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Old 02-08-2012, 12:42 PM   #1
LostMy65
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X-Frame - good or bad?

So, I've been searching...

60-62

I see some cut out the 'X'. some leave it.

Is the 'X-Frame' good or bad?
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:07 PM   #2
61_FL_Apache
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Re: X-Frame - good or bad?

I have had both. I would prefer with out. My 65 was easy to work on with out that in the way. But the 61 has given me a place to mount the bags in the rear. I have them where the X meets the rest of the frame and that worked perfect.

Also with the X you will have tortion suspension in the front. That also adds another crossmember where the adjustments are. I had a little tough time getting my tranny out with that in the way.
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:56 PM   #3
markeb01
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Re: X-Frame - good or bad?

If I ever saw a 60-66 frame with no X in the center I would just assume it’s a 63-66 chassis. The stock 60-62 frame is basically what old school convertible cars received. Many passenger cars used a typical perimeter frame with straight across crossmembers (similar to a 63-72 truck chassis), while the convertibles received the huge reinforcing X to make up for the loss of body strength when the roof was removed.

From a barnyard engineering standpoint it would seem IMHO the 60-62 X frame is far stronger than the comparatively flimsy construction of the 63-72 chassis. GM propaganda at the time claimed the new chassis was in fact stronger (and certainly much lighter), because the frame rails were now tempered steel. I’m not sure I accept that argument as valid, since I’ve seen many perimeter frames bend under the weight of a heavy cab over camper, and I’ve never seen a 60-62 frame allow any deflection at all unless damaged in a wreck.

It would seem removing the full X support from a 60-62 frame would be dangerous, since the side rails are shorter in vertical height than 63-72 frames, are supposedly not tempered, and were not engineered for the absence of this critical component.

If you replace the original torsion bar front suspension crossmember with the later coil spring version, the small anchor crossmember at the rear of the torsion bars can also be unbolted and removed.

If your question is would it be okay to slice out the X member from a 60-62 frame to approximate the open space and convenience of a 63-72 frame, I would recommend swapping to the entire later chassis instead.
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:06 PM   #4
LostMy65
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Re: X-Frame - good or bad?

I plan on keeping it because all the upgrades the previous owner did to the front and rear suspension. It's just I have read of members either cutting out the x or swapping out to the 63-66 frame.
I just wanted to know what the big negative was about the x frame. I do think the torsions make for a nice ride. My 65 with the 62 frame rides like a car.
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:47 PM   #5
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Re: X-Frame - good or bad?

The biggest drawback to the 60-62 frame is that compared to the 63-72 chassis, the aftermarket provides almost no support. This includes suspension components, engine mounts, transmission crossmembers, gas tanks, brakes, rear axle kits, etc. In the last few years some brake kits and spindles have come on the market, but before that almost nothing was offered for the 60-62's.
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:50 PM   #6
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Frame Schematic:
http://dycj3g.bay.livefilestore.com/...Schematic3.jpg
http://dycj3g.bay.livefilestore.com/...Schematic2.jpg

The half-ton and 3/4-ton cab models utilized a, drop-center, X-type frame assembly between 1960-1962. This construction was necessary to beef up the frame because of the new four-wheel independent suspension system, especially for the front torsion bars. The new frame construction coupled with the new cab styling, which was 3.88-inches lower than the previous cab, reduced overall vehicle height by up to seven inches. Wheelbase length for the half-ton was increased by one inch to 115 inches and on the the 3/4-ton by 3 3/4-inches to 127 inches, but the one-ton was decreased by 2 inches to 133 inches.

I have never was a fan the torsion bar front suspension, but I am a big fan of Mustang II IFS. Most guys do this on thier Hot Rods, Street Rods, Cars and Trucks.
The most common 3 are -Mustang II IFS - Camaro - Nova Stub Frames.
In my application with the Mustang II IFS Clip I lost a lot of weight removing the torsion bar front suspension. Gained disk brakes and gained better ride quality and handling characteristics. If anyone chooses to go with this route you have to make sure the geometry is right. Now my truck had alot of bump steer in it that I had to take care of as you see in a couple of my videos. I also have 2" Drop Spindles on her too.. Now it looks like I will need to raise it 1/2" inch or an inch after I have been driving it a while. Already adjusted the rear coilovers to adjust for the weight of the bed.
My father and I cut out the X out mainly so we can put the cross member for the TH350. When we got rid of it we had to Box and Relieve the frame to make it strong.
https://public.bay.livefilestore.com...g/IMAG1436.jpg

Build Thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=321173

Pics of frame back in the day of the Frame.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...ryanLail17.jpg
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...ryanLail14.jpg
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...ryanLail18.jpg
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...ryanLail19.jpg




LOOK HERE FELLAS:
Heavy Duty Mustang II Independent Front Suspension crossover kits
M26062CT 1960-62 Chevy Trucks $439.99
http://www.streetrodengineering.com/...gllifskits.htm
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Old 02-09-2012, 09:03 AM   #7
GMR-PERFORMANCE
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Re: X-Frame - good or bad?

One thing is the X frame is wider than the later versions.. ASK me how I know. Funny stuff. Mine came from there factory with coil overs as far as I can tell, number wise and looking for items that would show where the t bars had been removed. Could never find any thing that showed it was a torsion to start with.

After market stuff can get spendy and I am thank ful that many others did the leg work and trial and error on finding out what parts would work. No way would I ever pay for parts from a online place when you can go to a salavage yard and get them for 70% less money and have OEM parts.

I bought all of my new a arms steering box, linkage, rotors calipers etc for under 200 bucks. I was picky and was able to find a set of rotors that where new with very little wear, same for the calipers ( they where on the same truck) I found another truck that had a rebuilt ( looked new) power steering box, another had all new drag link idler arm and inner tie rods... Sure it took me all day but the only parts I bought new for my front end where the a arm bushings and the dropped spindels from CCP and 1 inch lower springs. I relocated the upper stock shock mounts back to keep them aligned..
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