Re: Restoring Rusty
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Working on an 80 K5 back around 1998, I discovered the need for the offset extension to get the oil pressure sending unit to fit into the tight space.
Someone else must have become frustrated and installed the idiot light sending unit. I simply wanted the gauge to work so I bought what the local auto parts store said I needed...the big sending unit. After I could not get it to fit under the distributor I came up with the idea of using the elbow extension. It worked. I had no idea that's what was required. Again, I just wanted it to work. I had forgotten about that until now. I'll have use that info once I start but this old 79 back together. I too will be going from idiot lights to gauges. |
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Tan should be the fuel sender. GM wired the harness for both large and small fuel gauge. You'll have to change terminal positions for the 78 cluster. |
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Good lord you been busy.....good grief.
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Are you sure that's a v8 tach and not for a 6?
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Freq_Hz=(RPM/60)*(CYL*0.5) An 8cylilnder at 1500 RPM is generating a 100HZ signal A 6cylinder at 2000 RPM is generating a 100HZ signal A 4cylinder at 3000 RPM is generating a 100HZ signal |
Re: Restoring Rusty
If the tach gets pulses inductively from the #1 cylinder, then it doesn't matter how many cylinders the engine has. #1 only fires once for every two revs.
If you can drive at a known speed (like using a GPS), and we know your tire size and rear gears, we can figure out what RPM the engine is actually turning. |
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What I was explaining was why I know the GM tach is not a 6 cylinder unit... The needle would point to @2000 RPM on a 6cyl tach. @500 RPM too high at @1500 (1490) RPM on the inductive tach. :D It's a calibration problem with the analog GM tach drive circuit and it can be repaired. |
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Another reason you're right that it's not a six cylinder tach is that, all the six cyl trucks I've seen, including mine, are pretty basic, and are unlikely to have the full gauge package. |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Oil Pressure Sending Unit Wire
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OK fellas I was able to make it to the junk yards this morning to take advantage of the 50% off sale, although I did not find a radiator core support I did score some little things that I needed, some that are hard to find, so allow me to share
first off of a 1979 I pulled the Oil Pressure Sender Unit wire, that's right I could have made my own, but by pulling an original I get the right plug, the right color, and I get to see where it plugs into the bulk head connector if you just take your time with some needle nose pliars you can actually push out one of them GM connectors, like so... |
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still staying with the '79 I decided to see if I can find a similar black ground wire like the loose one in my truck and see where it bolts up to
I found a similar wire so I unscrewed the loop end and cut the other end where it splices into the wiring harness so I can graft it in properly to my own, score |
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then I moved on to a 76 manual 4 speed like mine, the first manual I ever saw
this is where I found the Holly Grail... a part I have been looking for, for almost a year and knew the aftermarket one I bought wasn't even close to the original, I also got an answer to where these little two hole round brackets go and en explanation how this super tough spring can span such a huge distance I give you the clutch pedal spring at last... |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Clutch Pedal Spring
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here is my old broken spring with one mystery bracket, the used replacement one with both brackets which I paid $2.50 for, and the silly thing I bought somewhere online claiming to be the proper new replacement, shame on them
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Headlight Switch Knob
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also from the '76 picked up the Headlight Switch knob and rod for $1.50, LMC Truck wants $14.00 bucks for it and I doubt it would match my black knobs, score
my old one gave up the ghost, the insides crumble and it just slides right off I like these small victories! How about you? |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Junction Block & Positive Battery Cable
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then I visited this '73 where I thought I could score the radiator core support, it looked all shinny and black, I was guessing the truck was recently repaired in the front, but... only to remove every bolt but one, you guessed it the rusty one under the battery tray in the bottom lowest corner, that's when I realized that although all the metal is there, the lip in the corner is paper thin, the rust has already gotten to it, so I passed on it, although unscrewing all those 50 screws was hecka fun
I did walk away with this junction block, but Greg we didn't realize you needed one? Well I sorta drove the truck to work with the wiring harness loosened up from the firewall and I smelled plastic burning on the way home, and then I found out it was my old junction block melting on the ol' exhaust manifold I also picked up a proper Positive Battery Cable ($2.50) with a RED terminal, I wich the entire cable was red, but I will settle for at least a red tip, that way if the wifey has to jump start me one day she won't cross the jumper cables |
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so yeah, six parts how ever small they may be I only paid $10.05 and had a fun scavenger hunt at what I call the Adventure Theme Parking Lot
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Awh, sh1t, I didn't know you were looking for that clutch spring. I'm nearly certain I have one in my parts bin I could have shipped you.
I notice your battery cable is for a side terminal battery. I know GM used the side terminals a lot, but in my opinion, they're crap compared to a top terminal. When the corrosion starts on the side terminal, it's hidden by the wire and you're not aware of it. Not so with the top terminal, and the connection surface area seems larger too. |
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considerin' these ugly spark plug wire booties for my too close to the headers problem, saw this pic on Craigslist today - please don't let me do it, they are ugly as heck
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They may be ugly but they work. I run a set on my 454. Only need them for 2 wires but it looks dumb unless it's a complete set on the engine. Also they look a bit better if they are not that tan color. I went with black ones.
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Thanks for the pics Gregski, very clean install BTW
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You sure did a good job, I wouldn't begin to know how to do all that! Al
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Congrats on the score. Now find me a core support as well. Good luck. Mines not only rusty but bent as well......
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I buy those braided heat thingies individually, take the ring out of them, and use them as a "TIG Finger" for welding. http://www.weldmarkuk.com/wp-content...ger-in-use.png |
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Or maybe I just ned to use larger female spade terminals? |
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If you have the 12004267 plastic housing the Packard 56 Female terminals are easy to find. |
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For the battery side terminals, I used two brass side post adapters with the studs on the back, but I used the ones for the double-wire setup, so they are longer on the battery end. I screw it through the cable so it just dead-ends in the battery, to catch all the threads, then tighten a nut down onto the cable. The studs off the back side give me something to connect accessories to, as well as jumper cables. I should have a picture here somewhere.
Here it is. I cut the ring off that held the old clamp bolt captive. The yellow residue is from some 3M weatherstrip adhesive I used to glue a cap on it at one point. But you can see how the clamping bolt is not all the way down, there is a nut clamping the cable. http://users.rcn.com/weyand/smalls/2...022407crop.jpg This is the part you want. Note the "LONG" in the description. That is because some GM side post setups had TWO cables on one clamp. http://optimatrays.com/viewitem.php?type=accessory&id=5 Anyway, this way you engage *all* of the threads in the battery, and won't strip it, and those big hexes are a lot easier to deal with than the small ones. |
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the new gauge cluster circa 1979 does have a seat belt light under the tachometer |
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Sunday Morning
to the tune by Maroon 5 Sunday morning, truck is calling Spin some wrenches, scrape some skin Clouds are shrouding us in moments unforgettable You twist to fit the part that wont go in But things just get so crazy, fixing rust gets hard to do And I would gladly hit the road, get up and go if I could That someday it would bring me back to you That someday it would take me back to you That may be all I need In darkness, my truck is all I see Come and test your skills with me Driving slow on Sunday morning And I never want to leave Fingers trace your every outline Paint your body with my hands Back and forth we sway like branches in a storm Change the weather (stripping), hold together where it bends That may be all I need In darkness, my truck is all I see Come and test your skills with me... |
Re: Restoring Rusty - 74 & 78 Printed Circuit Boards
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today we hope to complete the 74 => 78 gauge cluster swap
below for high level comparison I included a picture of the old 74 printed circuit board (top pic) and below it a picture of the old 78 printed circuit board the idea is to just give you an idear that they is different, we do not expect you to use these fotos to trace and compare the actual circuits also this is what they look like to Superman ie if you could see through the blue housing this is what they look like facing you the way the gauges face you naturally, I find that when you turn the cluster over and are looking at the back side, things are super confusing because right is left and left is west, you git the idear |
Re: Restoring Rusty
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Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. ~ Abraham Lincoln and so we prepare and prepare for this cluster surgery, just tracing these boards on paper and making these drawings was a great exercise to acclamate to what lies ahead I present to you the Anti Schematic Wiring Schematics Pic 1 - 1974 gauge cluster with mechanical oil gauge absent tachometer Pic 2 - 1978 gauge cluster with electronic oil gauge with tachometer |
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took my time and removed and labeled every single wire from the gauge cluster connector plug
here they colorphabliclly Light Green - Hi Beam Light Bulb Gray - Five Cluster Illumination Lights Black - Ameter Black with White Stripe - Ameter Pink - Positive Switched Ignition Power Tan with Black Stripe - Brake Light Bulb Tan - Fuel Gauge Dark Green - Water Temp Gauge Black - Ground for Water Temp, Cluster Lights, Fuel Gauge Dark Blue - Right Turn Signal Light Bulb Light Blue - Left Turn Signal Light Bulb Dark Blue - will be Oil Pressure Gauge once installed |
Re: Restoring Rusty - Fuse Box
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now we're playing with Power, no literally we're actually playing with... ah you get the joke
now Greg why in the world did you tear up this fuse box panel thing two reasons: 1. We had to A. castrate the dangerous Ameter wire(s) and B. graft the new Electric Oil Pressure wire 2. I was curious how all this wiring works and what's behind the fuse box, because starring at wiring diagrams just gives me a headache |
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