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Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
After 6 months of searching... within days of selling Earl... I found my new truck in Montana. It arrived last week and I’ve managed to get a few things done. Nice, solid survivor with a new GM crate 350. Clean and stock, but still so much to do. I’ll update when I can, but here’s an ‘as arrived’ and ‘as of now’...
Morning after I got it off the trailer... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5b9f0a49f.jpeg And a week in. I did a lot of small things beyond removing the running boards and big, honkin’ towing flaps, but it’s all pretty banal stuff. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...795a3dc9c.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab5b9ce43.jpeg Need to get tires sorted (15x6 wheels... ugh...) and figure out a deep hum-rumble-vibration that shows up between 45-50mph. Hopefully u-joints or an unbalanced tire and not something more drastic. Then a hub swap, then... then... then... More soon! |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Beautiful truck, looks even better without the running boards and mud flaps.
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Thanks, Gary. I think the family and I are gonna enjoy it. Some things to go through, but that’s always the case, yeah?
R |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Wow, that looks very nice. Can you post some interior pics?
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Thanks! Interior is pretty nice. Bone stock and clean. I haven’t been able to take any interior photos yet, but here are a few from the seller. Piping on driver’s seat needs replaced. Hard headliner drooping slightly in the front. Otherwise, I like it!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9fafbddef.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b9252a670.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...781481e1c.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7f798d66c.jpeg |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Wow that looks very nice! Wish I could find a nice Burb like that.
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
What a beauty!!
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Took about 6 months of serious searching coast-to-coast. This truck checks almost all the boxes. Some rust scabs that I need to get a plan for... needs u-joints... and the NP203 full-time 4WD is a mystery at this point. But I think this is a good starting point for an everyday truck and family adventure rig. Only minor disappointment is just how limited tire choice is for stock 15x6 steel wheels. My preference is to run the dog dish caps, but I’d really like a taller tire for driving the forest roads and to get the highway RPMs a bit lower. These Toyos don’t have much life left, so wheels/tires are a near term consideration.
Tough to tell in the photos since the paint is pretty oxidized, but this is a code 71 metallic red and tan truck. Here’s a ‘78 GM promotional shot of a Suburban in these colors. Pretty inspirational! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2a3a05bea.jpeg |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
I think the rally wheels look great in the photo and would look great on your truck. Put some 31x10.50 tires on them for a little off road use, and you're all set.
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
15x8 rally wheels are certainly an option. They can add up with rims, caps, trim rings. 15x8 or 16" waggons ("styled steel") are an option too. I do wish there was a 15x8 or 16" steel option to run dog dish caps for the 6-lug trucks. I'd like to run 31" or 32" BFG T/As or an E rated 16" tire.
U-joints this weekend. Hopefully I've ordered the right parts. Not sure I'll mess with the CV joint this go-round. But the deep hum-rumble-vibration that shows up between 45-50mph is pretty disconcerting. Hope this solves that. Then I'll feel pretty damn fine about the mechanical condition of this truck. Cruise control is on the bubble for the near term. I commute 275 miles round trip once a week and cruise would be nice on the highway. It's all there and seems like it will work. But when the GM crate 350 went in, they skipped the cruise transducer with the speedo cable. Went right from t-case to speedometer. So need to figure out part numbers for the two cables. Should be straight forward. Anywhere I can turn to educate myself on the NP203? I really don't have any experience with this full-time 4WD and lots of people have mentioned swapping or converting the t-case. Need to educate myself. Fun stuff, eh? Thanks for the comments. R |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
You could run the rally wheels without rings and caps, it doesn't really look bad that way. I don't know of an 8 inch wheel that accepts stock caps, but there may be something out there. The cruise may have been bypassed because it didn't work, only one way to find out. It's just an ordinary speedo cable in and out, you may be able to find some generic ones that will work.
The 203 has an internal differential to allow you to drive on pavement in 4wd. But, if one wheel totally loses traction, you can get stuck. That's why the shifter has the lock position, it locks the front and rear axles together for more traction. There are part-time conversion kits out there, not sure how complicated the installation is. Lots of reading on the four wheeler boards. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
LOTS of reading about the 203 on the 4-wheeler boards. Sheesh! That's not really my application, so I guess I'll take it with some salt. I do get some tire scrubbing in parking lots and the truck doesn't really coast like a 2wd or a part-time 4wd... but otherwise, is a conversion really worth it? Will there be any appreciable gas mileage improvement? Will the truck eat front tires without? Will my front end and t-case blow to smithereens if I don't slam in a conversion or swap to a 205? Hmmm....
I haven't been able to find a 15x8 or a 16" wheel for 6-lug that will accept the stock caps and I've been looking consistently since I realized that the stock wheels are 15x6 and I'm maxed out at a 29" tire. 235/75R15s. Actually... Wheel Vintiques makes a 6-lug OE-style 15x8 steelie that'll take the caps, but shipping is gonna be harsh. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
The NP203 is not as bad as every one makes them out to be. One plus is it has a better low then a NP205 (2.73 vs 1.96). They are picky on the oil used in them. ATF is to thin and gear oil two thick. It takes straight 30 weight as a lot of the chain issues come from using the wrong oil. As with any AWD vehicle the tires will need to be a matching set of 4. I ran a set of 10" wide rims on a truck with one and they wore the tires much faster then the narrower tires on the 7" or 8" factory rims. Also I wouldn't go bigger then 31" tires if running a 2.76 or 3.07. Check your SPID. If your NP203 is in good working order I wound leave it as is.
Also you should be able to get the Wheel Vintiques rims from Summit Racing and if the order is over $100 dollars ground shipping is free. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Thanks, AJC. I appreciate the info. I knew to use straight 30 weight, and will definitely run a matching set of 4. I'm only looking to go to a 15x8 or a 16" wheel. Not 10" wide. 3.73 gears so figured I was good with 31"-32" tires. With a 31", I'd get under 3000rpm at 70mph on the highway. 32", a bit less than that.
Does the AWD feature of the NP203 limit it as far as highway driving? 16" rims would get me an E rated tire. Summit currently only has the 15x7 Series 62 wheels listed. That would get me on 31x10.5-15 rubber. Could always go rally wheels or wagons... |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Been trying to devise a strategy for dealing with the surface rust that doesn't involve a full re-paint (yet) but doesn't look too crappy... I think whatever needs addressed on the tan paint should be pretty easy to to address and blend in. The upper red, however, is pretty oxidized and I'm not sure how to approach that and not have it look like a patchwork...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...722e868b8.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c2e962c52.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4db096eed.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...28bba1c9d.jpeg |
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Nice that you got 3.73 gears. Makes it easier if you ever go to an overdrive transmission. The NP203 should handle highway driving just fine but proper lubrication is key. Even the part time kits recommend driving in 4 high every couple hundred miles to make sure the front of the transfer case gets proper lubrication. So at least with a full time you don't have to worry about that.
Bummer on Summit not having the right size rim. You could go to rally wheels but I dig the hub caps. I would try buffing the paint to get closer to the original paint color. It should also help with paint matching. You can do it by hand or machine. Just be careful about not rubbing through and test somewhere inconspicuous first. Like the roof. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
3.73 gears seem just right for the way I use my trucks. I’ve had 3.73s in most of them since I was 16. I don’t anticipate ever going to an OD tranny, but you never know.
I’m up in the air about the full-time or converting to part-time. I’m good with either, just thinking on which set of options would be most useful for me. Is 2wd important for the kind of driving this rig will see? Or is the AWD more useful? Would losing the AWD and only having 4 High Lock be ok? Hmmmm... stuff to ponder. U-joints in the morning. Probably gonna kick myself for not doing the CV at the same time, but I couldn’t source the ball kit to arrive in time. Ah, trucks! R |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
One thing to think about is how you use it. Will you drive it in the snow? Will you be using it for any serious 4x4 duty, or just light stuff like forest service roads?
For light duty stuff, and snow, the AWD full time is just fine and can be better than the part time set up. However if you plan on getting really serious then the part time conversion is a good plan. I also just got a new Suburban, a 90. It is a 3/4 ton 4x4 and has a part time case factory. I lucked out and got a LSD in the rear, so I plan to leave it alone. It will see light duty off roading and snow. I also had to order tires. I struggled with the same issue as you. I want the stock steel wheels with caps. It currently has 20in rims on it and they suck. In the end I ordered some all terrain stock size load range E. Good luck with you project, I will be interested to follow as you continue to work on it. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
U-joints. Ugh. 5 hours to get the front replaced. Rears are going much easier. Should have done the CV while I was under the front...
Yeah, snow and forest service roads. No “serious” 4x4ing. Just average country family 4wd situations. Sounds like the full-time AWD will be fine for that. I guess that leaves the highway miles... which I will guess will be fine with the AWD rather than 2wd. I saw your ‘90 ‘burb posted. Glad you’re not keeping the 20s. 3/4 Ton 8-lug will get you an OE-style 16” rim so you can run stock caps and E load range all terrains. Wish it was as simple for 6-luggers. 15x8 would be ok, but they aren’t currently in stock. New issue. Cab and tail supports too far gone to pass Pennsylvania state inspection. Ugh. Guess the truck will sit until I have the cashola to get that fixed. :( |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
How bad is it? The outside looks pretty good, are the cab supports rusted though?
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
They’re pretty bad. Outside has had some work... new rockers, some pretty good bondo work. (Who goes through the trouble of replacing body panels but not the structural parts?!) Fronts seem straightforward, but the rear is gonna be a bear for the body man. I didn’t think this would keep the truck from passing inspection. It’s in such good shape otherwise. Apparently no inspection in Montana.
Kids are sad. Body guy can’t get to it until mid-September at the soonest. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Well that sucks. Guess it gives you some time to work on other things. Are you going to track down some factory rear 3 point seat belts or do you have something else in mind? Because with kids back there and how unpredictable others drivers are today; it's better to be safe than sorry. I can keep an eye out for a set if you want.
We have no inspection here in MN. Which is good as my drive side floor in my K10 is an old campaign sign. And if we did have inspections at least a quarter of the vehicles wouldn't pass due to how bad rust is here. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
I am surprised that it has rust that bad, it looks great from the outside. There are many many states that do not have an inspection. Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, even Calf only inspects the emissions as well as Arizona last I knew. California and Arizona may have changed, but I when I lived there, all they did was check the smog equipment and at that time used a go-nogo gauge for the fuel tank. Back when we could still buy leaded gas.
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
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They’re pretty bad and they’re on my list to fix when I get into bodywork. The body panels are pretty good replacement and decent body filler work. Pennsylvania has become militant about rust during vehicle inspections. But the state contributes in a huge way by salting and spaying god forsaken BRINE on the highways.
I get inspection for tires, brakes, frame rot... I didn’t expect this. And Spencer and Nora are chomping at the bit to take daddy’s truck on a “venture”! |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
We are very lucky where I live. We don't get much rain, less than 9in per year. No salt or brine is ever used on the roads and there is always super low humidity. So my truck is completely rust free.
I even have a 65 C10 that is very solid, only rust is in the front fenders where they collect dirt and it sits and rots, ever 60's Chevy truck has rotten fenders. At least most of that work can be done and you wont have to paint, just heavy undercoat. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Earl, my prior '71 C10 Suburban had pretty limited rust. He came from Utah. This truck I thought would be better than it is, being from Montana and supposedly not used through most winters.
I DO KNOW this is far and away better than pretty much ANYTHING that has lived most of it's life in the Northeast. I could probably sell this truck for at least 50% more than I paid for it simply because it's here in PA now... I know I got an offer on Earl the day I drove him into the driveway for the first time that was double what I had paid. So... I still feel lucky. Just don't really have the $1000+ handy to get this done and waiting until there's room in the shop sometime in September is gonna drive me bonkers. Ahhhhh, old trucks! |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
That is not to bad I was expecting much worse.
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
So with all this enjoyable talk about rust and wheels, I never really spec'd out what the long-term build plan is for this truck. So, for your consideration and comment...
BUILD SPEC - July 31, 2019 Overall Goal The plan is for a stock-plus build of a mild family hunt/fish/camp/adventure rig keeping it true to the mid- to late-'70s. It should be capable in the snow and on state forest roads but still a daily driver and comfortable and safe for longer highway trips. Current Stats 1978 K10 Suburban Silverado * New Crate GM 190hp 350 V8 <4000 miles * Original Q-Jet * TH350 - no apparent issues * NP203 - full-time no apparent issues * 3.73 gears - no apparent issues * Brakes are new * 15x6 stock steel wheels with dog dish caps * Crappy Toyo tires - 235/75/R15s * Air Conditioning - converted to R134a and working well. Front only. * Cruise Control - speedo cable bypasses transducer so unknown if it works * Comfortilt steering wheel * Tailgate - glass motor works fine * HD Transmission Oil Cooler * Factory dual exhaust * Two-tone paint 71 Metalic Red (Red Poly, later called 'Dark Carmine') 60 Santa Fe Tan * Red special custom interior Overall clean inside and out. Drive train seems solid and well maintained with a few suspect things to go through. Interior is overall good with a few bothersome things like cracked/torn piping on the driver's seat and a low front headliner. Body is solid with some decent quality rust repair here and there, but surface scabs popping up in a few places that mean eventually we're gonna need to address rust. Cab mounts rusted out, only inspection failure point. BUILD PLAN DRIVE TRIAN * Engine - New 350, so not much to worry about here. Whoever did the install did a nice job and everything seems right. Runs smooth, if a little mild for such a heavy truck. Open to suggestions for some performance improvements! Nothing too radical and I like carbs, though I'm still learning about them. * Transmission - Not going to an OD transmission. Doesn't appeal to me on this truck. The TH350 seems to be doing exactly what it needs to do. Shifts smoothly. Going to do a fluid change. * Transfer Case - I've decided to stick with the NP203 and not convert to part-time. I do want to get it to someone who knows the 203 case and understands them to go through it and service it if needed. Minimum, I want new 30w oil in it. * Differentials - pull covers, inspect, fluid change. * Drive shafts - I have a "cabin boom" at 45-50mph that I'm trying to get rid of. U-joints were my first suspect, so I'm in the process of changing them. We don't have a driveshaft shop anywhere local, so I don't have the opportunity to have the shafts balanced or the double cardan (CV) or slip joints serviced. Hopefully the new U-joints eliminate the boom. It's the only issue in an otherwise nice driving truck. Honestly, if this doesn't do it, I'm open to picking up a new front driveshaft for $250. * Front end - tie-rod ends, ball joints, bearings, hubs, steering components all seem good. The truck is pretty tight. But I'm persnickety, so I'll eventually be going through all this and replacing most. Any suggestions on mild upgrades? * Brakes - new shoes, everything looks good and stops like it should. Could stop better. Any suggestions on upgrades here? * Shocks - no complaints, truck rides like it should. Shocks look like they've been on there for decades though. I like Bilstein yellows, so the Suburban will eventually be getting a set. * Springs - quiet and provide a nice ride, so not much to worry about here. I'll replace bushings eventually. Also a zero-rate 1" add-a-leaf for the rear to correct the saggy butt. * Body mounts - These are on the list to do when the truck goes to the body man for the cab support work. I haven't been able to find a full Suburban rubber and hardware kit for a '78. LMC has poly, but I prefer the ride of the rubber bushings. * Wheels/Tires - Here's where I'd like to make an upgrade... I want to run a 31"-32" tire, but the stock 15x6 steelies stop that plan dead. So... 15x8 OE-style steel wheels with stock hub caps or a 16" aftermarket wheel appropriate to the late '70s. Thoughts/suggestions welcome. Wagon wheels? Outlaws? Rallys? My preference is to run the original caps, but tires trump wheels. BF Goodrich All-Terrains for rubber. EXTERIOR * Bodywork - The big thing is gonna be rust control/repair and an eventual repaint. I hate the idea of a full re-paint, because part of the charm of these old trucks for me is that they look like an old truck! But I don't see a way to attack the rust without a full spray considering how oxidized/crazed the original red paint is. I really like the look of the faded/patina'd Metallic Red, but I'm not super keen on it as a newly sprayed color. So while I'm usually a "stock, as-built" kind of guy, I may consider a color change to another GM truck color. The red interior will certainly limit appropriate choices. It'll be a while until I can afford bodywork/paint, so I have time to drive myself crazy thinking about color. Any thoughts? * Trim - tough to put original dinged-up trim on a freshly painted truck, so I'll probably spring for new shiny bits for whatever parts I can't clean up. * Rubber - truck could use new weather strip all around. Nothing is leaking horribly, but it's probably worth doing sooner than later. * Rubber #2 - there IS a leak at the windshield. There's no rust there now, and I want to prevent any from starting. Rubber around windshield looks good and is still soft, but it looks like there are places where it's not seated correctly against the sheet metal. It's definitely a rubber-to-metal seal that's leaking, not rubber-to-glass. Maybe an auto glass place and fix this? * Lighting - I'd consider a headlight upgrade if I could find an option that truly looks like stock sealed-beams but functions like modern high output headlights. Otherwise, relay upgrade. I need to research this... * Accessory lights - '70s-style KC Daylighters and fog lights on the front. Looking for a mounting option for the KCs that will let me avoid drilling the bumper. * Roof rack - a roof rack would be super useful for our family, but I absolutely shudder at the thought of drilling holes in the roof... Ditto a rear spoiler. * Running boards - I took the aluminum full-length boards off because I'm not keen on how they look, but there's no denying that they protect the lower body from road rash. Maybe decent mud flaps? INTERIOR * Seats - Only issue is the piping has cracked and the seam opened on the driver's seat. Foam is a little soft there too. Hoping I can restore it and keep running the original seats. * Dash - dash has two small cracks in the pad. I couldn't care less at this point. Everything else looks nice and functions as it should. * Doors - plastic/vinyl needs cleaned up, but everything is pretty nice. Need one window crank handle. * Headliner - the rigid headliner is low in the front. Hopefully this will just need to be taken down, re-folded, and put back up. While it's down I'll add some Dynamat or similar for thermal and sound insulation. * Carpet - good enough. I may pull back sections to add products for thermal/sound insulation. * Floor mats - I need a set and I'm open to suggestions. * Accessories - I need a place to mount my phone and a charge port. Maybe 12v accessory plugs at the rear seats for the kids and one back to the tailgate. Cup holders were taken care of with an aftermarket bench seat console. If the sound system is ever upgraded, it'll be a stock head unit retrofit with Aurora Designs guts by Gary Tayman... though the radio is pretty low priority. If I could find a vintage aftermarket clock or a compass, that would be neat. Maybe a tach or a vacuum gauge down the road... * Overall the interior is really pretty nice and I want to do as little as possible. Certainly not a full re-do. Again, part of the charm of these old trucks is that they look like an old truck. So. There. Now it's all written down. :) |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
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Page 2 and no picture. That’s probably against forum rules...
Got the three u-joints replaced and that reduced the “body boom” by about 80%. I didn’t attack the double cardan CV joint on the front axle. Seems tight, but it probably needs gone through. Also, we don’t have a driveshaft shop anywhere within 2 hours, so I didn’t balance the shafts. So the last 20% might be the CV or a shaft slightly out of balance? Or maybe these square Suburbans are huge, cavernous echo chambers and a certain amount of rumble is to be expected without doing some sound deadening? Anyway, the annoying “body boom” has been significantly reduced and I can concentrate on all the other noises a 41 year old truck makes. It rumbles pretty good at 65... I need to be able to drive on the interstate at speed now and then. Anyone have suggestions on things that appear at higher speeds? Should I be ok driving 70 with an unconverted NP203 in full-time 4wd? With the 29” stock-size tires the RPMs are spun up pretty good. Here’s a pic... |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
There are some things that you can do. They are a big metal box, and so some booming is to be expected, however you can cut it down quite a bit if you want.
Home Depot and other hardware store carry Flashing tape. It is almost as good as the expensive sound deadener that you can buy, but way cheaper. Put this on the roof under the headliner, in the doors, under the carpet, rear quarter panels, anywhere there is large expanses of sheet metal. It will deaden it and cut down a lot on the booming. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...3003/206495170 The other thing is to keep doing what you are doing, reduce vibrations. Balance the drive shafts, maybe use balance beads in the tires or have them balanced. Exhaust can cause booming also, make sure it is in good shape and exiting out the back corner, not straight back. Exhaust fumes can get sucked in around faulty rear window/door seals. Shocks and suspension bushings can also add to the noise in the cabin, make sure they are all in good shape. I would highly recommend replacing all the door striker bolts. From the factory they had a plastic bushing on them, over time this bushing goes bad and falls off. Now the doors rattle and add to the booming. I just did all 4 on my 90 Sub and it made a huge difference. Then adjust the hinges so the door closes correctly and does not bang or pop up when the door hits the striker. I also tightened up the rear doors (barn doors) and that helped too. I just drove my Sub this morning and it was nice and quiet. They will never be as quiet as a 2019 Suburban, but you can get them fairly close with some minor work. |
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Nicely done on the build plan sheet. Years from now you'll love being able to look back at that page and have it all referenced right in one post.
Re: wheels. I'm a HUGE proponent of the "stock appearance but wider and in manageable size" plan. Try Stockton Wheel. They will build you a set of wheels according to your specs. The series 20's look like they'll do the trick. http://www.stocktonwheel.com/heavy_duty.html Going 16x8 will make a world of difference in tire selection. 15's are ok for hot rod tires, but lousy in all terrains and E load range tires. I would spend the extra dough to get the right wheel. A solid set of rolling stock can make ALL the difference in your ride's appearance. 16x8's with caps. and a cool set of white letter all terrains, a nice level/lift and you're in business! Check out Stockton wheel, or even give Wheel Vintiques a call, I'd bet they would build you a set if you asked. Engine wise, check out Blueprint for crate motors. A buddy of mine just picked up their 365hp 350 and put it in his 70 C10. Has nothing but good things to say. Pretty hard to beat, fully dressed minus headers, 50K mile 30 month warranty for 4k... and it'll bolt right up. https://blueprintengines.com/product...tor-bp3501ctc1 Keep up the good work, you'll get that rust patched up soon, and be on the road before you know it. BTW that pic of your daughter behind the wheel is priceless! I'd frame that one! :) |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
Old65C10 - thanks for the continued interest and advice. I plan to do some significant sound deadening eventually but don't have the cash and/or time to dig into it now. That butyl flashing tape might be a good and inexpensive way to get something on the floors, quarters and roof (when I go after the headliner...) in the short term. Have you used it? The remaining 'boom' seems to be located in the rear.
I'd love to get the drive shafts balanced... I'm still searching for a shop within a reasonable distance to get to. Tires... when I can spring for new wheels and tires I'm hoping that does a lot to improve ride/noise. These 235/75R15 Toyos that have been on the truck for who knows how long may be a significant contributor. I may spring for a balance if it looks like wheels/tires are going to be way off into the future. Stock dual exhaust seems in good shape. Nice and quiet and exit at the corners. I could see how a deep, loud exhaust could contribute to serious cabin noise, especially with that large, uninterrupted expanse of floor acting as a drum head... Getting new Bilstein 4600s soon. Doesn't feel like it needs new shocks, but they look like they've been on for decades. Hope for a ride and noise improvement there. Especially for the money. Suspension bushings look ok... they're on the list for replacement eventually. Body mounts I'm going to tackle while the truck is at the body shop and on a lift for the cab and tailgate support rust issue. They're smooshed. Door striker bolts are an interesting thought... The driver door sags a bit and I have the pin/bushing kits for all doors and will adjust the hinges/alignment, but the striker never occurred to me. I'm not sure if the '78s had the plastic bushing... and the doors close tight... I am going to replace the weatherstrip on all doors and tailgate. Those pieces are currently in my LMC shopping cart along with the cab and tailgate supports that need replaced to pass inspection. Maybe I'll add the striker bolts too... Great thoughts all around. Thanks!! |
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I just don't have the constitution. Ha. :) |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
ShortHaul - Thanks, man. I like lists. I have lists of lists. I hope to update that post as things get done, but I think there's an edit time window...
I love Sweet Pea. That truck and your build is one of just a handful that I really can take inspiration from. You're doing a great job. I'm on the fence... Summit now has the 15x8 OE-style wheels from WV in stock, so I could run the stock caps with 32x11.5-15 BFG T/As. Or General Grabbers. Both are LT tires, but 'C' rated. That's about the only choices for a 15x8. (I see you're running those Generals... impression?) Or keep looking for a 16x8 6-lug wheel. 3/4 ton is so much easier for running stock caps on OE-style wheels and getting into an E rated tire. Appreciate the input. Lift/level will be a 1" zero-rate to take out the sag in the butt. And lift from +1 or +2 tires. Stock plus just a li'l bit... Hard to justify a new engine considering there's a new GM crate with 4,000 miles on it and still under warranty.... Eventually I'd like to put a 400 in it or maybe build a 383 stroker. I was actually initially looking specifically for a truck with a 400 because Pap had one when I was a kid. But for now I'm considering what I can do to wake up this brand new but very mild 350... Thanks so much for the encouragement. Looks like my body guy can get to it in the next week or two. Kids will be excited to finally go on an adventure. Time to start some memories. |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
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I just bolted the oak directly down to the raised rails, with an extra piece of oak about 6" long sandwiched in for a spacer. Drilled through both pieces of wood for the carriage bolt, and I think I drilled a couple of small holes and drove in some finish nails just to keep the oak spacers straight with the oak cross-rails. If your using or making a metal rack, then you probably need some flat rubber washers between the rack and the roof, for a cushion and leak prevention. But it shouldn't leak unless you are upside down in a lake or river :lol: I hear you about not drilling holes in your Suburban roof, but I just can't imagine putting much of anything at all up there on the roof and depending on drip rails to hold it. Maybe consider a small trailer or one of those hitch receiver racks ??? |
Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
You can check the tires date codes if you want to know how old they are.
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Re: Yet to be named... ‘78 K10 Suburban
The paint on that rig looks so good in the pictures that I hate to see where rust is bubbling through. I wonder if you can catch it at those spots and dremel it out like a cavity and then touch it up. If you did that it might buy you some time. Protect it with a good paint sealer and see how it lasts. If the rust bubbles occurred again, I would be tempted to go panel by panel and get each one in bare metal and get paint matched, even in a rattle can and repaint each panel as you go. Could easily look as good as it does now and cost pennies compared to a repaint. I'm concerned that your kids won't care about "adventures" by the time you get it back from the painters and you may have spent their college funds equivalent to get it painted.
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