Ok Guys I Need Some Electrical Help On 67 Chevy
ok i can pretty much say i have a something bad going on because when i turn my headlight switch to turn just my markers on i get both tail and both front grill markers on. so when i turn headlight switch all way on i lose my front grill marker lights and get no headlights at all. i think i may have figured out the headlight issue the bulbs are burned out. but i still lose my markers in the grill.
thats just the beginning. my driver side brake light will not work and its not bulb also my driver rear turn signal will not work. when i check for power on the light socket i only get one element getting power too it. the other does not and that is when i had both turn signal and brake pedal compressed. also when i turn my turn signal switch both right and left my gauges go kookoo. my fuel gauge will drops to empty and my oil pressure gauge starts going haywire as will as my battery gauge starts doing crazy twitches. any help would be great. ive check for bad grounds and crossed wires just cant find problem. just thought maybe someone else has had same problem and knows solution thanks |
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UPDATE______________- ok i fixed the rear brake light and rear turn signal problem. So now the only issue i have is when i turn turn signals on my gauges still do crazy things and when my turn signals are on both of the left and right signal indicators blink as if hazards were on. i still have the problem with my front marker lights |
Re: Ok Guys I Need Some Electrical Help On 67 Chevy
'67s are different from the rest of the herd, in that the normal operation is parking lights on-- headlights off... headlights on -- parking lights off.
I had a '67 K/10 Suburban that had some wierd taillight issues. When I replaced the turn signal switch inside the steering column, it went away. You might check that out. |
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Re: Ok Guys I Need Some Electrical Help On 67 Chevy
Just went through the same light system exercise with my '66 C10. Replaced headlights, front and rear signal bulbs (1157 amber front and 1157's rear) and had a pigtail wire from Negative post to chassis to clean up connection on. Cleaning the wire Neg. post to chassis connection helped get the best connection and it brighten the bulbs up in my situation. Also discovered that if battery is low it doesn't like that when you're working on those lights.
With my headlights on front parking lights off and front signals still work. With headlights off parking lights on and turn signals still work. |
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Back to the main issue, good grounds are essential. I run an old battery cable from the block to the frame and another jumper from the frame rail to the radiator wall. |
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ok im a little slow on this one !!! the battery grounds to the engine,meaning the negative battery cable?? electrical grounds to body? so i should have a ground running from engine to body as well?? |
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now was this for headlights or tail lights? and let me see if i understand. you connected a wire to the neg battery cable and then jumped it to where on chassis ? |
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getting ready to go do some work on the truck and was curious if you knew what 66c10lwb was talking about when he was talking about running a piggy back from ground to chassis? and is it to make headlights brighter or tail lights or both?? i know both could use being brighter on my truck. |
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'68OrangeSunshine said and just make your own ground cable to the body and chassis. Let us know. |
Re: Ok Guys I Need Some Electrical Help On 67 Chevy
thanks for the help guys i have all my lights all my turn signals,brake lights,fixed the signal indicators inside on panel so they flash left and right not both at same time. did the ground as was informed too and bright as the sun. thanks guys now on too the next piece of the project . this is good though because i wanted to be able to get some drive time in for summer before i start to break it down to the frame after summer. now its road worthy
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