Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Love the build man - it's really coming along nicely!!! Keep the pics coming!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Nice I cant wait for the pictures! It looks like more than 4"s doesn't it?
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Thanks for the comments, guys. I'm trying to keep this thread in order, but I'm jumping back and forth between stages, and I don't want to throw up pictures just for the sake of throwing them up. Once I finish the brake system I will do the ball joints/bearings/lockout hubs, and then the lift.
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
We'll be here..lol
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Okay, so life happens and my plans have been juggled some. I was hoping to work on this thing one stage at a time, but I've been hopping around. I am currently in between painting the frame/re-doing the entire brake system/replacing ball joints (which I finished a couple of weeks ago)/and rebuilding my factory hubs. I have way too many photos to go through so I've decided to just start posting whatever I can with some descriptions.
I am doing all of this in my driveway with no special tools or presses. You can do this at home with a little extra elbow grease. You do not have to pay a shop to remove the ball joints or press them in. I ordered my ball joints from Rockauto.com. I saved over $50 by buying them online over the local parts stores. Rockauto.com is awesome. 3-4 day shipping and priced just right. I also got the spanner nut socket from them. I used all Moog parts. |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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I began the ball joint replacement process by removing the wheel hubs. I discovered both Spicer plastic knobs were damaged. One was broken, the other was cracked. I was also missing both gaskets on them--the paper one between the outer part of the hub housing and chrome piece, and the metal gasket between the inner part of the hub housing and the hub/rotor assembly.
A few of the allen head bolts and washers were also missing. |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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After removing the hubs/lockouts you can see the nuts and washers which must be removed with the spindle nut socket that you can find at one of the parts stores. You will then see the outer bearing.
Attachment 751256 Attachment 751255 Attachment 751257 Then I removed the caliper assembly. I had already disconnected the brake lines. I am replacing them with Offroad Design's extended stainless steel kevlar reinforced lines. The pads were shot as were both rotors... Attachment 751258 Attachment 751259 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Man it was definitely due for a brake upgrade!!WOW!!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Whew, those brakes were SHOT!!! Nothing a few new parts can't fix though - keep up the great work & keep the pics coming.
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Haha! Yeah, I was wondering why the brake light was coming on and my hopes of salvaging the rotors came to a screeching halt after I saw this.
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
By the way, I had wanted to do one side at a time, but then gave in and did both at the same time. I started with the right side and followed with the left. You can see the new 4" lift springs already installed in the background. I'll post a how-to on that later...
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Next I removed the 7 bolts holding the backing plate. You can then pull the axle shafts out...
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Here you can see the axle shaft seal along with the copper washer and smaller spindle bearing seal. You can get the kit by Spicer. I'll post the part number later. You can also see the oil slinger/deflector that goes pressed into the axle shaft. It is on the left. You don't need to replace these if yours are in good shape. Mine looked really good so I just cleaned them up.
Attachment 751293 This is what your axle housing should look like if your inner axle shaft seals are in good shape and working properly... Attachment 751294 There should be no signs of oil or grease around that part of the axle housing. The left side was another story, you'll see shortly. Then I removed the lower ball joint nut and the upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nut. I sprayed good ol' PB Blaster in there just to loosen things up. Attachment 751295 Attachment 751296 Here is a view of the spanner nut that you will see once you remove the upper ball joint castle nut. The new ball joint comes with a replacement spanner nut so go ahead and remove it. You need the correct spanner socket. I got mine from RockAuto. Attachment 751297 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
5 Attachment(s)
Next I removed the lower ball joint snap ring.
Attachment 751302 Then I removed the tie bar. I used a pickle fork because I didn't have the correct tie rod removal tool, but I should have just gone out and bought it. It is inexpensive and would have saved the tie rod boots. Attachment 751303 Then I used the pickle fork to loosen the ball joints so that the spindle could be removed. TIP: Put the upper ball joint castle nut back on and finger tighten it so that when the ball joints break loose, the spindle won't crash onto the ground or your feet. You can also smack the "C" part of the axle housing right beside the ball joint with a 4 lb sledge and the ball joints should loosen with the vibration. You can do this if you don't have the pickle fork. Both ways will work. Attachment 751304 Attachment 751305 Now you can press the ball joints out. I am doing all of this in my driveway without any presses or special tools. I will show you how to do this with nothing but elbow grease and a little muscle. Here is the ball joint press that you will need along with the OTHER set of spacers. You need BOTH of these. They can both be rented from the parts stores or you can get them from Harbor Freight or various other places. Just make sure you get the 4X4 kit because YOU WILL NEED THE EXTRA SPACERS!!! Harbor Freight has the 4X4 set which contains all the parts of both sets below. Attachment 751306 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Since you've got it all apart - upgrade your steering set-up to a cross over system. It'll require a 2WD gear box most times, but makes a TON of difference in the handling - especially with a lift!
Something like this maybe: http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-6...3163/3948/3950 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Here are the ball joint part numbers...
Attachment 751322 I then moved on to the other side... Attachment 751325 This is what you DO NOT want to see when you remove the axle shafts. My plans were to "just" replace the ball joints, but as I learned, you really should also replace the inner axle shaft seals. These are the ones that are pressed into the inner axle housing at the differential housing. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. I almost didn't do this, but you will see why my better judgement prevailed. This is a sign that your inner axle shaft seals are bad and need replacing. The gear lube leaked all the way from the differential out to the outer axle housing on the end of the left axle shaft... Attachment 751323 Attachment 751324 Here I started to remove the lower ball joint on my "shop table":smoke:. I used the press and a 1/2" breaker bar. You will turn it until you hear it snap. At this point it will break loose and you just keep turning the press. The trick is to hold the part of the spindle with your left hand and tighten the ball joint press on the breaker bar with your right arm. You will feel the correct leverage. I'll post a picture in a while on how to do this. |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Attachment 751334
Next is the upper ball joint... Attachment 751335 Attachment 751336 Here I am removing the driver side lower ball joint. I used the breaker bar and my hydraulic jack handle for extra leverage. That joint was on tight but the jack handle made it a whole lot easier, and frankly, it wouldn't have been possible to do this by hand without that extra leverage. Attachment 751337 |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
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Back in the day all the OEM did have drain plugs on the transmission pans. However, people were just draining the fluid, but not changing the filter. So, to force you to drop the pan(and while you have it off, you may as well change the filter), the drain plugs were deleted. |
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Looks great! My vote is for 255/85r16's!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
piece by peice..coming along good man
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Good work! Keep it up!
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Really nice truck man!! I can't wait to get out of Iraq so I can take some elbow grease to my truck. Keep the pics comin
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Nice work! Did you get the axle seals replaced? Please tell me you're going to replace the axle u-joints while you're there too?
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