The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/index.php)
-   Engine & Drivetrain (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=24)
-   -   Inline 6 - cam install question - 292 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=820951)

Asshat 04-21-2021 08:32 PM

Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
When removing the front cover for the cam, is it absolutely necessary to remove the oil pan? Or, can I just remove the bolts that go into the front cover?

Thinking about a cam upgrade for the motor, but I'm not sure if it is worth the trouble. Maybe I should just do the 4bbl intake with Rochester carb?

'68OrangeSunshine 04-23-2021 01:06 AM

Re: Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Asshat (Post 8911577)
When removing the front cover for the cam, is it absolutely necessary to remove the oil pan? Or, can I just remove the bolts that go into the front cover?

Thinking about a cam upgrade for the motor, but I'm not sure if it is worth the trouble. Maybe I should just do the 4bbl intake with Rochester carb?

Do you know the mileage since the last build?
If you replace the cam, you'll have to get fresh lifters too.
When I did it the whole thing was apart, so I could reach thru a cylinder hole and guide the cam end along. Do cams have their own bearing halves, like the crank and pistons? I don't remember... The crank was installed later, too.
I guess you could R&R the cam thru the front Timing Gear Cover without dropping the Oil Pan. Pull the lifter side plates off to change out the lifters. Pushrods should be good if not bent or chewed -- put them back in their same hole.
To get the head off in situ, you will have to pull the pushrods out, and 5 & 6 are problem children, as they are too long and hit the alcove of the firewall. * Solution is to loosen drivers side motor mount and remove passenger side mounts and rotate whole block 30* to truck's right. The radiator, grille, and maybe radiator bulkhead have to go too, to get a straight shot thru the front to mount the cam. You will need a new set of timing gears. Don't use plastic, get aluminum.
* Redneck solution is to make 4 - 1'' holes in the firewall 'roof' with an electrician's hole cutter, but that's kinda ugly and requires patching later.
Pros will pull the hood and radiator and cherry pick the engine out, so they can work on it in a shop.
In the pic below, we pulled the whole doghouse off, except for the passenger side fender and skirt, which we left for reference. But that was an engine swap. L6s don't like to lift out with the trans attached too.

Asshat 04-23-2021 01:12 AM

Re: Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 8912197)
Do you know the mileage since the last build?
If you replace the cam, you'll have to get fresh lifters too.
When I did it the whole thing was apart, so I could reach thru a cylinder hole and guide the cam end along. Do cams have their own bearing halves, like the crank and pistons? I don't remember... The crank was installed later, too.
I guess you could R&R the cam thru the front Timing Gear Cover without dropping the Oil Pan. Pull the lifter side plates off to change out the lifters. Pushrods should be good if not bent or chewed -- put them back in their same hole.
To get the head off in situ, you will have to pull the pushrods out, and 5 & 6 are problem children, as they are too long and hit the alcove of the firewall. * Solution is to loosen drivers side motor mount and remove passenger side mounts and rotate whole block 30* to truck's right. The radiator, grille, and maybe radiator bulkhead have to go too, to get a straight shot thru the front to mount the cam. You will need a new set of timing gears. Don't use plastic, get aluminum.
* Redneck solution is to make 4 - 1'' holes in the firewall 'roof' with an electrician's hole cutter, but that's kinda ugly and requires patching later.
Pros will pull the hood and radiator and cherry pick the engine out, so they can work on it in a shop.
In the pic below, we pulled the whole doghouse off, except for the passenger side fender and skirt, which we left for reference. But that was an engine swap. L6s don't like to lift out with the trans attached too.

Good points to consider, didn’t think of all those. Probably would be better to pull the motor.
Maybe I’m just better off doing the carb for now, and maybe pick up another motor in the future.

'68OrangeSunshine 04-23-2021 03:00 AM

Re: Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Asshat (Post 8912198)
Good points to consider, didn’t think of all those. Probably would be better to pull the motor.
Maybe I’m just better off doing the carb for now, and maybe pick up another motor in the future.

Yeah. That's a lot less hassle.

cwcarpenter98 04-23-2021 12:19 PM

Re: Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
I would start with some upgrades on the intake side of things to get better air flow through the engine. If you decide you want more, then you can do a cam or even full rebuild with go fast parts.

There's always the option of a turbo, but that gets expensive, real quick

'68OrangeSunshine 04-23-2021 05:18 PM

Re: Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
If you're not already aware of it, I would suggest acquiring a copy of Leo Santucci's book, "Chevrolet Inline Six Cylinder Power Manual.'' [C.] 2002, California Bill's Automotive Handbooks, Tucson, AZ, USA. ISBN 1-931125-15-4.
I have the first edition. I understand the 2nd Edition is out now.

Asshat 06-09-2021 12:01 AM

Re: Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
Does the head need to come off to replace the camshaft? I am thinking about pulling the motor, but not sure if I want to pull he head.

Also, I have researched a few camshafts and I can see from the rpm ranges, I am probably better off in the 2000-4500 rpm range. The cams with the lpey idles sound great, but their driveability decreases too; like those that perform in the 2500-5600 rpm range.


I'm thinking about this one, and upgrading to headers and a 4bbl intake manifold.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...make/chevrolet


Here's some from Summit Racing, all of these are hydrulic flatt tappet cams. Pretty sure they would work in a stock motor.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ft&kr=camshaft

Appreciate some input on these - am I crazy for even trying one of these?

geezer#99 06-09-2021 12:45 AM

Re: Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
If I remember right the pushrods on #6 can’t be removed unless the motor is moved well forward or a clearance hole is drilled in the firewall.
And in my humble opinion none of those cams match your compression ratio. Good cams if you don’t mind loosing 5 mpg and driving around at 3500 rpm all the time.

'68OrangeSunshine 06-09-2021 04:36 AM

Re: Inline 6 - cam install question - 292
 
If you don't want to pull the block, you could disconnect the motor mounts and rotate the block 45* to the passenger side. [But that's a hassle in itself.] The pushrods for Cyls 5 & 6 are not convenient.
I agree with Geezer, those cams are too wild for a daily driver.
I'm running a Crane Cam 260H, but Crane folded a few years ago, so no soap there.
It has 260* / 272* advertized duration, with .498 intake and .530 exh lift.
Notes state: '' 1963 - 1984 Cheverolet 6 Cylinder 292 cu in. Smooth idle, daily usage, off road, light towing, economy, also mild turbocharged.''

Have you looked on www.cliffordperformance.net
www.12bolt.com ?


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:05 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com