Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

I just submitted my order for a Boyds fuel tank to move my tank from the cab to the rear. After searching and researching I figured the extra cost was going to be worth it. Figured now is the time with the bed still off my truck and the wood floor still unfinished.

So, thanks to all of you my truck fund is now hundreds of dollars smaller. But I figure more weight behind the wheels isn't a bad thing, especially on a step side and getting the tank out of the cab has numerous advantages.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Might want to save that thanks for the actual install. Lol

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

I will post up some before and after photos but I figure with the bed completely off and it being non-efi at this point it's pretty straightforward. Just gotta make it all fit correctly and a bit of wiring and plumbing.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

I can see it now. Tank in the back. A Fitech fi system sitting on that 283 and some crossed flags fuel injection fender badges on it. Saweet?

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

When you are running new fuel lines, plumb it for EFI now.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

One thing at a time neighbor, one thing at a time. But you do have me thinking.

What extra would be involved to plumb it for EFI? Just a return line? I’ve not investigated down the injection path far enough to know.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

I'd be interested in seeing before and after photos of your tank, along with any information you can provide about running the fuel lines and installing the filler neck. I'm considering relocating my tank. Did install an electric fuel pump?

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

pj,
Here is a photo of the tank installed but before I pulled the bed to complete the wood installation. I didn't go with EFI just yet but ordered a set of pre-bent lines and went ahead and installed a supply and return should I ever go that route in the future.

I also went with the in the bed fuel filler since my truck is a step side and I didn't really want to have it coming out the side. Overall the installation wasn't overly difficult and the pre-bent lines fit pretty well but still required some tweaking. You can see the end of the return line capped off and just to the upper right of the tank. The connection to the supply hard line is right there as well.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Thank you. Your truck looks so nice. Where did you get the fuel line kit from?

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

It was a company called SS Tubes. There are short sections at the engine end but they come with all the fittings. All ends have the connection style for fuel injection but I got some Dorman fittings they convert to barbed. Not inexpensive but wrong with some stainless bolts and clamps and it was knocked out.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Thanks. I'll take a look at SS Tubes.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Any money spent upfront is going to save you a big headache.
I am a believer and have a cheap China tank to prove its a POS.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Is this the kit you got? Did you just get two of these?

https://www.sstubes.com/products/tgl...-kit-stainless

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

I have a Boyd’s tank with electric pump inside only been ~2 years now but NO problems at all

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Do you have fuel injection? I'm wondering what it would take to use the pump inside with a carb. A pressure regulator would certainly be needed.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

I got the non-stainless kit. Didn't figure I needed to go all the way to stainless since this isn't a show truck and regular steel lines will outlast my ownership of the truck. That kit comes with two lines, one 3/8"and one 5/16" if my memory is correct. I plumed up the 3/8" and then just capped off the 5/16" one on both ends. I did not install the last section of the 5/16" line, just capped it at the fitting. If you buy the kit and need a 5/16" brass cap send me a PM and I will send you one. Thought I was buying one on line but ended up with six so I have a few spares.

Oh yeah, I really haven't thrown out a big shout out for Boyd's either. Very great communication through the whole transaction, I was impressed with their process of providing drawings for review, and even more impressed when I got the tank. Fit like a glove and pretty easily installed. They aren't the cheapest choice but it was worth it to me in the end as it all fit like it should.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Thanks!

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

I placed an order for the Boyd tank with Aeromotive pump. I'm rebuilding an L31 Vortec engine that isn't machined for a mechanical fuel pump. I thought an in-tank pump would be the cleanest and quietest way to go. I ordered that line kit from sstubes. It arrived yesterday. I'm going to use Russell 611250 fittings to attach AN hose to the ends of the hard lines. I will install a bypass pressure regulator up at the front to utilize the return line.

I was confused about which ends of the fuel lines go at the tank end, so I called sstubes and managed to get the guy on the phone who designed this kit. He said the small L shaped lines go to the tank. Is that how you installed yours?

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Hmmm, actually no. Guess I put mine in backwards but it all seemed to fit pretty well. I got some Dorman tube to hose adapters that snapped right onto the hard line and let me attach the short section of hose you see in my photo. Guess I should have tried the puzzle a few more times before pulling the trigger.

If you are building an engine that will require an electric pump I don't think you are going about it wrong at all. I think you will be very pleased overall putting the money and effort in now.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

With the exception of the L shape at one end, the lines do seem to be fairly symmetrical, so I could see them fitting well either direction. The L section would get you most of the way up the side of the engine to the carb.

I may end up going with a Sniper eventually, so this setup should make that a very easy install down the line.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

I’m finally getting ready to install this tank as well. Just curious, how’d you get the nuts on the bolts that hold the tank to the frame? It looks like with the tank in place there is no room to get your hand or a wrench in there?
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

It can be done but the bigger problem I had later was when I put my bed back on the next to last bolts were tough to get the nuts on. Had to get my wife with a thinner arm to get the nuts started and then I could reach them with a wrench. Boyd's makes a mounting kit with threaded pieces you bolt to the frame that eliminates that issue. In retrospect, I would have tack welded the nuts to the inner frame or something. If I ever pull the tank I will probably do something to have a nut you don't have to hold with a wrench.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

You can make a piece of steel strap w/some nuts welded to it for an easier time with getting the hardware secured. Drill holes in the strap that align w/the tank mounting hole locations. Tack/weld some nuts to the strap. When you mount the tank, slide the strap inside the rail close to where they need to be. Get the bolts @ the easier end started while keeping the 'more difficult to access' end aligned w/a screwdriver/awl. The strap/captured nut means not having to snake your hand up in there.

Bed bolt access once a rear mounted tank is installed can cramp things. Sometimes a slight tweak to the areas w/a grinding disc (or slightly enlarging holes) makes things a lot easier.

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

Another possible mounting method would be to make some bolts out of set screws and lock nuts, with the set screw Allen wrench socket on the opposite end from the lock nut. These "bolts" would be put into the frame holes from above, and then the tank would be lifted into position. The hex socket in the end of the set screw could then be used to keep it from spinning while tightening the nut against the tank.

The trick would be getting the tank into position without bumping the bolts out of their holes. Boyd recommends placing rubber sheet between the tank and the frame. If the holes in the rubber sheet were cut on the smaller side, then the sheet could be pressed onto the bolts to help hold them in place while raising the tank. Another option would be to use push nuts like these to hold the bolts in place:

https://www.mcmaster.com/94800A813/

Re: Well, thanks to you guys I did it......
 

My new tank arrived today. I'm going to attach it to the frame with these bolts that I got off three L31 Vortec engines. Two of them attach the engine hoist bracket and power steering pump to the engine. They are 3/8. I will mount them with the hex tip facing downward in case they spin on me.