Re: Restoring Rusty
 

and the belly of the bellhousing...

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

ordered some parts for the clutch linkage,

needed a fork return spring (mine was broken) and yes there are two there a long and a short one, my long was was broken

got a new rubber boot for the fork

and a Z-bar rebuild kit, ie plastic bushings that hide inside there, mine was missing the one on the side of the bell housing - no bueno

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

clutch fork boot, old and new one side by side

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so finally after six months figured out what this mistery "exhaust pipe" LOL spring was

it's actually a bellcrank ie Z-bar spring, two attach to it one short one and one long one, one side was already broken, and it was so brittle I broke off the other end trying to remove it off the frame rail

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I see whats next for your truck Gregski ;) Those front shocks look like the OEM shocks that have been in place since that truck went down the assembly line.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Yup, that is definitely on the list, the plan is to lower the truck at the same time

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Nice work Gregski, love watching the progress of the truck. Makes me want to get out and work on mine, come on spring!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I swear it looks like you use a sandblaster on those parts. Too darn clean.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Man, I wish.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

cleaned up the fork and painted it, being careful not to paint the tin clip in which the bearing spins

not my best cleaning job, but it will do fer gobermint work

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

also avoided getting paint in the ditch where the ball joint fulcrums

Re: Restoring Rusty - Z-bar
 

next up to get cleaned up and a coat of paint was the beelcrank aka the Z-bar

I was careful not to get any paint inside the hollow tube, nor on the grease fitting

Re: Restoring Rusty - Z-bar
 

Good job!

Re: Restoring Rusty - Z-bar
 

Thank you, I'm trying but right now it's like sinking in quick sand on this job, though I am learnin'

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

so this Z-bar, well that's more than just a hollow pipe I tell you, there's quite a bit of engineering that goes into this rascal, literally

doing a clutch job where you replace the fly wheel, pilot bushing, clutch plate, clutch pressure plate housing, and throwout bearing, and not going the extra mile to take care of the 40 year old linkage is like quitting a marathon on mile 25

so when I peaked inside my Z-bar formerly the bar known as the bellcrank, I noticed right away it was missing a plastic bushing on the clutch side (white piece second from the left in the picture was missing originally) metal on metal didn't make for the smoothest of actions, it actually wore a groove in the pipe (I might could replace the entire Z-bar, we'll see), add to that dried up grease, dust, and rust, and kiss your smooth action good bye, so... I went out and bought some replacement plastic bushings and these silly felt gaskets, third piece from the right (pretty worthless universal junk)

so here is my attempt at breaking down it's anatomy (pretty much all there except I am missing what I call a star washer in front of the bolt on the far right, space left open)

Re: Restoring Rusty - Clutch Pedal Disassembly
 

Re: Restoring Rusty - Brake Pedal Disassembly
 

well as luck would have it you can't take out Mrs. Clutch Pedal without hearing it from her neighbor Mr. Brake Pedal, after all it's like they're joined at the hip, they share the same long bolt which they pivot on, you want clutch pedal, you get clutch and brake pedal FREE of charge, LOL

so here's the anatomy of the brake pedal, pretty much same prognosis, we need new plastic bushings and a lots of cleaning

Question for anybody reading: What do we use to lube up the metal pivot sleeve and them bushings, what type of grease?

Re: Restoring Rusty - Brake Pedal Disassembly
 

Lubriplate lithium grease. Stable over a very broad temperature so you don't have the clutch and brakes work differently when it's cold versus when it's hot. Excellent for metal on metal, metal on plastic/nylon bushings, roller bearings, etc.

http://www.skygeek.com/lubriplate-63...4-oz-tube.html

Re: Restoring Rusty - Brake Pedal Disassembly
 

Rich, thank you so much, not only do you take the time to help but you include links to get to the item you describe, how awesome is that.

My turn....

http://i.istockimg.com/file_thumbvie...er-bottles.jpg

Re: Restoring Rusty - Brake Pedal Disassembly
 

How about this one from Home Depot Rich, so I don't have to wait on the shipping? Will this work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lucas-Oil...0533/202535870

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

That should work. Lubriplate is the brand I have the most faith in, but white lithium grease is what you want.

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Me too , their "Aeroplate" is the only grease ,( beside Genie's over-priced grease ), that'll work in cold weather to grease a screw-drive garage door operator rail/screw and not drag the noisy p.o.s. down ! (I had to find out the hard way )

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

Looking great. You do go all the way out!

Re: Restoring Rusty
 

I agree with Rich that the lithium grease is the stuff to use. But how far wrong can you really go? Any grease is going to be better then the dry fittings you currently have.