Re: Restoring Rusty
Is that a clutch less fan? I changed the water pump out on mine a few years back And had no problems.
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Good morning and Happy Easter everybody (who won't be offended by that these days, the rest of you don't read that, ha ha)
So as I sit here on a Sunday morning enjoying my Kona Hawaiian coffee I figure I would do some Spark Plug Wire Math - SPWM. Last night I took off all my existing current stock AutoZone Duralast (I think) plug wires and laid them out on my workbench. Then I sorted them by length and measured each one, here are the results. 3 @ 22" only 1 @ 26" 3 @ 32" only 1 @ 40" I entertained both routes: under the headers as well as simply over them the traditional way, and you may have guessed it by now, the wires I need the most of are the 26" and the 40" LOL but here is a Fun Fact for you all - if we assume the standard 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order with #1 on the dizzy pointing at the #1 cylinder, there are two, and exactly two problem wire runs, #2 and #3 are opposite on the dizzy to their respected cylinder head, those be the ones requiring the longest run, if we are to run them neatly around the backside of the dizzy, using the 40" wire(s) if we only had two of them, ha ha, The Greg may pick up another identical wire set, nothing like buying 16 wires to get 8 good ones out of them, or The Greg could put his Bib Boy Pants (BBPs) on and make his own darn wires. heres a really cool simple wire run diagram, I like how they run the #2 and #3 wires through and across the dizzy instead of around it, now why didn't I think of that? |
Re: Restoring Rusty
google madsen hei dist cap
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crossfire dist cap
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now gentlemen, please don't t think I am obsessing over this, though it may seem that way, all The Greg is trying to do is put off the cleaning of the engine bay, ha ha |
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well my mission should I choose to accept it
... honey can I borrow your toothbrush |
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gentlemen last question I swear before I go transferring all that dirt and grime off the frame and on to my pretty self, ha ha
can I / should I drill some 3/8ths or bit bigger holes in the lowest part of the lip on this cross member both front and back to properly drain out all the oil, coolant, and gosh knows what else that loves to accumulate there, or will that cause any structural harm? |
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drill away you will be fine.
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so got the Passenger lower motor mount off, took a bit of doing first to excavate the nuts of these bolts to get our 9/16th socket on them, second to get under there to hold the bolt head and prevent it from spinnin'
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and the anatomy of a dirty Passenger side upper and lower motor mount, both top and bottom sides
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Your crossmember looks ten times cleaner than mine. Lol
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well guys and gals, The Greg wants to get that motor in this truck as soon as he can, that's why he is pushing so hard
under the premise of an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, I decided to cover as much of the engine bay and cab as possible with some thin (pronounced easy to work with) 2 mil plastic, to keep the crud that the wire wheel was going to spit out from sticking to my [ahem] patina, lol hey, when I pull this plastic off you won't be able to see through it, I guarantee it decided to dull up the sharp hinges to keep my own eyes in their sockets and keep the plastic from tearing |
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no hon, I have NOT seen your old comfy black gym shorts, what would I be doing with your black shorts... where did you say you left them... in the garage?
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alright, let's start a wheelin'
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maneuvering around the proportioning valve and the brake lines is proving to be a chore even with them unbolted from the frame, will have to come up with some sort of solution quick
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cleaned the passenger side motor mounts - noticed there is a slight difference between the passenger side and the driver side, the passenger side has the nut welded to the mount, the driver side does not
one clean set of mounts and one still dirty did they paint with that black tar back in those days, I swear that stuff was allover these babies - and it's a dirt magnet! |
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got the first motor mount in the paint booth for a coat of primer, I know it's silly not to paint them both at the same time, but I just had to break the monotony of wire brushing gunk off of things, I'm sure you'll understand
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and I went back to wire wheelin', I just had to clean the motor mount bolts as they were so grimmy you could barely get a wrench on them, not ACCEPTABLE
once cleaned, I shot some clear on them to prevent them from rusting (hopefully that will work) needless to say I care more about the engine bay than the cab, hee hee Fun Level: 2.6 |
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Dang dude ,you work fast .
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LOL I love your backyard paint booth C-clamp parts holder.
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so I decided to remove the engine cross member support brackets (not sure what they are officially called) after all, and I'm glad I did as there was a ton of stuff to clean up back there
just making a note that the thick washers go on top of the bolt |
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not sure you picked up on this detail from my support bracket anatomy schematic, but one of the bolts had the washer on the bottom and not on top like the other three
see the bolt in the bottom right hand corner maybe this is important, or maybe Sally the GM assembler was having a bad day, ha ha |
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Note To Self: Don't use your leg as a vise when wire wheelin'!
Second Note To Self: Please reset Beers without Injury counter to Zero! |
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set up the Summer paint booth configuration and made some hangers out of the wives coat hangers (remember the metal ones?)
seems like I am making more of these every couple months, I wonder where they are all ending up? |
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it was FREEZING when Polar Bear Garage opened today - ha ha
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got the driver side engine "bracket" (that's what LMC Truck calls em) cleaned up and primered, so the part that bolts up to the engine block is a bracket and the bottom piece that bolts up to the frame is actually the engine mount or motor mount as I prefer to call it ~ there learned something
borrowed that white barrel from Walter White, seemed like a very nice fellow |
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and then it was back to the grind, wire wheel a little, vacuum a little, aka rinse, lather, repeat
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but three hours later the passenger side was done
now I will probably go back and clean up that brake and fuel line, but the frame is as good as it's going to get, remember all you have to do is knock off the loose rust for POR15 you don't have to take it down to bare metal, so I think we've reached that goal |
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Don't forget the POR15 metal prep since you went to bare metal.
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Looking great, but what happened to all that carefully laid out plastic to protect your patina? Get in the way too much?
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Gregski, when you adjusted the valves, you rotated the motor and adjusted them all individually when each cylinder was off of its respective cam lobes right? In other words, you didn't just adjust all of them without rotating the crank around right?
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Exh. 1 - 3 – 4 -8 Int. 1 - 2 - 5 - 7 Get #6 to Top Dead Center Exh. 2 - 5 – 6 – 7 Int. 3 – 4 - 6 - 8 Adjust until pushrod will not wiggle using your fingers and then add ¼ turn. Adjusting until push rod won't spin may give incorrect setting. Only turn the engine 2 times. once for TDC #1 and again for TDC #6 |
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Adjust until pushrod will not spin between fingers and then add ¼ turn and tighten nut.[/QUOTE] This last part is kinda confusing, unless you have poly locks, your sentence should end with "then add 1/4 turn" I don't get the "and tighten nut" nothing else needs to be done after "add 1/4 turn"....unless you have poly locks. Not trying to give you a hard time, I just want to make sure the Gregski has a successful start up! |
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the wind died down so I decided to paint the motor mounts and [ahem] engine brackets
I had some Cast Iron paint left over from the Paint Shootout that I did to pick the right hue for the engine, and this was the runner up - by Dupli-Color, practically looks identical |
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