Re: Restoring Rusty - Cross Member Support Brackets
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I took my time, since my arms were going numb from lack of blood flow as I was laying on my back with my arms up in the air (like you just don't care... oops) tightening them cross member support brackets
I tightened these to: as hard as you can plus a quarter turn, LOL |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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and here's a parting shot for the night, The Greg is pooped!
~ man I wish I could have taken that cross member out so I could paint it ~ deep breath Greg deep breath |
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by the way - I left those lower supports out on my C&C box truck .., bet it wouldn't make a diff for you .. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Y U NO paint crossmember? Just kidding. :lol:
Great work, Greg, getting that transmission back in. Told you it wasn't easy. I did something similar, with the lift from above over the tranny tunnel. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Paint and then Dynamat the interior floor before you put everything back together.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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so what do we feed The Dragon? According to the Owner's and Driver's MANUAL (yes I got one, and yes on occasion I read it) we are supposed to use SAE 80 or SAE 90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant
now you all know that me and Chemistry don't get along, so I went out to my local AutoZone and they didn't have any 90 stuff they only had combo ones so I bought this Vaseline (jk) 80W-90 "High Perfomance" Gear Oil, will that work? Now I realize I will need more than one quart, I think I originally bought this stuff for the diff, so I will have to git more, unless you say go somewhere else and git the straight up 90 only es aye yee stuff |
Re: Restoring Rusty
According to the Valvoline website you can use that gear lube in manual transmissions and it is API GL5 rated so I would use it.
"All hypoid differentials (conventional and limited slip) and manual transmissions in passenger cars, light trucks, sport utility vehicles, vans and heavy-duty trucks where an API-GL5 or MT-1 fluid is specified." Great thread. Your documentation is helping me a lot. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
80W90 just means it acts like 80 when it's cold and 90 when it's hot. The factory spec of 80 or 90 basically means use 80 in Minnesota and 90 in Miami. Running the 80W90 you can get 90-weight performance in the summer and it will act like 80 in the winter so it isn't so hard to shift when it's cold.
In Sac, I would say to use 90 if you were using straight weight, but 80W90 is better. |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Thanks Rich.
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Every thing looks great.
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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prepped and painted the shift stick
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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prepped and painted the shifter boot retainer thing, can someone tell me which side is up on this thing, the previous owner had the dish side up, I prefer the smooth side up
cleaned it up using the good 'ol wire wheel, man if I had a sand blasting cabinet I would be dangerous |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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here it is painted, pics are a bit crudy (indoors in the garage at night)
gonna order a new rubber boot from LMC Truck tomorrow (pay day!) |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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then got going on the rest of the drive train assembly
this bracket which holds up the middle of the two piece drive shaft has a front and a rear (I recon) the front is shorter then is swoops down in the rear (I hope) |
Re: Restoring Rusty
The dished side of the screw holes goes up.
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Universal Joints
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then it was time to replace the universal joints aka the U-joints
things began innocently enough went to AutoZone and picked up three universal joints, first lesson I learned was that they were not all created equally, I was giver one for the front that was different from the other two a bit larger (apparently the middle and rear ones are the same a bit smaller) "MUST BE LUBRICATED AFTER INSTALLATION" we'll get to that later |
Re: Restoring Rusty - U-joint Removal
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poor mans' press
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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out with the old and in with the new
now tapping the old U-joints out we don't care too much about 'em as they will be tossed however when gently tapping in the new ones, you really shouldn't do it, I recon you should use a press to press them in this was the first time I replaced u-joints so I didn't really know what I was in for - I had to take both caps off to get the thing in and then tap the caps back on Not Fun! |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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ok, I remember doing the rear u-joint first then I did the front one, so I don't recall when this happened, if it happened on the first one or the second but both things happened to the same u-joint
so after I had this u-joint in I went to put in the retaining clips and I put one side in but I could not scootch the joint over far enough to put the second one in so I thought I bet I know what happened, probably one of the needle bearings laid down while I was tapping the cap in, and sure enuff but after I fixed that side I still couldn't put the second clip in, so low and behold I check the other side, still same u-joint minds you and I had two needles down in this one moral of the story, don't force the issue, take your time, re trace your steps I'm just being honest with you, it's not like it's all roses over here at the Busted Knuckles Garage 24/7 |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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when I bought these joints I specifically asked the AutoZoner if I would have to lube them up, he said no, just install them, but they do come with the grease fitting and the ability to lube them up later
so I was not too happy to see that sign that said "MUST BE LUBRICATED AFTER INSTALLATION" I went to reach for my grease gun and it felt a bit light, someone removed the grease tube, it was empty... grrrr so I ghetto lubed one up by removing the lube nipple and packing it with bearing grease then I went to lube the other one and it was full of grease, what the heck, did they forget to lube the first? I thought |
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