Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I'm running spindles and mmw control arms. looks like you might have to notch the control arm for steering shaft?

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I’m all stock, going as cheap as possible. Yea probably I will do so after I slap cab back on and see exactly how much I need to knotch and where exactly

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I've been trying to stay cheap through the whole thing. and I have 7k into it

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

One of a kind is "priceless"! In my neck of the woods it sure would be...

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I went 1.5" and when I realized that I'd need to notch the control arm I ordered a no limit R&P kit. I don't like spending $1k on a single component but for the amount of work it would take to DIY a R&P I think it's worth it.

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I’ll save my $1000 and just weld some notches in :smoke:

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

Yeah I think if you're fine with the stock steering there's no need to go R&P -- in my case I was going to convert in the future anyway, and just didn't want to waste the effort getting the stock steering to work now only to upgrade it later.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

Nvm

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

The X-member on my dually is notched 1.5" (89 Square body). The lower a-arms are PB 1" forward units but I originally had the modified OE lowers moved forward .750".

My set-up did require the small notch to the upper driver a-arm as mentioned. MMW uppers & later model OE uppers also had too large of an OD @ the bushing area & would not have cleared (I still have the MMW arms sitting in a box on the shelf three years later :rolleyes: ).

When I'm air'd out, I can slip a slim piece of cardboard between the shaft/notch (like a spiral notebook cover).

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

Out of curiosity why did you ditch the factory lowers?

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

When I cupped the arms, I allowed for ~1/2" of clearance on my mock-up bag @ 25psi. Installed, the weight of the BBC plus those heavy hubs expanded the bad more than I liked (my clearance was about the thickness of a yardstick). I felt once the suspension started moving around, the bag would likely make contact.

I opted for Porterbuilt arms as they would swap right in place, had the forward placement option, & already had a tab for a sway bar (I still had to figure that out for the modified factory lowers as the original mounting position was no longer an option).

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I too tried this and failed. Now i have to make my own motor mounts for my 292 :(

nevertheless, it is an awesome write up

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

Failed how?

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

well it isnt a complete failure cus it looks cool and i made it work but im having a hard time leveling the engine and making motor mounts. So i went to put in a spare c20 cross member i had and its not the same. they are different

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

The way the x-member in this thread was sectioned should not alter the MM tower dimensions. Makes me wonder how yours are not working? I've done 4 of these & all re-used the MM towers w/o issue. One even used aftermarket MM towers & they fit/worked w/no problem.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

they bolt on just fine the problem is that i too have to section them as well to bolt on to the motor...

unless i make up the difference from the frame to the engine with some square tubing which i found out about yesterday

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I think you did it wrong, the surface where the engine mounts should not have moved at all relative to the frame.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

Not so much 'wrong' since there's more than one method/version of x-member notching. But, if he did it the way this "How To" thread describes, the MM towers should not require mods unless an x-member from a different year model was used.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I think the issue is when you raise the steering up to keep the stock geometry. That's the problem I ran into with mine. My crossmember was sectioned 2" and raised the steering the same. I had to move the engine up to clear the drag link. When I had the 292 in it, I spaced the mounts up about 1.750" and chopped some of the oil pan. I've now switched to an LS and had issues with the crank pulley hitting the drag link. I have the mounts spaced 1.5" and used dirty dingo sliders on square body clamshells. It took some moving around but I think I have the engine in a spot that they can coexist peacefully.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I didn't move the steering. I also limited things to 1.5" to avoid the domino effect. These trucks had geometry issues w/o modification. I didn't notice steering related issues until my Dually. But, that's my fault as I was super agressive on Caster (7-ish).

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

Its been done.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

Post that info up if possible?

I've seen how they did their initial set-up for their R&P kit (notching the x-member @ the rail area only). I didn't think sectioning an x-member as described within this thread would work w/the NL R&P kit.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

I got my no limit kit and it looks like everything will clear with some modifications to the mounting bracket and steering linkage location, and probably frame notches for the R&P links. Side note, not super happy with the quality of this kit -- sloppy grinding on the rack, hoses installed crooked, plastic crossover line instead of metal... probably more to notice upon install.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

Ahh..... It could work w/further modifications.

Re: HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...
 

what happened to the pics they dont show up:(