Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I could not fit all the progress in just 1 post. I suppose that's a good thing! I can't wait for my dad to see it - makes me feel like a little boy again.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I am working hard at it. Well, at least until I got sick Wed night. Hoping to get out again soon.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

These following pictures may not show much progress at first glance, but they represent 3 bottles of MIG gas and over 100 hours of welding / grinding. It is really getting close!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

That's a very interesting build going on. Hope you finish it soon. :chevy:

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Love this build and the story behind it :D I hope we get to see some updates really soon!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

ATVYP the steering box worked great thank u
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Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Hey this is Carlos from Showwheels, I have been through your post and read your incredible story and the great work you have been putting together. I see that you have already acquire a set of wheels for your project, but in case you change your mind. I would like to offer our services, and will put a good deal together for you, to help you out on your build. You can check us out at www.showwheelsusa.com or you can contact me at sales@showwheelsusa.com 714-524-3100. I've also attached a picture of a 1940 Chevy as well so you can get an idea of our wheels will look like on your truck build.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Porch: I'm glad the steering box worked well! It was pleasant meeting you and your family. I wish you the best of luck and hope we run into each other again sometime.
Carlos from Showwheels: Thanks for your offer, and I will let you know when I get a little closer to road-worthiness. I checked out your website and it looks like you have some great stuff.

It has been a CRAZY summer with teen church camp, pre-teen church camp, the MO State FWB Meeting, the National Association of Free Will Baptist Meeting in Memphis, VBS, and all the other schedule filling items that fill the calendar of many youth pastors. It was a great summer and we accomplished much great stuff, but I'm ready for a "routine" - if there is such a thing! The boys are back in school anyway.

So I definitely have some off-time built up from working 24/7 for several weeks in a row over the summer. As soon as I got caught up (with paper work, office stuff, helping Dad fix his Onan powered mower, and the list of honey-dos) I headed out to work on my toy! It's amazing how the stress disappears and nothing else seems to matter so much when you get lost in loud background music and the noise and sparks of a grinder.

I spent last Saturday at the Springfield, MO swap meet. WOW! Talk about a HUGE swap meet! I had never seen such a massive event. I wish they had been able to organize it somehow, perhaps between different types of venders. We walked from 7am - 5pm and never hit the same isle twice. That is a good way to catch the car-bug and build some personal motivation to come home and get to work! I learned a few things 1) Very few people put new stuff on old cars. Perhaps the electronic stuff scares some? 2) I was really surprised how much sloppy work is out there. Well-done builds are few and far between in the "real world" - and I apologize if I just slammed anyone. Why don't people take a second longer and do things right? 3) These old cars and trucks are worth A LOT more money than I realized, or that they use to be. I guess they aren't making any more of them. It doesn't take much to build a $25,000 - $35,000 vehicle.

So I've been working. Here are a few pictures.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

For some details: I am at the point where my 110 MIG welder was not hot enough to give a smooth looking and good penetrating top weld. I considered having all the final welds TIG welded for appearance sake, but I lucked out! A good friend hooked me up with a really nice 220 Miller MIG, and this welder does such a better job with the final welds. So I am going over everything with a fine tooth comb, grinding what I don't like to look at and filling it in with something that is up to par. The good thing is that everything is structurally sound, but the appearance of a sloppy weld will really drive me crazy down the road.

I have been working on the backing plate for my boxing plate bow tie symbols. I was not able to fit 1 single sheet metal into the slot, but I found something that works even better. I cut the plates in 1/2 and have assembled them with machine screws. Using a template, I was able to drill every plate and hole exactly where it was necessary without worrying about imperfection. I spent an entire 2 days dressing up the bow tie holes with files / grinders / and finished with a rolox pad. I believe they are really close to perfect now. Down the road I will use the stainless steel allen head screws where the temporary standard ones are now. I am really pleased with how they are turning out. When the frame is painted a charcoal color and all the brackets and backing plates are black, I think it will really "pop" in a good way.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

All the plates had to be recessed to fit around the steering knuckle bearing and various other bulkhead connectors / ect.

It was time to mock up the brake master components also. It wasn't too bad cutting / threading the booster shaft off the 93' Vette. It was some HARD material, but I took it slow and it turned out well.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

My twins are always in the middle of the mess! (It's probably obvious why I get so much more done when they are in school? Perhaps they are future American hot rodders too?). This old truck is lots of fun! I believe the journey is as fun as the test drive will be, someday.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

looks nice! keep up the good work and keep pressing on!

Do you have to do bodywork too?

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I'm sure there will be some body work to do, but for the most part it's all done (although it will need re-spraying at very least). A family friend, Dick Schiller did the body work in the early 90's. He is very good at what he does, and everything has help up extrodinary. In fact, that has been one of the real joys of working on this truck the second time is it's like working on a brand new vehicle. The first time around we had to deal with rust, dirt, and old grease. Not this time! It's been a lot of fun. However, I do plan to clean up the firewall, but I'm not sure if I'll just fill holes or replace it.

I am at the point when I need to pre-assemble everything to see what fits and what doesn't. I dropped the frame off the rotisserie and have began assembling all the parts. I am also in the process of cleaning up all the aluminum components, so I will just have to polish / clear coat / paint - however I decide to finish it.

I really hope to install a 5 or 6 speed in it very soon. The TH350 is in great shape, and was built by Al Heinke with all the cool hot-rod parts, but there is something really fun about shifting gears. I understand most people get tired of stick for their daily driver, but this is my toy. So I am beginning a list of needed parts, and there are LOTS of nickel and dime stuff that will be needed soon. But if I can wing it, top of the list is a T5 (or if I can find an affordable T56) and possibly a TPI system.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

thanks for such detailed account of the work you have done. It really is inspirational for us DIY guys. Now my '70 snb project doesn't seem so daunting. It's just time and money. :)

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Sorry for the delayed postings. I'm not sure where I left off.

I had been shopping around for the serpentine belt / power steering pump / AC compressor assembly. On my "wish list" was a TPI fuel injection assembly. Wow did I hit the jack pot! While searching for the front assembly, I found the entire 1989 5.0 HO IROC Camaro engine - the ENTIRE engine. The car had been sitting in someone's yard and they where parting it out. I purchased the ENTIRE engine for less than I could find just the power steering / belt assembly.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I know that I've probably gone a step too far sometimes, and there is a fine line between "trailer queen" and "fun driver" but I really hate cutting corners. So I took the die grinder to all the parts, shaved all the casting flaws off of almost everything I can find, and it really looks good. It is LOTS of work and takes LOTS of time, but I still believe it's worth it.

The plan is to assemble the entire truck, make all the cuts / welds / brackets necessary, and then take it back apart to paint it. For right now, I just plan to paint the aluminum pieces. My overall dream would be to chrome most of it, but I can't afford that and I don't want to spend the time polishing all that aluminum right now. Down the road it will be very easy to take pieces off and individually chrome or polish as necessary.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I hope I'm not breaking any rules, but I thought it may be pretty fun to post a few pics of my some of my peer-group's rides.

Roger Hogan is the pastor of a neighboring Free Will Baptist Church. He is a great guy, has been a great source of advice and counsel through the years, and he won the Goodguy's Truck of the Year last year! He had to place top in several of the major district car shows to qualify to enter the major one in Texas. He has the nicest truck I have every seen, a 55' Ford F100. This thing is like a Picoso - you can't really understand how breathtaking this truck is without seeing it in person. I know this is a Chevy Truck forum, so sorry for posting a pic of a Ford, but this is one cool ride. If you would like to see more pics of it, look at: http://www.rkmotorscharlotte.com/sal.../133293/190102

Next is another good friend's two AMAZING rides. The first is Ted Tenholder's Mustang. Sorry, I don't remember the year, I think it's a 69' - but I'm sure everyone else will definitely know. If I could have any car I wanted, this one would be on my top 5 list for sure. Secondly is his (70' or 71') Dodge Challenger RT. I believe there where only about 2000 true RTs made that year, and this is one of them - and it is PERFECT!!! Just like it rolled off the showroom floor. They do amazing and professional work. He and his buddy Clay are just finishing up the last few details, and I believe this thing is worth between $100,000 and $125,000. It has the 340 with 6 packs, 4 speed - this is basically a factory race car.

Again, I apologize if I broke any rules posting Ford and Chrysler pictures on a Chevy Truck website, but I thought it would be beneficial to show some of my network's cars.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

One last thing tonight. I wanted to run all the parts possible within the frame rails. I know many caution this, but if done right there is no problem. Roger Hogan's main advice was to either hide things or make them stand out. He has always given me great advice.

It took the majority of a full day's work and much time thinking, but I mounted the 2 residual valves back to back, and the proportioning valve behind. Getting the brake lines plumbed correctly, safely, and functionally was some work, but I think I got the job done!

If you are interested, the residual valves should be used when mounting the master cylinder low, like under the cab. You should run 2 psi for disc brakes, and 10 psi for drum brakes. This keeps the fluid from returning all into the master and then prevents a low brake pedal. The proportioning valve controls the delay of the rear brakes. 70% of the braking power is from the front brakes, and if not adjusted correctly the rear brakes won't do much or they will lock up too soon. I've seen lots of guys cut corners here, and I just don't feel that is wise. My proportioning valve also has a brake light switch in it. There are ups and downs to a pressure-controlled brake switch, but it will work well for my needs. The disadvantage is you must actually have brake line pressure to activate the lights, so tapping the pedal to knock off cruise isn't as easy. However, this way EVERYTHING is hidden and easy - no need for a complicated micro switch I have to mount somewhere and then repeatedly adjust. Pretty trick stuff.

It's a shame I don't have better pictures, and recent. I guess you can't ever take too many! I also have 2 DOT approved stainless brake hose that connect the pass-through connector in the boxing plate to the brake master. I'm still trying to figure out what thread / flare style a 93' Corvette brake master uses. I keep reading conflicting info, and I've ordered parts 3 times to no avail - but I guess practice makes perfect!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I've been hard at work, but I've really been slacking at updating this blog. Sorry. I aim to give more details, for the guys like me looking for info that's hard to find! If I miss anything, feel free to ask me what I did / how / or why.

The plan is to assemble and build everything, then take it back apart to paint it all. The cab is installed, hooking up the TPI to mock fit with all the accessories and linkages.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Every night (that I am able to) I work on the wire harness on my bedroom floor. This way I'm inside so my wife feels safe and the kids don't go crazy, but I am still able to get done some work done. I will find a way to post the Word Document of my notes for the harness. There are LOTS of great resources out there.

I disassembled the 87' Vette steering column. I modified the mount location so it would work better in the old truck. This was A LOT of work - definitely not a job to tackle for those who do not enjoy a challenge or have patience. However, if you have patience and enjoy a challenge, this is not too difficult of a job, just takes lots of time. The mechanical parts are in very good condition, but the grease had gotten old / dry from sitting in the donor car for unknown amount of years, so I was able to clean it up and put new grease in so this should hopefully last for many years to come.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I cut the old mount off, plugged the holes, cut if off so the hight and position would be where I desired on the old truck, and welded on. It took some figuring so the linkage would clear and not cause problems.

One advantage of the aftermarket columns is that most the external electronics / switches are hidden. I plan to design some sort of cover to go around the lower axle tube later that will hide much of this. Not sure how yet, but I'll tackle that when it comes. I see there are not pics of the lower plate I made, but I made a plate that was welded onto the base of the vette column that matches the original mount locations. I worked really well. I am very happy with the turnout. More pics to come.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Here is a picture of the TPI Harness schematic I modified to help me trace down wires, troubleshoot, and remember how I did it. Also, a GREAT resource for TPI wiring is at Hot Rod Handbooks. The website is:
http://www.hotrodhandbooks.com.au/eBooks/TPI/IX.html

Or the pdf. can be found at:
american-dreams-racing.com/files/TPI%20Handbook.pdf

Another great resource is this guy at ChevyThunder.com
http://chevythunder.com/since_its_inception_in_1985.htm

There are many more - too many to mention right now. Attached are my notes, so far... I had to convert from a .docx to a .rtf, so I apologize if something doesn't look right or is missing. I'll also try to update it when necessary.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

The wire harness is turning out very well. I set the entire harness on the engine, plugged in all the wires to sensors and aprox locations, then zip tied them together in a neat and straight manner with cheap little ties. Then I was able to set the harness on the floor and work on soldering wires at night when time allows. The harness starts at the front of the engine at the alt and AC compressor, then runs down the center of the manifold under the upper plenum. All the sensors, and wires plug into the 1 wire that runs to the back of then engine, down the transmission, and into the cab under the seat where the ECM, all the relays, and the fuse panel will all be located neatly and clean.

The steering column turned out very well also. The column drops about 1/2" below the bottom of the dash, and this appears to be perfect ergonomics for the seat / cluster / pedal locations. The column is tilt and telescopic, so it is adjustable in many ways to compensate for driver preference.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I took these pics before going home to visit my parents for Thanksgiving. Cont...

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

I ordered 1 single 3/4" DD steering u-joint (good up to 30 degree bend), and then I took the original upper steering joint and shaft off the 93' Vette door parts and modified the shaft to work. At first I was concerned that the aluminum would be too soft to be used in the DD joint, but as I began to cut and file the shaft, it was more difficult to cut than many steel components. I could not believe it! I cut the shaft, then filed in the 2 DD flats so they fit exact. It worked out very good, but I must admit I've never worked with "air craft aluminum" used on these Vettes, and this material is the lightest and toughest stuff I've ever seen. It is incredible. I plan to raise the carrier support bearing about 1/2 up. The current angle is 29-30 degrees, which is safe, but I have the room to raise it and drop the angle pitch enough that it may help with longevity and steering effort. I'm not positive, but it's worth the effort to be safe.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

This finishes up the progress up to Thanksgiving 12'. Looking back 1 year ago, at times it feels I should be done, but in other ways I am VERY pleased how much work has been accomplished, and the quality of work.

I am glad I took the time to do everything right, and held to the higher standard. There are definitely times I must intentionally resist the temptation to move too quickly. I encourage others to take their time and do it right - it's always worth it in the end.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Just out of curiosity, where did you bring the steering column through the firewall? Looking at it from the engine side it looks as if it comes through to the right of the stock location. Is the column centered in the gauges or off center. I have the same truck and I am trying to figure the best way for my column not to interfere with my frame mounted under cab brake pedal.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Sorry about the delay, friend! The column is directly in line with the original mount holes in the dash. I will take a few better pictures so you can see better how it looks, the way I made the brackets and modified the 87' Vette column, and exactly how and where it comes out - it comes out in a very similar location to the original one.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

wow, amazing work and really coming along! Nice attention to detail. Cool that you get to work with your boys as well.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Here are some better pics. Continued...

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Steering Column pictures continued. I considered starting a new thread on this. Should I have done that? Anyway...

The steering column is from a 87' Chevy Corvette, the year before air bags are introduced. It may have cost the same for me to run a aftermarket Iditit / ect column, but I wanted to remain with the Vette them as much as possible, and there is something cool about that flag emblem that the aftermarket companies could not give me. It is not complete, I still plan to build some sort of protective (or hiding) cover around the switch assembly, but I have not gotten to that point yet.

Previously, the ergonomics of this old truck was very awkward. The factory column was ok, but the correlation to the brake and accelerator pedals in different spots took the fun and ease out of driving it. Dad had the brake booster on the firewall, and this raised the pedal too far for it to be easily and comfortably depressed without double-footing it. The feel is much better now.

I don't have it all figured out yet, so if anyone has any ideas or experiences (or pictures / links) for me to consider, please send them my way.

A VERY helpful resource to easily find on the web is a little service manual that can be downloaded in a .pdf that gives detailed instruction in disassembly / repair / assembly of GM steering columns. I would post it, but it's too big for the forum's guidelines. It can be found by Googling Jazzman Steering Column Rebuild." If you can't find it, send me an email and I'll forward you a copy.

I hope I have answered any questions. Feel free to ask again if I need to clarify or add more details.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Hey ATVYP thanx for all the column pic!!!! I t sure helped me decide how I wanted to do mine. In fact I hope you don't mind I pretty much followed your lead. My biggest concern was it seemed like the brake pedal was going to hit my column. You can tell by my pics that its going to be reeaaal close. I guess I'm just going to move the booster back on the frame a little bit. Thanx again!!!!!!!!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...7/IMG_1911.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...IMG_1918-1.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...IMG_1913-1.jpg

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

WOW, i havent checked in in a while , looking GREAT !

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Are you using the factory cab mounts with the wood blocks etc, or something else?

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

We are not using the factory wood blocks for cab mounts. This is something that my dad figured out during the first build, and he did a great job. For the front pads Dad used a very thick piece of rubber that was cut in the same fashion as the original pad (but perhaps a little bigger), but it matches the thickness and general idea of the original deteriorated front. We are using a rubber mount with a thick washer used as a shim so the thickness matches the factory block thickness. This worked out very well, and looks good too. The rubber mounts look very similar to the radiator mounts used by several semi truck manufactures (like Freightliner and Kenworth), when the large radiators set on the two mounts with 1/2 bolts. I'm not sure the specific application Dad used, but that's what it looks like to me. I'm really pleased with how they appear, meaning it does not look hacked or cobbled together, and actually performs better than the factory wood blocks.

I have heard from many people that the trick polyurethane mounts may work well, but are notorious for endless squeaking and noise that consistently return, even after using some of the tips and tricks to keep that from happening. I personally really like the polyurethane, but I also know the body mounts are hidden (for the most part) and it would be a pain in the neck to re-lubricate them after a noise develops (or that fantom squeak from nowhere appears that we have all hunted down for months and sometimes just learned to live with...). I really like the way these rubber mounts look and work, and would feel comfortable advising others to use at their discretion.

If it will help, I'll try to take some pictures of them.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Great project and excellent pics. Do your side windows have frames or are they all glass? If they are all glass what did you use for regulators and bottom of window track? Thanks

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

Sorry about the late reply, friend. At this time the windows are all stock and run the stock metal frame. I have not taken them apart or looked too closely at them since Dad put it together 20 years ago, but I'm sure I will want to see your progress to get good ideas about what way I should go when that time comes!

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

It has been a difficult season of life the last few months, but amongst life and ministry’s events I was able finish some side work and collect a bunch of parts. If anyone needs help turning up a mid 90’s 12-valve Cummins with the P7100 Inline Bosch let me know because I can offer some great tips. Today I was able to start back doing some things.

I originally ordered a set of C4 stainless braided brake lines, but the front lines where about 4” too short. After measuring and re-measuring again I ordered 2 18” DOT approved brake lines from JEGS. There are many non-DOT approved brake lines available, but it was worth the peace of mind and a few bucks to order them. I’ve looked at 100s of pictures of other Flatout Engineering and other various IFS swaps, but I’m not always pleased with how the front lines are routed, and that balance between looks and safety. Some are just plain silly the way they are ran, but others just cosmetically look off or distracting. It was very important to me to run everything as hidden but accessible as possible, yet safe and practical. I believe I found the perfect balance, but time will tell. I drilled the front holes (I believe 5/8” holes) behind the cross member, and on the right side it is above but in line with my fuel bulkhead pass-through fittings. I split the difference between the back of the welded cross member and the frame recess. It appears to have proper clearance and length with the wheels turned either direction, with suspension compressed or free.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

As for the rear brake lines, the trick rear stainless braided factory-length lines will work well, so to help gain a little extra access inside the frame and to be able to check all the fittings occasionally, I drilled a hole in the inner boxing plate in front of the forward rear IRS cross member. This will allow me to access the lines and other items running inside the frame rail at the arch, but I will place a flat plate behind it and paint it black to cover the whole and help it continue the theme and remain practical. I also purchased all the weld nuts and stainless hardware to complete the bowtie boxing back plates (I have lots to do if I want to drive it by the end of the summer!)

After much research and personal debate, I decided to purchase the “Tanks Inc” in-tank fuel pump. It is the mid-level electric fuel pump that mounts inside the fuel tank, uses a stock-style replaceable Wabash fuel pump, and uses the engine’s fuel pressure regulator – and it will work with both my TPI and the LS fuel injection, if I ever decide to upgrade. This pump will look much cleaner hidden inside the tank than all the necessary parts that would mount externally, and I keep reading they run cooler and last longer mounted in the tank. The pump assembly has a special tray that keeps the fuel pump from starving, instead of using the special baffled fuel tank. I will keep you posted on how it goes.

Re: Uncle Howard's 1946 Chevy Truck
 

After thinking, chewing, reading, sleeping for a loooooong time, I finally dived into the bed latch mechanism. I used the bear claw universal latch assembly, enlarged the front bed bolt hole a bit, then took the latch apart and cut the top centering cone off. I believe it is really going to work perfect. I plan to weld the centering cone onto the frame so there are no bolt heads / fastener hardware to look unsightly. I’m not sure how I will re-assemble the latch under the frame rail yet, but it is going really well. The little things will work out now that the big things have been figured out. I purchased 2 universal door solenoids from Speedway, and they will mount inside the frame rail to actuate the latch with a button under the seat or dash. I hope to get back out later and get more done.