Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

I left the saddles in place with the stock rivets as well. Not certain why the OP removed them only to reinstall with socketheads.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

I installed socket heads. One of the reasons is someone previously mounted the lower a-arms and didn't ensure they were seated properly, the locating pins were crushed some and I wanted to ensure they worked properly.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

It wasn't really a requirement to knock out the rivets on the saddles. I just wanted maximum engagement on all four points. I machined the new spotfaces in the shafts .005" over the diameter of the Grade 8 socket heads, and the added height of the sockethead (versus the height of the rivet) makes for a positive interaction where the shaft locks in to the saddle. With the rivet, you're only engaged at the height of the outer lip. It'll work fine, because that's all the factory required, but I tend to overkill when it comes to suspensions.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Hey guys, I moved my LCA's ahead by 3/4". They were original steel bushing style shafts.

I got an alignment done today. The caster reading was 5.5 degrees. Just an FYI...

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

I spoke with an old hot rodder/racer about this the other day about this and he said the uppers see so much force under breaking that it would probably shift. My uncle was a front end mechanic for chevy for 30 years. I told him what I was doing and the upper arm shaft idea and he suggested to fine tune the uppers he would unbolt the shaft from the studs and twist it. He said he used to do it all the time and each turn on the shaft is just under 1/4" forward or backwards off the top of his head.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Was he referring to twisting the upper shaft in the end caps? It would kinda make sense. While installing them you want the caps to go on equally and tighten them down from there. The only problem with this is that you wouldn't want to have the the shaft improperly engaged in one cap (front in this case). I will agree that it is worth a closer look. Im not so sure the shafts would shift if properly torqued but his idea is free and machining isn't. The front suspension on my truck is disassembled at the moment and I was just about to order new u-bolts to reassemble it so it I do think its a good time to investigate the possibilities. Its been a while since I've even thought about this whole thing.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Yes, twisting them in the caps...After I talked to him and was thinking about this, I also was concerned about moving the shaft far enough forward that it would bottom out in the front cup during suspension travel and cause issues. Just need to pay attention.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

I think you'd have to twist one cap one way, the other cap the opposite -- otherwise you'd draw the caps in or move them out equally netting no caster gain. I'd be concerned about removing bearing surface on the one end of the shaft though, causing premature wearout since the caps are the actual friction surfaces.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

You are correct in tightening one and loosening the other when it comes to the caps, but since both ends are right hand turn when you twist a shaft already installed the shaft moves forward and backwards. It won't squeeze or push the ears of the control arm at all.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Ended up doing my arms, got the idea from Rob but decided to take a different approach I saw another member here took. I am on a tight budget so went this way, might brace them up a bit, we will see. I'm not the best fabricator, but I'm happy with them. Moved them over .75

Thanks to everybody.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshwcj7zhz.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...psssywvsrv.jpg

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Definitely..... plate & brace them.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Anybody have any ideas on how to do this with this set up?

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

I am sorry? WHY did you do this? I would not run those even with bracing and plating. Seems to have defeated the purpose and created a dangerous situation. Please explain.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Lol what purpose was defeated here? Little dramatic aye?
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

A piece of 3/16 plate across the bottom & on the sides (F&R).

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Thanks. I have two more sets of arms so if these don't work
I'll try a different method.
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Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Definitely plate top/bottom. Don't want that breaking off while driving!

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Have you installed "skid plates" on the lower parts of your front end

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Ok bad idea, I get it. As soon as I did it I wasn't very confident, not sure if bracing will be enough??

Ill just do the way Rob did it with moving the BJ hole over with another set of arms I have.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

I have had a experience with skid plates and lower suspension parts!

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

OH my! Are you ok? Do tell the story.

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Long story !
Very interesting ride, until we got the truck off the road!
All fixed and gaining more confidence every day

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

Just trying to save a life here. Sorry I was dramatic. I meant no harm. Just doesn't look safe. If you moved the arm forward by the mod method, and then moved the ball joint mounting then didn't you basically just move the place where the spring sits? I just don't follow what you've done here. I am a little slow today. Again, I mean no harm just trying to figure this out. As I understand the MOD it moves the whole arm and that is what it is intended to do. Or did you move the ball joint in the same direction creating even more caster?

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

I don't see any problem with modding the arms the way ranger has, as long as he ties in the sides and welds a plate across the bottom. He's just moving the balljoint over to improve caster while leaving the spring pocket in the correctly aligned location.

@solidaxel, how did you manage to drag your lower balljoint on the ground? Did your wheel fall off?

Re: My caster mod (with pictures)
 

I did my first set of arms in a similar way.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...4/SAM_1232.jpg
The plating is more important on the sides than top and bottom. You lost the strength of the arms when you cut through the sides. Think of bending a ruler when it is flat vs standing on its side.