Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

It all depends where the problem is.....If the last builder tore the lip seals on the Overrun piston....The trans will have to come out.

If it is in the Boost valve system or Valve body/plate/gaskets....It can be fixed with the unit in the truck.

Drive it first (In D4) to see if it Shifts & Down shifts, Then we can diagnose from there. No since in correcting a issue if the trans has other issues!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Well got to drive the truck and it has ..issues. It's reluctant to shift out of first. Run it up..no shift. let off gas, reapply gas and it slams into 2nd. same for 2nd gear as let off, back on gas and slow to engage....sigh.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I'm guessing at a minimum I have a sticking TV plunger? Should I just go ahead and order the Trans Go 700-LU lock-up valve kit since there's no sense pulling the valve body to free it up only to have it stick again?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

If the TV Plunger is sticking about 20 good pulls on the TV cable with the engine running will unstick the Plunger.

If the TV Valve is sticking.....Install a TransGo 700 SK-JR kit in the Valve Body.

The TransGo 700-LU is just for lock-up....If you going to have the Valve Body off......Install it for sure!!!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Did what you suggested after getting it good and warm. As I'm screwing with it all of a sudden the pressure dropped and I have movement much earlier in the cable pull. Took it for a spin and walla...It shifted..like normal! Pressure is only 60 in Drive/idle now but got up into 4th with it kicking down into 3rd and down shifting like normal. I realize that pressure is now low out of spec but for now I'm just going to enjoy the small victory.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Depending on Model, 60 psi being Low is not necessarily true.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I just finished this incredible tech post. I have one question. I just picked up a 700 R4 core and will be rebuilding it. I have done Chrysler transmissions but no GM. I am installing it behind a GM crate engine in a 72 C20 that will do light towing on flat ground. Can I just get a kit and install it as is or do I need all of the parts you suggest. I like your idea on the amazon kit plus the seal kit along with the Transgo SK 700 and 700-P and filter. As long as everything else checks out can I get by with this? Thanks in advance, Mike

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

You will at least need a new stock Sun Shell, Amazon.com: ACDelco 24228345 GM Original...
Just got done Beta testing the new Alto Hi-Energy Graphite (HEG) Frictions with great success! I have been meaning to update this thread regarding this but forgot.

There is an outfit on Ebay selling complete (I Mean Complete!) rebuild kits with all HEG frictions, Includes a 3-4 "Powerpak" (Able to run 9 3-4's), All bushings, Thrust washers, Red Eagle band, Filter, Seals, & Steels for $173 shipped! http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH700R4-Rebu...3D360673914328

I have bought over 20 of this exact kit from them, 100% happy with the kit. Running a 4L60E version in my Camaro.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Its about time. I never understood selling something as a "KIT" that wasn't near completed and still needed 2 or 3 other "kits" to complete the first one. Its a huge hole in the transmission parts market that someone should fill for every unit.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Thanks for the advise. I ordered the kit along with the sunshell. I also added molded pistons and the transgo 700 JR. I think that should be enough for now. Any more and the $ benefits to me of the overdrive would start to go out the window beyond this. I will start the rebuild this weekend and make a new post. I still have to figure out all the other things needed like TV cable and what not. Also have question on driveshaft since I need a new carrier bearing and whether or not I should do one piece since I'm staying stock heighth c20. Will build a stand and tools as pictured. Thanks so far and I'm sure I'll have some questions but this tech article is amazing!!! Mike

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I too have a 700R4 mated to a 350 ZZ5 chevy performance crate motor and I just installed the Lokar cables (awesome product). I bought the B&M governor kit with the weights and springs to adjust the WOT shift points. The motor specs say peak HP is 400hp at 5600rpm red line is suppose to be @ 5800.

Where should my shift points at WOT be? 6000? 5800? 5600?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Now for some TCC wiring. I have some sort of two prong switch attached to the valve body, but NOT screwed into a port. My best guess is a Temperature switch. Can this switch be bypassed, removed, ignored?
If that switch wasn't there I would assume the wiring would be simply power (Red wire) to the TCC solenoid. Jumper (Black wire) to the 4th gear pressure switch. Then the Pressure switch would ground the circuit in 4th gear. But with this "Unknown" switch in between the two, I'm no sure how to proceed.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Yes it is the a Temp Switch, It closes at 280 degrees IIRC, It is a fail safe if the trans gets hot, The unit will lock-up in 4th gear no matter if the ECM commands TCC or not.

Eliminate the temp switch & wire it exactly like your second picture shows!!

Tech Tip....Take the Lead with the Black wires off the Temp Switch & Connect it to the 4th gear pressure switch. Cut out the other (Green/Tan) Temp Switch Lead.

Before you put the pan back on.....Test the TCC solenoid & 4th Pressure switch if you haven't already.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I tested the TCC solenoid before by hitting it with 12v and listening for it to click. Can I check the pressure switch with air? And if so, how much?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Awesome thread clinebarger :metal: just finished rebuilding my 700rR and this was very useful.

Upgrades:
corvette servo
.500 boost valve
beast sun shell
3 4 zpack clutches
hardened pump rings
double caged input sprag
transgo 700p separator plate
transgo 700jr shift kit
4l60e 2/4 band
B&M holeshot 2400 stall w/lockup

All going behind a rebuilt vortec 350 w/ comp xr270hr cam and 3.42 rear end. Hopefully all goes well at start up and the damn thing doesn't fry on me

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I recently had my local shop build a 700 for me and it feels fine under normal driving but when i get on the throttle it seems to shift too soon and will not downshift when getting hard on the throttle also. The transmission will not allow the engine to reach high rpms and make any power. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I did some research and came across SSS (short spring syndrome). I have not gone back to the shop with it yet, last time I talked with the builder he said "thats as good as I can get it without more money" so now I feel that I should just fix it myself. If I were to do it all over again, I would have just rebuilt my own tranny. Thanks for any info!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Interesting. That's just the opposite of what mine is doing. Mine wont shift at all under heavy throttle. Driving normal it shifts fine through all 4 gears. I'm going to look into it more this Spring when it gets warmer.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

If the TV cable is getting full pull at WOT.....Even if the spring is short....Your still getting max TV & the Trans is shifting solely on Governor pressure, SSS causes no off idle pressure & is a Friction killer, Do you have a pressure gauge?

How are your pressures? What Governor did you end up using?

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Pressures are still okay sense we figured them out. Although, I'm still not sure why there was the high pressure in the first place. The Governor came from another late model 700R4. I checked it over before installing it and it all looked good. The shift points went back closer to normal after that, except under heavy acceleration. Like trying to get ahead of traffic before the next light. Then it just wont shift. I have back out of the throttle to get it into 2nd. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th still seem to shift fine. I had a local transmission shop the TV cable and they said it was right.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I am going to put together a pressure gauge and check it out. I realize that without a gauge i am just guessing. I do know that the shop that built the transmission spent some time with the governor also, he had the truck for two days after I installed the transmission. My next step will be checking pressures.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Great post. a couple comments/questions.

What all comes with the 24243878 assembly? Mine came with a new GM 4 pinion input carrier, sun shell, and reaction shaft.

Also the spring part number for upgrading to the molded pistons is missing a number at the beginning. possibly a 2?
24206085 i think is the part number you meant to post.

great thread. looking forward to getting into my 700r4 with the guidance posted here.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Thanks for catching that.

That's how 24243878 comes now, In '08 GM redesigned the bearing under the Input Carrier, The Carrier & Shaft were changed to accept the bearing....The reason they send the Input Carrier also.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Oh OK thanks for clearing that up. I thought I got away with something when there was a new input carrier in the box. Lol. Got all the way to the point where I need to remove the pump. Going well so far. Fluid is black as night and the 2nd accumulator spring was cracked in two. Can't wait to see how the clutches look.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Yes. My trans is like this as well. I bought my truck with all the drivetrain installed and running. I changed out the TV cable and adapter on the carb to a BTO unit. There was a crappy $20 unit on there before that had a lot of flex. However, that did not solve the issue.

I put it in drive and step on it. It's a short shift for 1-2 and then again from 2-3. If I put it in OD right away, from a stop, it does the same thing, but it will hold 3rd gear until it's up higher in the RPM range. I don't know when it exactly shifts, I haven't paid attention to that.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Thank you for taking the time to share all of this with us and to answer our questions. Which I have two. You have called out the torque limitations of many of these parts and my question is that measurement referenced from at the flywheel or the rear wheels? And I am assuming that those torque limitations are calculated with an average 2 wheel drive installation and useage. If that is so I would expect to derate the torque limits by some percentage when installed in a vehicle with the ability to load the transmission more ie. four wheel drives used offroad or a vehicle set up for a drag racing application. Any input you have on this would be appreciated. Your knowledge of these transmissions is amazing, and I wish I lived closer so I could have you rebuild one for me thus giving me piece of mind that I had the job done right. Back in the day my GTO would destroy a T400 every 18 to 24 months. Up side was I never had to service a tranny.:lol:

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

simple adjustment of the downshift cable on the carb and she shifts perfectly
i added the FiTech EFI and the cables needed to be readjusted again so i took the truck by a transmission shop and talked the old timer/owner into adjusting it for me himself which he did, now the truck drives absolutely like it's a new truck. I am so happy to have finally reached the point where i can just drive the truck and not have to be planning out the next thing that needs done! :smoke:

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I stated a torque limit on a stock Delco SunShell at 350 ft.lbs., That's at the wheels.

In a serious wheeler or drag racer.....Run a Sonnax Smart Shell & Sleeve the Input Drum. I didn't cover many performance modifications in this thread.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Great. Thanks for the speedy reply.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I can't do that with the set up I have. It uses a stock style TV cable and automatically adjusts itself.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

My annulus gear is worn quite a bit on the outside. There are several pronounced ridges on each of the raised areas. Should it be replaced? Thanks!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Take a new 3-4 friction and slide it up & down the Annulus/3-4 Clutch Hub, If it hangs up on any of the grooves....Replace it. The last thing you want is the 3-4 clutch not releasing!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

First off I must say thank you for all of the very informative information within this thread for a DIY rebuild of the 700R/4L60/E transmission! I am about to rebuild my 1990 core to go behind a mild 383 with ~425hp (sorry I don't want a 4l80E....the truck will see very few WOT runs and only a few burnouts initially just to get it out of my system :).....

....I will be replacing/upgrading all of the key components along with high quality Torrington bearings, moulded pistons from with corresponding return spring, sonnax shell, sonnax supported input drum, reverse drum, pump rebuild with hardened rings, vette servo, pinless accumulators, appropriate valve body modifications with new separator plate and there's probably a couple things I missed but got the main list of things....anyways....I am having a hard time deciding what 3-4 clutch pack to get. I am a bit leery of the 9 pack systems with the thin steels even though they are kolene treated. Would a high quality 6 pack alto red pack with kolene steels be sufficient or perhaps an 8 friction setup would be best. Thoughts and recommendations please

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

DO NOT USE Alto Red Eagles in the 3-4 Clutch!!!

Using High Energy Frictions & the Latest OEM Hardened 4L60E Apply & Backing Plates are most important parts to this equation, Besides good Pressure Rise.

6-Friction Set-up...
6 Borg Warner .080" High Energy Frictions.
5 GM .106" Treated Steels.
3-4 Apply Plate GM# 8685044.
3-4 Backing Plate GM# 24212460.

7 Friction Set-up...
7 Borg Warner .080" High Energy Frictions.
6 .077" Kolene Threated Steels.
3-4 Apply Plate GM# 8685044
3-4 Backing Plate GM# 24212460.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Clinebarger, what's your advice on TV cable setup at the carb end, especially regarding the TV position in the valve body?

I've got a good OEM TV cable, but nothing yet for the carb.

I've looked at the BowTie Overdrives site and info, looks like good stuff, but their kit is for the Edelbrock Q-jets, which have different throttle arms than my '67 Rochester Q-jet shown below.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...h_image_7.jpeg

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I wonder if a late Q-jet throttle shaft will fit your early Carb?? You will have to correct that geometry for sure.

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

I don't know for sure, but I think so - have to see.

I'll hit a wrecking yard looking for a vehicle with 700R4 and Qjet, and get the throttle shaft and cable bracket.

I'm assuming the correct geometry is shown in the image below? (Purplesage website)

The Bowtie Overdives site talks about the position of the TV valve at idle, what is your opinion on that? Does the correct carb geometry pretty much guarantee the proper position of the TV Valve at idle and WOT?

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...fo/700R4-2.jpg

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Those images are from a GM service manual & are correct.

Blueprinting the TV system is highly recommended. But that starts with the TV Plunger having zero slack between it & the TV Spring. Which requires a spring loaded return for the TV Valve to check with the Valve Body installed (Trans Go TV Valve).

You want very little preload at Idle then Instant Pressure Rise with throttle movement, Verify this with a gauge!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

AWESOME thread, I found this thread doing google searches about the 700r4 I'm re building for my '93 Corvette.

I've followed along but now I'm stumped, could anybody provide any insight? So I'm second owner of the car, car worked fine a few years until I lost reverse, & the teardown shows lo-reverse clutches disentegrating (fluid was trashy too). The trans looks like a GM rebuild, V /MD8 case, with the code ground off and a sticker on the bellhousing.

Valve body is a 4442, aluminum slugs in the hydraulic TCC channel. The thing that has me stumped is that instead of a one piece 1-2 throttle valve sleeve and valves I have the two piece, 1-2 sleeve and "lo range control sleeve" like an older valve body. Also the really weird part is the little 1-2 "lo range control" valve is missing. I've searched all over, thinking maybe it fell out when I dissasembled the valves but this seems unlikely & I didn't find it under or around my workbench.

Is this a normal configuration? Should I just get a new later series re-man valve body?
thanks!

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

If it has a separate "Low Range" Bushing, It needs separate "Low Range" Valves.

Being a "GM" rebuild, Lord knows what happened, Show me a pic of the line-up.

I have a early VB at work, I will snap some pics for you.

In the mean time, Here is what I have on my computer....
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/m...psuq0mep46.jpg

Re: 700R4 build thread.
 

Thanks! It looks like I have something similiar to the arrangement in the bottom of your scan. This is what I've been running last two two years before I lost reverse & found the lo reverse clutches smoked. A couple of years ago I installed a B&M kit, hence the blocker rod for the line bias valve, & no TV modulator upshift spring. I used this for two years & liked it on the Corvette. It has 2.59 gears in the rear so maybe that softened the hard 1-2 shift. But anyway I'm going to get rid of the B&M mods, except maybe leave the tv modulator upshift spring out because you seemed to speak positviely of this, earlier. But I know you said blocker rod in line bias = bad, so I'm getting rid of that, & who knows maybe the B&M stuff contributed to the early demise of the clutches.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...body_right.jpg

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/..._body_left.jpg