Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What kind of sound deadening did you use?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Greg should we talk or are you just going to read my mind directly, LOL, jk

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What's next on the to do list?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Everything looks great. You've done real good.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

anybody know if this thing in the door/window scissor track is round or oval, should it slide or rotate like a wheel, mine doesn't

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and the other side, done

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

How did the new clutch feel? Should be easier on the leg.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks LSX I appreciate that.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thank you Jake, I got lots of help on this forum.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thank you, couldn't have done it without all you guys, the encouragement and the know how you shared and continue to teach me, much appreciated.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

You know what Jake, it doesn't feel that much different, but maybe I got something too tight in there, I will crawl under it one more time tonight and adjust it according to the manual.

Do you know how to adjust the clutch pedal height so I don't knee myself in the jaw every time I try to change gears? LOL, or is it not possible because of the set height vertical push rod?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Oops.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Opps I guess you need to check those wheel cylinders now. ;) by the way enjoying your thread and watching all the good work. Do you want to come clean and paint parts for me? hehehe :lol:

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

They are called rollers and yes they should turn. but seldom do after all these years. At least there should be a good coating of grease on the track and roller. That is a good place to make use of that lubriplate. I myself just use white grease.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Nice work, Gregski - it's always fun to watch someone work fast and do it right!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Good job on everything!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Nice update. This kind of progress is contagious.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Rich, I used Hushmat in the doors, primarily because that's what my local shop had. I also did the firewall and back of the cab. I was surprised by how much effect the back of the cab had. I had figured that "there's this thick seat in front of it, how much could it do?".

If you crank the window all the way up, there's enough room to get the stuff in through the large opening and affix it to the outside door skin.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

It is round and it should rotate around the axle.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Greg, the reservoir area that is empty is for the *rear* brakes. It might be worth checking the hydraulic line running to the back, because screwing around with that transmission crossmember may have caused the leak. If it's not there, look at the flex line connected to the axle, and finally the wheel cylinders.

By the way, do you have compressed air?

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Thanks Greg, I want to let you know that prior to the repair from time to time I would notice the master brake cylinder itself looked wet like this, does this tell us anything? I thought it was leaking from the lid cause maybe it was too full, but it was not over full.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

found the contact spot on that fly wheel inspection dust cover, one swift love tap with the 3 lbs sledge and she rubbed no more

last pic is what it was rubbing against, the end of the crank shaft which is not exactly round but that weird shape

Re: Restoring Rusty - Speedometer Cable
 

before putting the turtle shell back on the transmission tunnel I decided I should replace the speedometer cable since the end that screws on to the transmission had stripped threads

I think you do not have to even remove the speedometer from the gauge cluster to do it, you can just reach around the back and snap the cable out but I forgot so I removed the speedo, it was easier since I don't have a dash pad on at the moment

in addition to unsapping the cable from the speedometer and unscrewing the other end from the transmission, there are two clip brackets that need unboltnig one has a larger bolt than the other, one is in the engine bay, the other under the driver's floor

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Looks like you need a new master cylinder. My '85 was leaking like that when I got it. It was the seal on the vac booster side of the MC.

Make sure to bench bleed it when you get a new one.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

couple minutes finagling that larger bolt bracket in the engine bay and the old speedo cable was out

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

One of the things we need to realize when working on these older vehicles is that rubber shrinks and hardens as it ages. Lots of things that isn't so good for, like water pumps, rear engine seals, master and slave cylinders, etc. You can add seal conditioner to engines, transmissions, and power steering systems. If you use the right one ( Amazon.com: ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8...), it will add the missing volatiles back to the rubber and help a lot. But you can't use it in brake systems.

BTW, if that Lubriplate has shown up, it's a great choice for the speedo cable lube.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

here's how the new cable compares to the old

that red protective cap sure did a lot of good didn't it

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

well after an hour or so (that I will never get back) I tapped the fitting into submission using a 10 mm socket and got the cable installed, and the speedo works, but since the gauge is bulging out a bit in the middle I recon the cable needs to go in about 1/6h of an inch more but it can't so I think I will be getting another one from The NAPA Auto Parts store tomorrow

ah the joys of aftermarket quality parts

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

not yet, it was last seen here

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I feel bad about that, since I recommended it. I have never had that kind of delay from that supplier.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yup, looks like a project for this weekend. By the way how come this power one from AutoZone looks opposite from mine, on mine the smaller chamber is in the front and on this one it is in the back, my old one looks like the ones for manual brakes, could the P.O. have used the wrong cylinder?!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

No worries bro, you have helped me so much, this time frame is a first for me too.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

OK, this one took a while with the parts book. It turns out that it depends.

The little one in the front and the big one in the back is for "1974-75 C-3 (JB8 w/P.S.) (292) HYDRA-BOOSTER PUMP" among other things.

The one with equal reservoirs is for "1973-78 CG-1, BLAZER, JIMMEY (JB-3) SINGLE DIAPHRAGM VACUUM CYLINDER (MORAINE)" and "1973-78 CKGP-1, 2, 3, BLAZER, JIMMY (JB-5, JB-6, JB-7) TANDEM DIAPHRAGM VACUUM CYLINDER (MORAINE)"

The one with the big one in the front and the little one in the back is for "1973-78 C-1 BLAZER (C), JIMMY (C) w/JB-1, JB-3 BENDIX MASTER AND VACUUM CYLINDER"

Some notes. C means 2WD. K is 4wd. G and P are vans I think. 1, 2, 3 means 10, 20, 30. So "CKGP-1, 2, 3" means C-10, C-20, C-30, K-10, K-20, .... JB1, JB3, JB5 are RPO codes for power brakes and should be called out on the glovebox sheet. My 1978 K-10 calls out Z84 Cheyenne Equipment, but doesn't say which PB code it contained. Probably JB5, JB6 or JB7, which went by GVW. You probably have JB5.

Got all that?

Given all that, I just went out and looked at mine, and it's big one in the front and small one in the back, so go figure.

Which kind of makes sense. Drum brakes take a lot more fluid movement than disks, which hardly move at all. So if the front reservoir is for the rear brakes, I would expect the front one to be larger on a disk/drum setup.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Looking deeper, I can nail it down exactly if you tell me the GVWR on the door sticker. Add the front and rear axle ratings, I just need the total.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Here is a writeup I found elsewhere that really brakes down a lot of the common brake setups.

http://goo.gl/m0Zh1I

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yeah, my truck should have a JB5 setup, but when the garage replaced the original master cylinder because the cup was age-hardened and passing fluid (pedal would slowly sink to the floor as you held it), they put the big, honkin' JB7 master cylinder on it, which is fine. Going to a LESSER duty part would NOT be good.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Oh, and note that both of those pictured have the big reservoir in the front.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

G = Standard Vans
P = Forward control chassis
1,2,3 = Chev 10,20,30 GMC 15,25,35
JB1 = manual (no power)
JB3 = light duty Vacuum 1/2t
JB5 = heavy duty Vacuum 1/2t this is standard with a V8 and A/C and certain other packages
JB6 = Vacuum light duty 3/4t up
JB7 = Vacuum heavy Duty 3/4t up
JB8 = Hydraulic booster 3/4t up