Re: Restoring Rusty
 

then it was time to get creative with not one but two pullers co-mingled together to make a super puller to git that stubborn drum off

now when you do this, be careful you don't have to twist like you re raising the Titanic, just put some pressure on the puller and tap the drum with yer hammer, she will pop and eventually let go

a bit of lubrication don't hurt none either

the bigger 3 arm puller is an 8" from Harbor Freight, costs about $18 bucks, it has some extensions from a smaller 2 arm puller not shown

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so here is that driver side rear brake EXPOSED, what were you trying to hide Rusty? Hmmm

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A small warning about painting the booster. In no time the paint will be off it in areas due to the normal brake fluid seepage. That is why they were never painted. You might try something epoxy based.

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alright while the paint on that power booster is drying lets take a look at the new replacement master cylinder

bigger front disk brake chamber in the front the way it was meant to be on the new one

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Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo~!

This dude has a black one: Engine compartment transformed in 12 days

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The vent in the filler neck is to allow air to get around the inrush of gasoline from the pump. This does not vent the tank, because it is connected to the filler neck below the cap, not to the outside.

The vent to the evap canister should be venting your tank. I am surprised though that you have no return line from the fuel pump. I have supply line and return line, but no vent line.

You should do the check I mentioned above. Drive it till it dies, then open the gas cap and see if there is a vacuum in the tank. This will cause fuel starvation as you are apparently experiencing. If there is vacuum in the tank, you need to figure out why the vent line through the evap canister is not working.

If there is vacuum in the tank, the short term fix to make it drivable while you work out the problem is to drill the gas cap. If you are subject to CA emissions, that will need to be replaced before your next check. Otherwise you may just treat it as a permanent fix.

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That looks like the same one that has been on mine the last four years. The older one was smaller, as your older one is, but I don't recall which order the two reservoirs were in.

Oh, and I painted my master cylinder black with Rustoleum Gloss Black three years ago after the bare metal unit started to show surface rust within a year. Paint condition is still fine despite the inevitable spills when topping off.

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Humm maybe that's the secret, Rustoleum. I just don't have the patients to wait days for that stuff to dry. Unfortunately my vehicle has to run. It can't sit around torn down for days, weeks, months. I generally plan my work out for 1 1/4 days on the weekend. if the job takes more than that I have to plan vacation time to cover completing the job.

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When I got to the gas station when it stalled out on me, I did open the gas cap and there was no sucking sound. So I did this test without even know it.

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Mine's a daily driver, too. I just brush-painted it in place and let it dry on its own time. Done.

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Not venting then. Huh.

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So where are the rear brakes leaking from?

About painting master cylinders, I don't have much luck. The fluid eventually takes the paint off. I've even thought about starting over with new everything so I can switch to DOT5, which is silicone based and doesn't eat paint.

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cleaned the drums and this might have been an even dumber idea than painting the power booster, here is one side before it flash rusted

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and here is the other side, not even 10 minutes later, I did spray em with WD40 to keep the rust at bay but they didn't stand a chance

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and side by side before the second drum flash rusted

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Eventually that is the direction I will go. Right now my brake system works perfectly.

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I have see-through wheels, so I painted the outside of the drums.

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I did not see any in black but i will look again

The new air cleaner looks good by the way

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Powder coated my drums. Done!

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prepped the fire wall a little bit before mounting the brake booster back on

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so after allowing the paint to dry for a few days it was time to start putting the power booster back on

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then the new master cylinder

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Gravity bleed them :P Or get a one man bleeder that works off a vacuum pump.

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There is a number of ways to bleed the brakes by yourself, I like to use them Speed Bleeder fittings. So I take one out from the rear wheel of my truck and head out to the parts house

Looks like I need the 5/16th -24 fittings - got it.

Hit NAPA - all they got is the 3/8th - 24 ones

Hit Pep Boyz - they don't got any

Hit O'Reilly's - they only go the 3/8th - 24 ones

Finally find a set at AutoZone, cool got it

Come home, screw the first fitting in, swing around to the other side to screw in the other, what the heck, this one is the 3/8ths one, come to the front of the truck these are 3/8ths ones as well

What the heck the only 5/16ths fitting on my truck is that first wheel I tried ~ UNBELIEVABLE!

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so back to the parts house to get more [different] fittings

Fun Fact: the smaller 5/16ths fittings are $14 bucks the larger 3/8ths ones $10

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Always a challenge it seems. Good story!

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also got a chance to paint the tailgate this weekend, and learned you can't walk in to a auto paint supply house and ask them for paint in different sheens, like you do at the Home Depot

Apparently they can't put a flat finish in a rattle can, so it's hard to match your 40 year old paint that has faded over the years, so here's what $50 bucks worth of best match paint and a prayer will do

prepped, and then a shot after each coat

(yes the trick is to put the final coat upside down - now you know how the amateurs do it)

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here's how it turned out - I can live with it... IT"S A TRUCK !!!

whacha all think, not bad for a lawn paint job?

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Of course, now you know you're going to want to do the rest of the truck!

Looks good!

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Looks pretty good!

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Looking great there Gregski. I would not mind driving that around as a daily driver myself.

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Tailgate looks great, Greg. Brakes look good, do they work good?

After years of bleeding brakes with a helper, I broke down and bought a vacuum bleeder that works off compressed air. I'm never going back. This thing bleeds each wheel cylinder in about 30 seconds and you can do everything by yourself.

What about a rear bumper for Rusty?

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Yes they work, I'm glad. One less thing to worry about.

Going with a roll pan, the one with the license plate cut out, like this

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Back to your fuel delivery issue. The holley you have has a site plug on the passenger side of the fuel bowl. If you think your starving for fuel pull the plug and see if your bowl is filling up.

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Don't do roll pan. Get a nice sport chrome bumper will look so much better.

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You're getting there.

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I think a black step bumper would look good back there with that olive green color. Never have liked roll pans for some reason though so I am a bit biased.
Really enjoying reading all of this man and I am impressed with your eye for detail. Keep it up man....before too long you will have to change the name to the truck formerly known as Rusty.

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Thanks for the tip I will have to look for that.

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