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the entire core support was covered in rust, I had no idea it was going to be this bad
Fun Level = -2.8 |
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I was bored (and $164 bucks short) so I decided to make my own tumbler
first I tried using my square sander figuring I hardly ever use it now that I have my orbital, an aluminum vice, a Folgers "decaf" plastic coffee can (empty preferably) a bolt or two, and the key to the entire operation a pot or aka dim switch from home depo for like $2 bucks plus 20 cents for the plastic case for it so here is Tumbler Jr. 3000 ver. 1.0 before and after bolts after 1 hour of vibrating using Walnut "blasting" media |
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well even after wiggling with that thing for 2 hours it was just nothing to write home about
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finally upgraded to Ol' Milwaukee 1/2 inch drill (man those guys make great drills but their beer stinks, ha ha) and got some actual "tumbler" media
so here are the results now after tumbling [ahem] spinning for an hour Tumbler Jr. 3000 ver 3.0 |
Re: Restoring Rusty
You could just drop them in EvapoRust overnight, then wash them off.
It's a chelation catalyst, and turns Fe2O3 (rust) into Fe3O4 (magnetite). The orange crusty rust turns into a sooty black powder that wipes or washes off, without dissolving any metal. |
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Phosphoric acid will also eat at the metal. EvapoRust won't. You can throw stuff in there for a week, no prob.
Oh, and it's a catalyst. It doesn't get used up by the process. Buy it once and just keep using the same stuff. |
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Once again, I agree with Rich. I used evapo rust when I started and it worked pretty well. It doesn't seem to do that great on stuff that's pitted really badly, but I guess if the pitting is real bad a part replacement is probably in order.
You can even use it on sheet metal by spraying it on and then letting it sit covered in plastic, using magnets to hold the plastic. That said, there have been a couple times where I wished I had phosphoric acid to use. Like for example, I ordered new rubber bushings for my core support from energy suspension, but they don't come with the metal cups and giant formed washers, so I've got to use the old ones that were in such bad shape and had to grind some of the pitting smooth. Couldn't find replacements, soaking them probably would have saved me some time. Right now I am looking for a less labor intensive way to clean up the factory aluminum accessory brackets that are dull, dirty and mildly oxidized. |
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Simichrome doesn't take a lot of effort, and you end up with a near-chrome shine. Used to use it on the Norton engine case.
Not mine, but that sidecover and those heads are aluminum, done with Simichrome. http://www.paradise-moto.com/pics/da...45-592x379.jpg |
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Glad to see you got your head problem solved w/o spending mucho dinero. Can't believe how fast you got them off that junk yard engine. I guess it's faster when you can simply cut hoses and lines and not have to worry about saving all the fasteners. |
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My real GM water pump #88894341 (also AC Delco 251-544) has 1/4"-20 threads. |
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used an old school trick on the radiator rubber pieces, I stuck them in boiling water, than spent some time with a nylon brush at the sink
I was even able to get one part number off of them for us 3966800, still trying to read the other one, I recon there are two types maybe tops and bottoms conincidentaly there is someone selling four of these on eBay right now for $67 bucks, [pronounced] Highway Robbery, LOL of course the ones that told me their part number seem in better shape, ha ha |
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As with your rivnuts you found the larger and thicker radiators used different rubbers. |
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so after literrally days of wire wheeling and soaking in phosphoric acid I finally got the top radiator support / core support down to bare metal, but even after that underneath I found some more rust so back in the acid bath it went
and after navigating around that white sticker I finally said forget it and wire wheeled it off I share this story because this is a massive undertaking every square inch of this front core support is covered in rust, so much more work than I expected |
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man I just had to see some results, something getting done, so I powered through and got the rest of the chrome bits painted black, also through in that UFO (aka the new bottom air cleaner) in there for good measure
so lets do a roll call on Chrome pieces (since I am amazed how many parts make up that front core support) 2 x headlight bezles (already painted) 2 x headlight rings 2 x grille moldings (upper and lower) hope I didn't forget anything, as I am almost out of that Adhesion Promoter |
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i took these pics before the clear coat went on as it was about to git dark, but you git the idear
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I'm lovin' that Matt finish, and we needz ta hit Pep Boyz again...
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Alright I was able to read the part number off of the other Radiator Retainer Pad as it is called by GM
Part Number 3966804 Also that first part number 3966800 has been supposedly superseded by part number 371189 carried by Summit for $9 bucks each not to be confused with part number 6264100 meant for da Big Block Chebby just trying to help folks, just trying to help |
Re: Restoring Rusty
Krikey, stop making it pretty and get that engine in there - I'm anxious to see the big hazer all the way down main street!
(seriously - don't stop; this is awesome) |
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