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What's next on the to do list?
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Everything looks great. You've done real good.
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anybody know if this thing in the door/window scissor track is round or oval, should it slide or rotate like a wheel, mine doesn't
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and the other side, done
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How did the new clutch feel? Should be easier on the leg.
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Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"? Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans... |
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Do you know how to adjust the clutch pedal height so I don't knee myself in the jaw every time I try to change gears? LOL, or is it not possible because of the set height vertical push rod? |
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Nice work, Gregski - it's always fun to watch someone work fast and do it right!
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Good job on everything!
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Nice update. This kind of progress is contagious.
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If you crank the window all the way up, there's enough room to get the stuff in through the large opening and affix it to the outside door skin. |
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By the way, do you have compressed air? |
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found the contact spot on that fly wheel inspection dust cover, one swift love tap with the 3 lbs sledge and she rubbed no more
last pic is what it was rubbing against, the end of the crank shaft which is not exactly round but that weird shape |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Speedometer Cable
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before putting the turtle shell back on the transmission tunnel I decided I should replace the speedometer cable since the end that screws on to the transmission had stripped threads
I think you do not have to even remove the speedometer from the gauge cluster to do it, you can just reach around the back and snap the cable out but I forgot so I removed the speedo, it was easier since I don't have a dash pad on at the moment in addition to unsapping the cable from the speedometer and unscrewing the other end from the transmission, there are two clip brackets that need unboltnig one has a larger bolt than the other, one is in the engine bay, the other under the driver's floor |
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Make sure to bench bleed it when you get a new one. |
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couple minutes finagling that larger bolt bracket in the engine bay and the old speedo cable was out
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BTW, if that Lubriplate has shown up, it's a great choice for the speedo cable lube. |
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please inspect your parts before you take them home from the parts house
here is the new cable I got from The AutoZone, the $6 dollar price tag should have been the first Red Flag you ever heard that expression it's like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, well how about a round peg in a square hole I recon this special order cable got fandangled in shipping |
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here's how the new cable compares to the old
that red protective cap sure did a lot of good didn't it |
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well after an hour or so (that I will never get back) I tapped the fitting into submission using a 10 mm socket and got the cable installed, and the speedo works, but since the gauge is bulging out a bit in the middle I recon the cable needs to go in about 1/6h of an inch more but it can't so I think I will be getting another one from The NAPA Auto Parts store tomorrow
ah the joys of aftermarket quality parts |
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I feel bad about that, since I recommended it. I have never had that kind of delay from that supplier.
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The little one in the front and the big one in the back is for "1974-75 C-3 (JB8 w/P.S.) (292) HYDRA-BOOSTER PUMP" among other things. The one with equal reservoirs is for "1973-78 CG-1, BLAZER, JIMMEY (JB-3) SINGLE DIAPHRAGM VACUUM CYLINDER (MORAINE)" and "1973-78 CKGP-1, 2, 3, BLAZER, JIMMY (JB-5, JB-6, JB-7) TANDEM DIAPHRAGM VACUUM CYLINDER (MORAINE)" The one with the big one in the front and the little one in the back is for "1973-78 C-1 BLAZER (C), JIMMY (C) w/JB-1, JB-3 BENDIX MASTER AND VACUUM CYLINDER" Some notes. C means 2WD. K is 4wd. G and P are vans I think. 1, 2, 3 means 10, 20, 30. So "CKGP-1, 2, 3" means C-10, C-20, C-30, K-10, K-20, .... JB1, JB3, JB5 are RPO codes for power brakes and should be called out on the glovebox sheet. My 1978 K-10 calls out Z84 Cheyenne Equipment, but doesn't say which PB code it contained. Probably JB5, JB6 or JB7, which went by GVW. You probably have JB5. Got all that? Given all that, I just went out and looked at mine, and it's big one in the front and small one in the back, so go figure. Which kind of makes sense. Drum brakes take a lot more fluid movement than disks, which hardly move at all. So if the front reservoir is for the rear brakes, I would expect the front one to be larger on a disk/drum setup. |
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Looking deeper, I can nail it down exactly if you tell me the GVWR on the door sticker. Add the front and rear axle ratings, I just need the total.
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Here is a writeup I found elsewhere that really brakes down a lot of the common brake setups.
http://goo.gl/m0Zh1I |
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Yeah, my truck should have a JB5 setup, but when the garage replaced the original master cylinder because the cup was age-hardened and passing fluid (pedal would slowly sink to the floor as you held it), they put the big, honkin' JB7 master cylinder on it, which is fine. Going to a LESSER duty part would NOT be good.
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P = Forward control chassis 1,2,3 = Chev 10,20,30 GMC 15,25,35 JB1 = manual (no power) JB3 = light duty Vacuum 1/2t JB5 = heavy duty Vacuum 1/2t this is standard with a V8 and A/C and certain other packages JB6 = Vacuum light duty 3/4t up JB7 = Vacuum heavy Duty 3/4t up JB8 = Hydraulic booster 3/4t up |
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