Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
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Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
Hmm ok the f-body pan is 1" shallower than the cts-v. Based on your pics it does look like they would hang below the f-body pan unfortunately.
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Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
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I had to order a set after this thread, for $300 bucks why not? The drivers side flange was just a tad warped but the gaskets should seal up just fine.
Stupid question... are they supposed to be offset like that? I find it weird that they do not meet "even" at the back. Also a close up pic of the drivers side where the header comes REAL close to a casting on the block. |
Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
Mine are close at that protrusion on the block, too. Also pretty common for header collectors to be staggered, depending on the design. Part of it is the offset of the cylinder banks, amongst other things
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Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
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I bought a set of the shorty headers for my truck.
Here are the pictures of the passenger side. It is TIGHT! I do not have gaskets in yet as this is just mockup. The v-band cannot be removed without loosening the manifold bolts. I need to check it with gaskets. That's a bummer if not. The collector is damn near touching the block. A clearance hammer may fix this. Runners 4 and 6 are touching. A little pry may loosen up this tolerance. Overall, for $149 bucks, I can't really complain. If I have to massage them a little, I am ok with that. |
Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
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Driver side. No gaskets installed yet. #1 primary is touching the block. Again, this can be clearance easy enough. V-band clears no problem.
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Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
I used the speed engineering ram horns and had no problems with clearance.
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I have a 1976 Blazer 2 wd. Lowered 5/7.
Installing LS3/6L80e. With Tejas mounts. Is there a reason to go with long tubes or shortys or mid length? and why? |
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Did everyone use the front holes or rear holes for your engine stands? I have the performance online tube stands with sliders and mounted in the rear frame holes. Engine slid all the way forward. The long tube 1 3/4 hit the clam shell design mount on the driver's side. Looks like I'm going to have to move my stands to the front frame holes and slide the engine back instead so they clear the driver's side...
LM7 5.3 motor POL tubular engine stands POL engine slider mounts(clamshell) Speed Engineering 25-1025 long tube headers :chevy: |
Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
Bueller...
Update. I slid the engine all the way back, my block adapters have the 2" slides. This worked to get the headers to clear the clamshell motor mount on driver's side. However I'm worried I might not have the cab clearance if I don't move my engine stands to front frame holes. My new stands cause me to drill new holes in cross member if I move them to front holes. Plus my stock truck oil pan may hit I dunno, it's gonna be close... |
Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
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I put my POL stands in the front holes on the frame.
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Has anyone used the Speed Engineering Headers with an SM465 2wd? And does the C10, C20 and C30 all have the same clearance for headers? I see a lot of C10 swap headers, but I don't see anything for C30.
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I just installed mine, passenger fit like a charm, no problem. Gives plenty of room for the starter too. Driver side headers hit the slave cylinder. If the slave was 2" shorter in length, I think they'd fit. It'd be super close, but they'd bolt on. |
Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
I had to go with the speed engineering ram horn headers for my 65 c10 as all of the others hit my external slave cylinder. The ram horn headers drop down nice and avoid everything. The exhaust guy will have to finish it off.
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Here is what I am talking about. It won't matter if my engine mounts are in the front holes or rear holes, it has to do with the sliders and the clamshell mounts and their location.
I slid my engine back in the adapters as far as it goes(2" sliders) and its just barely hitting the clamshell. I'm just holding the headers up so they aren't perfect but you get the idea. I can't modify the clamshell because the lock-nut is directly below the area the header is touching and i'm afraid the heat will melt the nylon in the nut after a good heat soak. I also want to wrap the headers in heat wrap so I need room to do that too. So I guess I am going to have to clearance the front tube a little to make this work.... I just hate doing this if I didn't have to... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rL...=w1292-h970-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lh...=w1292-h970-no :chevy: |
Re: Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings
I would just clearance the clam shells, just grind slow and should be just fine. if you're worried about the nylon nuts just take them out before you do it.
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Thoughts? Not sure header wrap will clear 3/16" gap, it will be touching yeah? :chevy: |
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