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Old 06-27-2011, 11:20 AM   #1
jlsanborn
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My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

I've got a C10 project started and thought I'd share. I look forward to any help or advice I can get and also hope to pass along what I learn in the process.

The objective is a driver. The budget is under $10K (how far under depends on who you talk to!). The drivetrain is to be small block and M21. Wheels will be 5 on 5 15" rallies. Ride height is being debated, but for sure will run on drop spindles and springs.

So far we've got the rear in process and hope to have the major stuff painted by next weekend. I have yet to really determine what I need for the rear end and maybe you folks can clear it up for me?

The way I understand it is that a disc brake conversion will widen the track by 1-1/2". I also believe that a '71-'72 12 bolt is also 1-1/2" wider and is already 5 on 5. Will that rear end bolt in without mods? Is that what I should be looking for, or should I be getting new axles?

What drop spindles should I get? Not necessarily ride height, but model year for disc brakes. If I get spindles for '71-'72, will I only then need donor rotors and calipers? Will those spindles bolt up?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:06 PM   #2
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Welcome to the board!
There is alot of info here, on doing the disc brake conversion:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...68&postcount=4
I would look for a complete 71-72 rearend.
They should be a bolt in swap.

What most people don't realize is,... the front track width on the trucks has always been wider from the factory.
Look at your first picture.
It's easy to see, that the front tires stick outside the fenders more than the rear tires.
Adding the disc brakes makes it worse.

I like to use different width wheels to help correct this.
(either 8's and 10's or 7's and 8's)
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:30 PM   #3
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Awesome thanks! So if I go with 71-72 drop spindles, the 71-72 ball joints and tie rod ends will match up with my A-arms and tie rods?
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:49 PM   #4
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Yes.
You can swap all those parts.
They are all compatable with your a-arms.
Spindles, ball joints and tie rods (with $50 adapter sleeves)

But it's so much simpler to buy new spindles that use your existing balljoints and tie rods.
Change nothing.
www.PerformanceOnline.com sells these conversion spindles every day for $228.
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Old 06-27-2011, 02:03 PM   #5
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

That's the ticket! Now to find my donor 71-72.....
Thanks!
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:09 PM   #6
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Found a guy parting a '71 Burban C10

3.73 posi rear - I think he means that Gov-Lock locking diff like I have in my K30. Prolly don't want that do I? He wants $200, which I think is a little steep. Local U-Pick bone yard is $90 for a rearend, but they don't have what I need currently. Should I snag this one or keep looking?

Power steering box - little trimming on the bumper bracket and it'll bolt in right?

Rear chrome bumper for $100 - bolt on right?

Rotors and calipers for the "adapter spindles" I'm getting. Should I snag the brake lines or is there something better? Should I get the prop valve?

What else else would be good pickins?
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:51 PM   #7
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

i paid 150 for a 5 lug coilspring 373 1 wheel peal rearend and was pretty happy to get it (didnt have to pull it and it had nice paint already on it..)
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:03 AM   #8
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

I found another five lug rear that I'll prolly pick up this Sunday. I'd like to order the conversion spindles, which are a 2-1/2" drop. What coils should I get to go with those? Think -3"?
Also, are those wheel widths customs or OEM? Are there certain models I can look for to get 7's, 8's or 10's?
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:24 PM   #9
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

That last rear end turned out to be six lug - dammit! I was starting to wish I had just paid $200 for the first one I found, then..... I got a hit back from a c-list "tons of chevy parts" ad. I'm picking up a 3.08 out of a '71 GMC in about ten minutes! Even better, I offered $150, the guy giggled and said "how about $100?". I'm stoked. Just orderd my "conversion" drop spindles. Now to find some wheels.... Ad on c-list for 8's and 10's with tires for $350. Sounds steep. Did they ever make an OEM 10" wheel, or are these aftermarket? More pics to come
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:28 PM   #10
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Nice truck Not sure if your gonna run trailing arms or leaf springs but most GMC's had leaf spring rear suspension.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:40 PM   #11
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

beautiful truck im sure youll make that diamond shine.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:14 PM   #12
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

It's in the shop, finally! Came really complete, nice drums and even a pair of wheels/tires. The best thing was that it was sitting on the guy's shop floor, so I didn't have to yard it out of some old crusty wagon.
My next mission is to the pick-n-pull for rotors/calipers. What donors would be good for power brakes? What about power steering?
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:29 PM   #13
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Looks good. Was that out of a coil sprung truck...it looks like it but hard to tell.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:39 PM   #14
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Yup. It's got the panhard bar, and the U-bolt flanges are angled to match the trailing arms. My boy should be at home cleaning it up for paint while I'm here at work SLAVING on 67-72!
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:56 PM   #15
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

I just swapped mine out from a 72 to my 70 the width of the rear housings are the same and the 5 lug axles are the same length of the 6 lug so I just swapped out the backing plates, drums and axles. I also put the complete front suspension in cross member and all, the only mod is the front 2 bolts that screw into the frame need to be modified I got lucky with mine the PO put new calipers and rotors on so that saved me some bucks.. You can use the complete front suspension all the way up to 87 on the pick up and to 91 on the 2wd blazers and suburban’s, the 73 up have better A arm bushing's and the Proportioning Valve is down on the cross member and not on the Master cylinder. Hope this helps and good luck
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:59 AM   #16
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Got the rear ready to go last night. The diff is an open with 3.08's, but is tight and clean. That'll be just fine for now. Re-sealed and all cleaned up. Got most of the other bits cleaned, primed and painted too. Drop spindles should be here today, but will sit for a while until I get it's rear legs back on the ground. Just gonna stuff the old springs back in there until I can decide what to get for the rear to match the 2-1/2 spindles.
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:14 PM   #17
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

So I've got the rear mostly back together. I just stuffed the old crusty springs back in there so I could roll it around. I've gotta get the brakes adjusted so I can drag it around behind the shop for a good pressure washing and degreasing and then I'll tear the old spindles out. I've still got to find some donor rotors / calipers at the pick-n-pull. I've gotta stop and clean the friggin pig-pen shop up a little first tho! Still no suggestions on rear springs to go with the 2-1/2 spindles????
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:36 PM   #18
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Looking like a nice project. If you're doing just 2 1/2" spindles I'd go with 4" rear springs. The best drop on these trucks (IMHO) is a 4.5/6 though. Which would be a 2" spring in the front with the spindles and a 6" rear spring or 4" rear with a 2" rear block.
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Old 08-17-2011, 01:52 PM   #19
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Wow, i'm on a slow budget here, but am making progress.

We've got the drop spindles on and it's turned into a big argument with the boy! He's such a damn Chevy "purist" and if it were up to him we'd have stock ride height on stock rubber! I couldn't help myself and cut one wrap off the front springs. I ground a bit of the spring flat on the bottom so that it sat in the lower A-arm a little nicer too. That made the free spring about 1-1/4" shorter (although it seems that folks around here feel that one wrap off the bottom drops you 2" ???). We used blocks to try and mock up the final ride height and determine what springs I should get for the back. I thought he was going to cry, I think it looks awesome!
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:00 PM   #20
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

I like it.
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:47 PM   #21
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Thanks! I'll pass that along to the little whiner.
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Old 08-17-2011, 05:54 PM   #22
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Looks good! So, was the 1 1/4" the actual spring measurement before compressing it? I've also heard it's 2+ inches with a coil cut....with the spindles in the front and blocks in the rear I'd think a 4" rear drop spring would be ideal to keep a little rake into it...but not too much...
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:17 PM   #23
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Yep, cutting one wrap and grinding the bottom just a little for fit made the springs 1-1/4" shorter. That's decompressed, sitting on the bench. I'm thinking the same (-4"), but am gonna wait til its sitting on rubber before I order springs.
Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:52 PM   #24
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Lookin good mate. Ride hieght looks good but you can never go to low haha whats the plan body wise?
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:02 PM   #25
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

I haven't yet decided on a color. I'll for sure use something off the OEM paint chip though. I'd really like to go with silver, but I'm afraid of how straight things will need to be in that color. I'll otherwise pick a blue or green.
The truck spent most of its years in California, so there's not a ton of rust. It's never been hit or used for hard work from what I can tell. It will need a drivers side rocker panel and there's a few holes that need filled. The drip rails also have some rust, but I don't think I'll replace them. Was there some sort of caulking or filler used in there from the factory? The PO went CRAZY with silicone and had filled all the drip rails with that. Digging it out of there revealed a bit of rust.
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