Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

For Sale items have to be placed in the proper Classified Area http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=62

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

anyone know when the next meet is

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

A little spam?

That was taken care of fast, thank you!

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

Ok, guys, where do you all recommend getting an Automatic Transmission fluid dipstick and filler tube from? I want to get one new since I don't want to take any chances with a used one from the pick a part. I think I finally narrowed down my leaking trans fluid issue with a rusting out area on my filler tube where the bracket attaches to it. I have a TH350.

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

id go with lokar flexible dipstick.

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

Cool, let me see who has them. I think I've heard of them. Aren't they kind of expensive though?

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

any one know of a good brake shop , around the area i need to do my brake swap and i need it done right so thats is why i am not attempting to do it my self hhhaha

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

Playing around the DMV site and was amazed this shows as available. Of course any background goes, but this looked so right. If you want them go for it, there is going to be only one set.

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

Ttt for a paint shop around us ... The insurance is making me lay the wood In my bed so i said wtf mine as well paint it hahah I'm going to be living in my truck after it's done . So if you guys see me sleeping my truck stop by and say hi

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

TTT for cruising or get togethers in Orange County. I have a 71 c10 ochre longbed and i saw another one today in Fullerton. Anyone know who that is?

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

I was curious why they are making you do that? What is the insurance company? Mine didn't mention anything at all about my rotted wood bed covered by a slab of plywood or something or other, I got.

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

its AAA i told the guy over the phone and he said no problem then he calls me and is like if i dont fix were going to drop you and charge you a cancellation fee .... damm insurance companys

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

Wow. That's insane

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

AAA sucks they have dropped the ball on my insurance to many times. One time they didnt cancel my policy even though i went into the office to take care or it. Another time they didnt get medical on my full coverage, caught that when we went to use it. Had to use a lawyer to straighten it out. They wouldnt write a full coverage policy on my 74 at a ten grand value. Im done with them.

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

It was hard enough to find a company that would insure my truck that I could use it as a DD .. AAA was the cheapest , the dude told me what every I wanted to hear over the phone to get me buy the insurance . Now they got me where they want me lol

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

I'm using Farmers , no hassles , daily driver .

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

Hi guys, I have a quick question. Which tube do I hook up my vacuum gauge to? I have an inline 6 with a carb. But I don't know which model I have. I found a diagram for the vacuum lines but am not sure which one I need to use to measure the vacuum.

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

LA Craigslist: 1973 Chev Cheyenne Super 20 Camper Special 4 x 4 (Oak Park)

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...406470920.html

Re: Vacuum Gauge
 

Easy-Peasy ! .

It depends on what carby you have , unhook the various small vacuum hoses until you find one with a strong vacuum @ idle ~ when you disconnect the correct one , it'll whistle loudly , the engine will briefly speed up then die ~ connect it there , using a 'T' fitting and some new hose , 99 % of the time to old hoses are stiff and leaky ~ if any vacuum hose is easy to pull off it is BAD and making your engine suffer .

Let me know if you want to learn how to use this gauge to adjust the carby's idle mixture .

-Nate

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

I just switched to Poway General who writes for mercury and hagarty. Customer service was great. They insure the 67 and 06 with no questions, Farmers couldnt touch there price for the equal coverage. Really happy with them.

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

I'm using Farmers Ins. Co. here in Cali , not hassles atall , not the cheapest but they bind me with no worries .

Re: Vacuum Gauge
 

Yeah i would love to learn more on how to tune with it. I'm not familiar at all with it. But i figured i have to learn sometime. Thanks for the info Nate!

Re: Vacuum Gauge
 

Hey that last bit about the easy to pull off hose may be true. The hose to my PCV valve is pretty easy to pull off the manifold port. I think that may be causing my engine to run really rough. I have to replace my EGR valve possibly as that may be bad too. I'm just trying to figure out why my engine is just having issues and running really rough before it warms up.

Re: Vacuum Hoses
 

Any time any vacuum hose is easily removed , it needs replacing straightaway as it's leaking vacuum and this is always a bad thing .

Periodically you should give any hose under the hood a slight tug when the engine is off ~ if it easily slips off without twisting , it is bad and needs replacing .

Most folks never give the various vacuum hoses any thought until it rots completely away and falls off ~ this is a serious mistake as your engine doesn't like vacuum leaks of any sort .

EGR valves are a mixed bag ~ older models tend to have a vacuum source to them as soon as the engine starts and this causes driveability problems , mostly flat spots off idle (hesitation) .

If you don't want to disable the EGR , choose a vacuum source that only provides a vacuum signal off idle .

-Nate

Re: SoCal checkin' in
 

To use a vacuum gauge to adjust the carby ;

First you *must* have the timing set properly to 0° ~ 6° BTDC @ idle of 700 RPM's or less , then insure the spark plugs are gapped to at least .040" (.060" if HEI) and the center electrode's shoulders are sharply squared off , if they're rounded it'll loose power .

Connect the vacuum gauge to the port below the carby so it has a constant vacuum signal , start and warm up the engine fully .

Set the idle speed to 1,000 RPM and s - l - o - w - l - y turn the idle mixture screw in as you keep an eagle eye on the vacuum gauge ~ in time it will begin to rise , as you get the screw further in the gauge's needle will begin to flicker and if you turn it in further the engine will begin to shake and miss ~

Gently play with it to get a feel for how the needle responds to your fiddling with the mixture screw and then turn it to where the needle gets it's highest , steady reading , then back it out maybe a 1/16th of a turn and let it idle longer while you blow on your seriously burned fingers , I have no idea why the hell GM put the ding-dang mixture screw right there where it's easy to see but hard to access ~ I have a 3' long 1/8" flat bladed screw driver I use for just this job, gotta watch out the back end of the screw driver doesn't get caught in the P.S. belt .

To recap : adjust the carby's mixture screw to get the gauge's highest _steady_ reading then back it off a tiny fraction and you're good to go ~ you can then fiddle the idle speed to suit if you want , 600 ~ 1,000 is the desired hot idle speed .

Once the mixture is set and the idle speed is adjusted , do not touch the mixture screw again .

If it stalls when cold started , the fast idle speed is adjusted by gently bending the vertical rod from the choke plate downwards , when the throttle is held open ~ at the bottom of the rod is a stepped fast idle plate that lifts as you gently bend the rod using two pairs of pliers ONLY AT THE PROVIDED BENDS ~ a little bit will do , don't be a jerk and pretzel the rod like Gas Station idiots do as they're impossible to find once you've ruined them .

It's is critical that the stepped fast idle cam thing toches nothing when the choke is fully open ! .

I hope this helps .