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thanks again |
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You don't have AC so you may want the option of running the defroster to clear fog off the glass on a spring or winter evening when the air is damp.
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Run copper hard lines with hoses at the ends. Bead the ends to keep the hoses on.
Maybe; 1 along the frame from the water pump hose to up under the heater box. 1 along the intake to the back of the engine... Or maybe both. 1 possibly 2 along the firewall close to the back of the engine. Copper can be soldered side by side with a slight bump up at the ends to allow two hoses with clamps side by side. You can buy formed 90° & 45° heater hoses. Polished copper could look interesting. Or you could paint em to make them blend. |
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Ladies and Gentlemen, today is literally The Greg's wifes birthday, needless to say the garage is off limits, so lets keep this on the downlow shall we, cause if she was to find out she would kill me, but I know in my heart of hearts that if she found out that I was about to try to prime my newly re assembly Chebby with a home made distributor stir stick with the cam gear still on it, she would be even more upset, so what I am trying to say here, in a round and about way, we are doing this here modification for her, wouldn't you agree, it's essentially damn if I do, damn if I don't situtation
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The Power Oilanator 3000 (Patent Pending) |
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Have fun preoiling.. It takes time a damn good drill.
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Nice. :thumbs:
Don't let SWMBO catch ya.:devil: |
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A caution. You got two valve cover breathers, and you like clean engine bays...
HOWEVER ... you *need* a PCV valve on one valve cover. Blow-by puts exhaust gasses in the crankcase. You can either suck them out with a PCV valve, or you can let them condense in the crankcase, in which case they will soon sludge up all the internals on your new engine. Even after 10,000 miles, you can see a huge difference on the internals of an engine with a PCV valve and one without. You can put it on the passenger-side valve cover, which would put it in the back, and connect it with a short hose to the back of the intake manifold or carb. |
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Then the mystery of what PVC to buy...Fram makes a variety of them, but its near impossible to find the specs on them. There's a company that makes a really nice one, but $130 for a PCV is pretty steep for me: http://mewagner.com/?page_id=444 I decided to just go with one of these from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-440308/ |
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The Greg had the Best Day In the Garage Ever !!!
so lets get you some updates... today was Engine Assembly Day - EAD check on out my Cam Opener (get it Cam Opener?!) |
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GM Chevrolet Performance Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft, Part Number 24502476
Old Cam Lobe Lift - - - - - New Cam Lobe Lift .260" / .273" - - - - - - - - - - - .290" / .307" Old Cam Valve Lift - - - - - New Cam Valve Lift .390" / .410" - - - - - - - - - - - .435" / .460" ... and after a liberal amount of assembly lube, the turkey went in the oven, (no cam bearings were harmed during this operation) |
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got the timing set on and the timing marks aligned properly
then the timing cover went on, we used spray on adhesive on both sides of the paper thin timing cover gasket for good measure |
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the nice thick Fel-Pro oil pan gasket went on next with smigeons of Ultra Black RTV gasket maker in the corners and in the half circle valleys in the front and rear of the pan
Fun Level so far = 11.6 Remember: not all the oil pan bolts get torqued down the same way the 4 corner ones are more bigger, lol |
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then we flipped her over right side up again and slid in the properly lubed up with assembly lube hydraulic flat tapped lifters
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the heads wen ton next and were properly torqued down to 65 ft lbs in three phases
Phase 1 - 20 ft lbs Phase 2 - 40 ft lbs Phase 3 - 65 ft lbs here's a looksie from both the front and the back of the motor Fun Level temporarily dipped to 10.7 (LOL) as the engine stand wanted to slide all over the garage floor under such high torque, lol |
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then when a push came to shove it was time to drop in the push rods
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the harmonic balancer went on, the crank shaft pulley went on and this thing was beginning to look like a long block
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nest it was time for the mandatory Vortec style intake manifold to go with our new(ish) vortec Cylinder heads - the V cut is different in traditional Small Block Chevy heads valley than the Vortecs
we used some nice thick Fel-Pro gaskets on the heads and a nice 1/8 inch bead of Ultra Black RTV gas maker on the China walls in the front and the back of the block, making sure some went down into the three pre drilled holes for better anchoring |
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next the brand new Thermostat housing went on minus the thermostat (not recommended for engine break in) and the Fun Level spiked back up to 11.0
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the water pump and the distributor found its way to the engine, and man doesn't it look great!
(The Greg was getting excited at this point, all that hard work paying off) check out how Awesome that crank pulley turned out, and how clean everything looks, I will post some before and after shots of the dirty engine compared to the clean one, man its so much nicer to wrench on now |
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put the valve covers on just for fun
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Headers go on - YEAH BABY!!!
Don't you just love the new darker Cast Iron paint on the headers better than that white looking silver I had on them before? The stock Vortec style spark plug wire brackets don't fit with the headers, the headers get in the way, no big deal but just letting you know. |
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carburetor went on just for fun and we began routing the spark plug wires, better to figure them out now than while the engine is in the truck
I think these are just the dime a dozen Duralast plug wires from Autozone, so I may buy another duplicate set and between the two sets I should have enough right length ones to route them all under the headers and around the back of the motor (plan on using the wire socks on them to circumvent the heat off the headers, plus those booties will be hidden out of sight) |
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put the 3" inch Mr. Gasket air cleaner on the carb, and I think it looks whimpy and flat as a pancake, plus I have enough threads on the sticky stick to go at least one inch taller, so I may just buy a new one, ha ha
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now you may be asking yourself why put the air cleaner on when you may have to take it all off to drop the engine in the truck, but I tell you it is so nice to mock things up outside the truck, and sure enough after adjusting my plug wire order one over, counter clockwise so that #1 points at the #1 cylinder (not mandatory, but I prefer it) my air cleaner hits the plug wires
so I think one of them 1 inch Phylharmonic carb spacers is in The Greg's near future, hee hee not only will it gives me the clearance I deserve but I think the fuel air mixture will be colder, denser, and more happier - I hear them spacers really make a difference, any of youz runnin' them? |
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then it was time to try something I've been dying to try - the Alan Grove style mid mount alternator bracketry
and I love where it sits now, and although it came with its own 3" spacer I prefer to use the stock one as it is more than just a tube it has a bracket that bolts to the back of the alternator, so its much sturdier |
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however now the stock 44.5 inch V belt part number 15445 is about 2 inches too long, so a trip to the parts house will have to be made for a shorter belt, as I do see they have a 15425 part number which translates to a 42.5 inch long one
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Looking great .
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Great looking engine man! love it when you can see a pretty sbc sittin there ready to go
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another issue I may have with the relocated alternator is the location of the electrical plug, I may have to clock this bad boy over to a new location or procure a new one
now there was a gentlemen on here who knew all things alternator and explained the part numbers of ones that had the plug in different spots, if you are that gentlemen can you give us a refresher, if not and you know who it is, could you PM me or him, thanks so much |
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Forum mates, one last issue and that's about all the problems I have encountered so far
My water pump is eating fan/pulley bolts like their going out of style, do you guys know if these newer water pumps come with METRIC threads or something? cause as you can see the fan is only held on with two bolts that made it in ok, or did they? |
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Well that's it for today gentlemen. I swear I want to cuddle up with that engine and sleep in the garage tonight, lol.
I will either take tomorrow off ( Easter ) or start cleaning the engine mounts, cross member and frame rails for some POR15 action. The last thing we want is for this freshly assembled enjin to just sit there in my garage, it needs to go vroom, and the sooner the better. |
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1) I ran a spacer not sure if it made any difference but the truck ran good
2) Retap the holes or up size the bolts you will want 4. |
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If you have a set of factory Vortec wire retainers, by all means use them. I have used them many times with headers, they are great. All it takes is some minor clearancing of the header flange where the looms bolt to the head.
You can buy air cleaner spacers for cheap available in various heights if you didn't want to go the carb spacer route. Did you set the valves? |
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As long as each lobe was on the base circle when you did it. I use the EO/IC method. Never have to pull the covers back off. |
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