I6 and a T5, Yet another cat skinned (65 C10 SBSS)

[Sharps40]

Well, I'll be dipped in crap. JEGs lists a 25 tooth driven gear....no dimensions, no photo, just indicates its in stock. So, guess I'll try orderin it tonight. I already jotted down my measurements off the currently installed 20 tooth drive gear. Perhaps the gamble will pay off and this OER part will solve my sppeeeeddddyy speedemommeter issues.

[Sharps40]

Hey ol bleu, I see ya readin...don't ya go orderin the onliest one, its MINE!!!!

[Old Bleu]

Nah, you tell me if it works, and THEN I'll order it! You're my super hero, and I'm just following along.

Sure glad your coolant leak looks like a mnor issue!

[Sharps40]

Me too...shoulda figured it was easy stead of pannickin...but it was sunday and I was outta cigars and .....

Yep, I'm orderin the speedo gear and a nice lokar leather boot and trim ring and cap tonight...install as soon as I get it back from the shop (doubt it'll come in the mail before I travel) and if it works to slow down my speedo, WOO HOO!

[Sharps40]

More updates at post #2, parts.

Pics tonight!

[Old Bleu]

OK, Rich, my tranny had a 19 tooth driven gear. We replaced it today with a 24 tooth and a new bullet to stop the ATF leak. I am very pleased with what the 5 additional teeth did for my speedometer. At an indicated 50 mph on my speedometer, the Garmin is bouncing between 48 and 49 mph. On a 49 year old truck, I think I'll call that spot on. I believe that you said you are going from 20 to 25 teeth, so you ought to see a comparable change.

The new bullet was $6.89 and the gear was $10.90 at a local transmission shop, so you might want to think about a new bullet with a fresh seal and o-ring and maybe not need your old friend, blue goo.

[Sharps40]

I can't live without blu goo. I am findin it the perfect shade for scratch touch up on the fenders and hood.

[Sharps40]

Saying goodby to an old friend....The working end of the three on the tree...



Slide the old rotten boot up outta the way so you can drift out the roll pin.



Pull the pin, the lever, the lever spring and the flat spring thingie.

[Sharps40]

Here is a photo tour of the LMC Heim Joint linkage that we installed. Some more tweaking to do but in conjunction with a new pusher nut for the fork, a slop free, noise free set up.

Inside, under the dash, the working end of the down rod that goes thru the new boot in the floor to one end of the z bar.



And down underneath, you note the bottom of the down rod where the heim nut contacts the frame....we'll adjust rods or clearance the frame later, for now we have excellent clutch action.

Also note the Peterbuilt return spring, think we're gonna swap for something a bit lighter, save some wear and tear on my knee joint in traffic.

There is about 1.5" clearance between the heim joint and the exhaust, plenty of room.

And finally, the clutch rod and the new pusher nut on the outer engagement of the clutch fork. All 4 joints are adjustable for length. Should be no reason you can't get a good clutch set up with this and I spect it'll remain bullet proof and tight for many long years.

Please also note, the z bar is completely rebuilt with new balls, seats, felts, retainers, and a big dollop of grease in, out and around.

[Sharps40]

Here is the left side (DS) of the emergency brake cross member.

Originally it was riveted to the inside of the frame....up at post #5 I detailed blowing out the 4 rivets and replacing them with bolts for two reasons: Ease of installing the longer T5 and to reinstall it under the frame later to clear the T5 and retain the 1965 Ebrake assembly in near factory form - total factory function.

As you can see, the xmember rests on the underside of the frame and the spacers only serve to prevent crushing it as the bolts are drawn up.



With this simple reposition, the gap between the new T5 and the original 1965 Ebrake mechanism is large enough to comfortably stick my hand into...plenty of room.



I have a factory style Walker Head Pipe, single exhaust. Here on the Left (Drivers) side, a slight mod to the ebrake cross member to maximize exhaust clearance. Simply shave off the flanges on the cross member yielding over an inch of clearance between exhaust and cross member.



And on the passenger side? Simple, bolt it back up with a couple of spacers, adjust the ebrake as needed and yer truck won't roll away.



As you can see, with the Astro Van T5 (S10 tail housing) and as Ol Bleu discovered with his S10 T5, NO Need To Go To A 1966 Ebrake Assembly. Use whatcha got. Betcha it'd even work on some of them crazy lowered trucks. Amazing, folks are lowerin em as much as an inch or two these days.

[Sharps40]

Over on the drivers side front of the New Astro Van T5....No drillin the ears. Factory size bolts went right into place....but who knows, they mighta already been drilled for 1/2 bolts or modded later in life...but anyway,

Plenty of room on there to use regular bolts and nuts and socket wrenches. No special hex head bolts needed. We also put all new guts in the bell housing, pivot ball, fork, boot, etc.



And over on the passenger side front of the Astro Van T5, same, same....factory bolts and nuts, installed with socket wrenches. No clearance issues.



In case anybody is wondering, I labeled the Trans ATF Only. Per Mr Langdon, Stovebolt Engine Company, this NWC T5 takes ATF ONLY NO GEAR OIL.

[Sharps40]

The Astro Van T5 Transmission is a direct bolt on to the 1965 bell housing.

The input shaft and collar needed no (Zero) modification to fit.

The 11" Astro Van clutch kit was used, it includes clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot pushing.

An new flywheel, 14.150" diameter, 168 tooth supporting an 11" clutch was required as the 1965 flywheel was drilled only for a 10" clutch kit. The flywheel is common for I6, V6, V8, Cars/Trucks, etc. We are finalizing and ensuring the PNs listed in post #2 are correct for you.

So, I have a heavy duty clutch in my bell housing and new unblemished flywheel, its all new, its all Chevrolet, there were Zero (NO) modifications and its easy to remember.

1965 Bell Housing (including the parts that bolt to the housing)

1984 to 1990 Chevy Astro Van V6 (262 cu in) 11" diameter clutch kit.

Even I can remember that later when I need a new clutch and I can get any of it serviced anywhere!

[Sharps40]

Driveshaft Specialist of Texas drive shaft. Under $400, 3" steel, custom made, all new parts, painted, balanced, new yokes, spicer joints, Bomb Proof. 4 days order to installed in the truck.

Up front, the fine spline yoke and spicer at the aft of the T5.



Looking down the shaft to the aft end of the truck....



And out back another good spicer. I gotta treat John Lee to some of them fancy aluminium bullet proof rear cap retainers.

[Sharps40]

There is more. Still gotta drill and paint and boot the homemade shift lever. Gotta finish tweakin the linkage.....etc. So some more pics are comeing. I'll finish this or start a clean How To Tread with bullet statements and appropriate pics in 1, 2, 3 order.

For now, ordering the boot and a tranny speedo gear to correct my speedometer and I got a rear main seal leak so it looks like we're gonna get some warranty coverage on 3 December when we go back to the shop for final tune and adjustments after the break in runs.

[Sharps40]

Photos in the Xmember post are now corrected...managed to post multiple copies of the same pic on the first go round.

[Sharps40]

Done, Speedo gear and boot are ordered from Jegs. Might be a delay on the speedo gear. So, if I can find one local, I'll return the one from Jegs when/if it comes in.

[Sharps40]

Starting some of the detail work....shifter boot here. Added to the parts list at post 2 as well.

Now is not the right time for drillin the floor to install the Lokar 70-CLB shifter boot. Gotta pull the old mat, clean up, position and drill the trim ring and then reinstall the new floor mat and boot on a more permanent basis.

But I'll trim some mat and set the new boot in place for the nonce and it looks pretty fine for under $40 from Jegs. Free delivery too.

That said, the mat is trimmed and tucked in around the base of the original S10 shifter dust boot. I slid on the Lokar foam doughnut but wound up takein it off....my adapter is tall enough to hold up the boot without the doughnut. Who knows, permanent install, maybe it'll go back on.

And, gotta sand and paint that nice shifter shaft but I'm actually thinkin of doin it in slow rust black (a gun finish) and topcoating with a matt clear. Nicer than paint...the black don't peal and if the clear does, hit it again to touch up.

Nice also to note, the mounting screws are pretty much dead ringers for the trim and visor screws on our trucks...so at least from that perspective, (a lil detail) it'll look factory when done.



Just droppin John Lee's new glove into place. The Lokar boot has a center ring that is just a bit larger than that fancy homemade 5/8" diameter shifter lever. No worries then...it might even fit a 3/4" diameter shaft...I'll have ta remeasure if ya have ta know.



A view from the seat in 1st gear...not shabby at all.



And from the drivers side....very nice, Sharp Dressed Man I believe....

[Sharps40]

In the never ending quest to locate and/or create places to put stuff in our trucks...and given the recent Astro Van T5 install has relieved me of a prime location for my double cup holder (just in front of the bench seat an instantly at hand....)...I give you....

Passenger Cup Holder. (Ala WalMart Sporting Goods Section, few bucks only)

The glove box....ever unassuming and quite thin walled but it can be made better than before.....



Open the door, three divots to place cups when sitting still at the drive in.....not so much for actually driving....



A bracket of 1/8" aluminum flat stock. Riveted into the center section at the base where the double wall is far enough apart to rivet with out drilling clean thru to the face.....



Center drill and screw on to the bracket and inexpensive porcelain coated steel coffee mug from the sporting goods section of Wal-Mart. Get it? Cup Holder?



Works great for them big soda and water bottles....



A 32oz gut buster don't go all the way to the bottom....a wider cup would work but it sits in there good and short of driving thru cones at 65 mph, it oughta sit just fine....



And when yer done, haul out yer trash and close the glove box door.

Now I gotta find a suitable spot and solution for a drivers side cup holder.

[Lugnutz65]

What will the glove box lid do when you go over a bump?

[Sharps40]

It stays where its at cause I rebuilt the suspension and put real metal springs on it for proper height and control....Unlike many, I can actually go right over the yellow lines with room to spare under John Lee and bumps and potholes feel pretty smooth on a new set of joints! Nothin bottoms out or drags or grinds or anything. Its wonderfully smooth for a glovebox soda. Besides, who cares, the floor mat is rubber, the seat is vinyl and the cup holder is on GoodWife's side. If it bounces clear out she better catch it or get wet.

[Larry64]

Sharps40
Thanks so much for the write up on how to do the e-brake. Mine had to be notched a little higher at the exhaust to clear it. Now, would you have any idea on how much shorter you speedometer cable would have to be to fit right?
Thanks again Larry

[Sharps40]

Yer welcome. I need to finish this thread with a step by step linked summary. But shop has John Lee for final tweaks and I'm travelin. As for the speedo cable - longer is needed f/T5 swap but my choice of the 83" is nearly too long. I think a short extension woulda been fine. Perhaps 10 to 12 inches only.

[Larry64]

Thanks for taking time to answer the question during your travels.
Larry

[Sharps40]

You got it Sir!

Okay, this got kinda drawn out so I'll open up a separate thread and block out panels to run thru the install from acquisition to completion. That way it'll be an uninterrupted step by step.

Take me a day or so, got some new pics now John Lee is back home and I'm getting some driving time in this wee between travels for work. But the clutch is now fully articulated and easier to press down than the original clutch on the peanut and the secondary on the carb feels more powerful. Still waitin on that 25 tooth speedo gear to see if I can the the MPH corrected but its 99% done and I'm loving it!

The new/cleaned up install thread can be found here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=607402

[Old Bleu]

Speaking of speedometer cables, I just noticed that the new longer cable I installed for my T5 had slipped down and touched the top of the muffler and the cover started to melt. Got to get back under there and tie that thing up out of harms way.