Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Rather refreshing to know that I have been able to provide an idea rather than shamelessly 'borrow' those from others.

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well it was a great idea! and I did it, see below for updated photos.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so on the idea from Paul Y and others, I finished the install of the Fuel and return lines. See pics and found a suitable location for the Pressure Reg.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

More...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Note, the Red and Blue tape is there for me to know which is which... it will be removed.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok now onto pics of CaptainFabs Hydra Brake Booster and Hydraulic Clutch Mount and associated parts. I have the main bracket mounted, just need to Drill the hole out (find the center before... should be fun) then test fit. Then start the brake line routes.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

HELP !!!

Ok, as you can imagine.. I have ALOT of parts and well I am trying to get them all set and laid out and well TADA I found two that I am lost as to where the go! Help please!!

I was getting all my brake pedal stuff setout, and ready to assemble with new bushings and all ....

Don't laugh to hard at me... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I think those are both steering column related - I think the elbow shaped one goes on the inner fender and the other one goes in side the cabin where the column goes through.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

60short is correct on the location of those two panels.

The updated pics are looking good!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I love your build, it looks great. The parts have already been identified.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I really appreciate the comments back!! I feel so much better now... lol I was thinking I was going crazy...

For those of you just reading things on the site and thinking of joining, THIS is a perfect example of why you should! There are many on here that are so willing to help and pass along the knowledge and experience.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you Sir! I appreciate the positive feedback! Ill try to keep them coming...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you, I appreciate that! Thank you for also verifying the parts. It is getting exciting for me again. Not that it was not before, just getting to see things together is great, even though I just have to uninstall and then reinstall after paint. lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

It's been a while since I've checked in. You're coming along great and your work is awesome. Keep it up.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Great to hear from you again! Hope all is well with you. It is nice to be back at it again.
Now I am working with the Hydro boost system I bought and making it work with CaptainFab's great Hydro boost and Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder setup. His stuff is just amazing and now I am working with him to make it work right. The issue is with the mounting plate that came with the CPP Beast Hydro Boost. This plate is for universal and has only two holes on it BUT a bunch of dimples that appear to be possible to be drilled holes, and 4 of those line up to CaptainFab's mount, BUT I need to remove that damn Hydro boost nut, so just to make it easy, I ordered CaptainFab's. Then I will look at what way is best to mount it. All this just to figure out how to route my damn brake lines and Hydraulic lines for the Rack-n-Pinion, Power steering pump and Hydro boost. just one more step... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so I have some update pics.
(CaptainFab if please feel free to use any of the pics or info as you wish sir, great damn product!!)

Here are some pics of the Clutch and Brake pedals installed (fully re-built and powder coated) along with CaptainFab's hydro-boost and Clutch Slave Cylinder kit (stuff is amazing that he sells).

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

a few more

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

For the Hydro-Boost I ordered the universal kit from CPP - Beast Kit - With that said, here is a warning... the mount as you can see has 2 holes only, BUT it has dimples in area that perfectly line up with the holes in CaptainFab's mount (which I highly suggest you get, not just because it is a great piece, but because he has taking the painstaking time to develop it to work correctly with these trucks). So, that fact they have dimples tells me that they are there for drilling out what holes you need to mount it. Now that is all great and dandy... except for 1 small issue ..... HOW DO YOU GET THAT DAMN SPECIAL NUT OFF!! Well again, Thank you to CaptainFab, he sells a custom made socket to do this. So, just a heads up, if you go Hydro-Boost, either CCP's, or anyone elses, you may need to get this special nut socket. Anyways, mine is on the way... lol I need to get it mounted so i can start the fun time of running all my brake lines.

With that said, Question time. I have been looking at other brake line installations and some install a residual pressure valve for each line (1 to front and 1 to rear). In my case I am running all Disc brakes, so a 2lb valve. Are these necessary for this installation? I always believed that if the master cylinder is above the brakes, then these are not necessary. I have bought a set of them and plan to install. If anything, it is a great way to to disconnect the whole brake unit without removing the lines from the block, a disconnection point if you will. Yes I do understand it is another place for leaks, if they are not necessary then I just like the idea of a disconnection point. But back to the question, are they needed?

Next question... On the distribution block there are two outs for the front brakes, one for each (left and right) and then one for the rear. So, install one line for each of the fronts from the distribution block that is just under the master cylinder OR run just one and then install a splitter in the line down by the frame and then run separate lines to the front brakes? - And if best to run a separate line to each front, install a residual pressure valve for each and the one for the rear?

Thank you to all of you in advance that take the time to respond!!!
God Bless.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

pics....

If you look at the Hydro-boost plate you will see the dimples and you will see I have highlighted 4 in Silver, these are the ones that line up to Captainfab's mount.
Last two pics are the brake pedals all done and insalled.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Clutch pedal pivot set-up does look very nice. Should be zero issues w/angles causing wear/problems.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

The deflection to reduce the force is a great product.
I also thought about it when converting the Mustang to hydraulic clutch actuation for the BorgWarner T5.
I love clever things like this and your clean structure, great.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Lovely work Jeff.

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir. I appreciate your comments!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir... just trying to catch up to your build!! LOL I am a bit behind you though!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so I got the Nut for the Hydro boost from CaptainFab and it work flawlessly, just as I expected. I got the C-Clip off, then the nut, removed the spacer and test fit the correct dimples to drill out, and the ones I highlighted in silver are perfect. I drilled them out with my drill press, test fit it again to CaptainFabs bracket and it was a perfect match. So then I install the plate back onto the Hydro boost, replace the clip and test mount the entire system. It was a perfect match. The only kicker here now is the distance to the brake pedal mount is further than than the pieces they send with the kit, and go try to find a damn 3/8" all thread rod with Fine threads!!! Hint, locally hardware stores do not have any! The reality is that the only thing they have that is over 1" long are the hollow all thread for hanging lights, the gold hollow all thread! Ys not using that... so i found a 12" piece of all thread for just over 2 dollars at Granger supply. ANYWAYS... lol I just want it to fit and look right. Getting this 12" all thread will allow me to reach the hole in the pedal. I will have it adjusted to be just off the rubber bumpers.
I have the clutch pedal the same way and it is done already. I have pics coming of this.