat all the rust over night, left it black & coated the metal with a semi gloss coating and im concerned about painting now. i contacted the company and the tech said that im ok to coat with my nason (dupont) self etching primer and catylized black enamel just curious if all is well here & that it wont lift but will do a test piece 1st. im curious if anyone has used this b-4 & so far its excellent & user friendly any opinions please, thanks a bunch
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:13 PM   #2
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

I was always under the impression you had to rinse the acid off after a 30 minute resonance. That was using the POR 15 Metal Ready solution (essentially just phosphoric acid). Anyway, after I rinsed it I applied my POR 15. Different paint in a different scenario but more information may be required.

Did you apply it onto a paint? or onto bare metal?
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:21 PM   #3
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

ospho has ben around forever. it and "naval jelly" used to be the 2 options.
i have used it on trailers and implements.
just scuffed it up after it was dry and applied primer / paint.
the horse trailer i did for my nighbor, lasted pretty good and the roof was solid surface rust...
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:48 PM   #4
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

gobbles, instructions dont indicate any rinsing at all. i applied it to suspension parts with light rust, bare metal with some factory grey paint.

primrrd, thanks i will take your advice & scuff, what primer/paint did u use?

my big concern here is,

Will my self etching primer adhere to this coating?
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Last edited by peglegs; 01-26-2011 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:32 PM   #5
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

I soak rusty parts in phosphoric acid I buy by the gallon from Home depot. After I remove a part from it I rinse and scrub it. If it is small enough it then goes in the blasting cabinet for further cleaning. If it is larger I hit it with a knotted wire wheel or 80 grit paper to get to clean metal.

I would not apply any primer or other paint product to a acid dipped part after just a rinse.
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:05 PM   #6
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

on the stuff I purchased it says you can do either way. rinse with water or just let dry to black coating. But no matter how you do it you should clean with a wax and grease remover and scuff it up prior to any paint. And remember this stuff will etch your concrete, they use it for concrete staining. good luck
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:15 PM   #7
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

I have always been told you shouldn't put etching primer over any type of acid product.The acid has already etched the metal.
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:56 PM   #8
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

I have used similar products from both Dupont and PPG. I follow the directions on the bottle. I then squirt epoxy primer on the part. Some of my parts were "treated" more than 10 years ago and suffered no return from the rust.
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:04 PM   #9
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

I was curious of letting a part soak in Phosphoric Acid.
If it has seams, it'd be good to let it soak into all nooks and crannies.
But then, if we're supposed to rinse off before painting, what would be the issue if we didn't get it all rinsed out?
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:21 PM   #10
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

I used a product from eastwood called afterblast that leaves a zinc type coating behind and I think it was asid bassed but you sprayed on let it work for a bit then wiped off excess.
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Old 02-01-2011, 01:41 AM   #11
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

i coated a rusty pipe with the phosphorus & let it dry w/o rinsing off with water, let stand for a few days and applied a catalyzed epoxy self etching primer in one area and a catalyzed primer surfacer to my sample let cure for 3 days now and .....no lifting, crazing & tough as nails. tomorrow i will apply the catalyzed topcoat. im certainly not a pro at this and would really like some feed back on this........from anyone thanks
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:02 PM   #12
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

I did a frame off a a 68' P/u about 15 years ago and I used ospho on everything that had rust. I sanded everything down to bare metal sprayed with ospho, let it dry and then I sanded it back off. Sealed with a PPg etching primer, then a k-36 primer and then PPG paint and clear. Truck still lokks good today.
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:19 PM   #13
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

picklex is an acid based produst also..

Picklex 20 is used to convert the rust then a primer or rust coating can be applied to protect the surface from the elements.

Rusted metal that is converted using Picklex 20 should NOT be primed using an etch primer. The chemicals in most etch primers are not compatible with Picklex 20. Use epoxy primer if possible.

PPg says NOT to use etch primers over metal treatments..
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:33 PM   #14
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Re: Phosphoric Acid Rust Neutralizer

Okay, So far I'm reading good things about WaxOyl.
So after you kill the Rust, you use WaxOyl which seeps into all the nook and crannies and seals with a semi-soft shell.

Here is a member who has a post about it:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lippyp View Post
Waxoyl's website is here http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/waxoyl.htm
Dinitrol is here http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/
Bilt-Hamber is here http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/shoppingbasket.php

Waxoyl comes in cans that can be applied with either a simple pastic pump and tube with a nozzle that fits straight on the gallon cans or it can be applied using a compressor powered gun, same with Dinitrol, the Bilthamber Dynax wax comes in a big aerosol with a built in tube. All of them will benefit from being stood in a bucket of hot water for a while to make sure the wax is as runny as possible, ideally you want a warm day to apply it on so the wax will flow into the nooks and crannys and joints, however do it out of direct sunlight, if a panel is too hot it'll just slide right off! Once it's set then its not a problem. It's a horrible messy job though, drive the vehicle onto a sheet of plastic that you can throw away afterwards, wear some really old clothes and a hat and just be prepared to pump a couple of gallons into all the box sections, inside panels and doors etc (drill holes if neccesary and then plug with little plastic plugs). I know waxoyl and Dinitrol also do an underseal type product in black or clear for use on the underside of the vehicle too.
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